Choosing Which Rooster to Keep

@getaclue gave excellent advice and I agree that the APA SOP is a good book to have but if you can find the standard for the breed online, you won't need the SOP book.
So if I understand correctly, you have 2 cockerels and 5 pullets. Is that correct?
Noise levels only get bad for a bit in the morning when they all decide to crow at the same time, but probably not as bad as the same number of barking dogs that usually have higher decibel levels than roosters.
Will the roosters crowing bother anyone but you? I really can't hear 10 to 20 roosters crowing when in my house unless I have every window open. My coops range from 120 to 150 feet from my house. Two are even closer to one of my neighbors house and they didn't know I had chickens till I told them I did. Realize that a rooster's crow is quieter than weed eaters, lawn mowers. roofing guns, barking dogs, boom boxes, motorcycles, loud mufflers, train whistles and all sorts of other sounds of civilization. It is just that people are more accustomed to those.
Noise aside, I suggest you use this time while they are growing to start building more housing. At a minimum, you'll need one setup for a bachelor pad. One or two for grow out. And for even more accelerated improvement, several smaller units in the form of breeder units so you can identify which egg comes from which hen. That way you can pedigree all the chicks, track their progress and identify your primary breeders as well as all their offspring.
As was said, start weighing the birds and establish a spreadsheet or other means to track weights. The standard weights for Crevecoeur range from 5.5 to 7 lbs.. That should be easily within reach.
You'll also need a good incubator. Or two, one used as a hatcher so you can more easily stagger hatches.
At 8 weeks, your chicks won't be laying eggs for 3 to 4 more months. Since they'll be reaching laying age, it will be well after summer solstice (which is tomorrow) and they will be maturing at a time of year when daylight, vis a vis darkness, is decreasing the fastest. So if you want to accelerate your breeding program and not wait till next year for your next generation of chicks, I would plan on adding light to the coop by the end of October. Otherwise they may not lay till January or later. If you do so, put the light on a timer and add about 20 to 30 minutes daily light per week in the morning before dawn. Doing so, they should lay by the end of November. For a breeding program, you don't want to hatch pullet eggs. Wait till they get bigger by perhaps a month after laying commences.

Am I overwhelming you yet?

This all also requires that you keep them alive and in good health. The best way to do that is absolute predator proof housing and excellent ventilation. Forget what you've read about eliminating drafts. It is nonsense. A chicken can forage all day in frigid windy conditions. I'd call that a draft. Chickens can live in a tree. I can't keep a draft out of a tree.
What they can't live without is oxygen. Bad air can kill a chicken as easily as a raccoon in darkness. I've been raising Mediterranean breeds in buildings with huge 2X4' windows on both east and west walls with wind blowing right across the roost in temps to well below zero. The lowest was -19F and I never lost a bird.
As a crested breed, they will be vulnerable to predation, especially aerial predators.
The other thing that will help, and you can start now, is focusing on optimal nutrition - especially for chicks and breeders beginning a couple weeks prior to hatching egg collection. That will require paying special attention to amino acid and fat soluble vitamin content. Free ranging is OK but avoid the temptation to treat excessively, especially scratch grains. Feed is already mostly grain.
I can give you numbers for amino acid, vitamin and mineral content if you would like - after you've recovered from being overwhelmed.
 
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If there's a breed club, look it up and consider joining.
Your breeding goals are important, and may change a bit over time, don't feel bad if it happens to you!
In many breeds, 'show breeders', who want birds that can win at poultry shows, may or may not share your goals. Many of them don't care at all about egg production, for example, if the birds are pretty. If you want birds who actually can do what the breed was meant to do, that may not fit your plans. Dual purpose birds won't lay as many eggs as a production Leghorn, or grow as meaty as a Cornishx, but they should still be useful!
Mary
 
I wanted to add that, since you are starting with a small group, I would keep both roosters till they start breeding. I'd split the pullets into two groups and put one rooster with each till you get enough eggs hatched from those pairings to keep some genetic diversity going. However, that won't matter at all if all your birds are full brothers/sisters. Then just do what you can.
Another option is to eventually get a few birds from a unique line.
Avoid too tight of genetics. (full brother/sister matings)
 
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Looking for advice regarding choosing behavior over appearance, a common decision breeders have to make, I'm sure.

It's early (my Crèvecœurs are 8 weeks), but my giant Michele the cockerel (we are trying to get Crèv size up to French standards) is growing a huge comb already but isn't as sweet or refined as Cati, his runner-up, who will be a gorgeous and large roo.

Michele pinches me hard on the wrist every other day because he Does Not want to leave the tractor (which has a full coop) at bedtime when I move them. The other 6 chicks hop into my hand for the transfer.

Won't be a problem soon, but they're still going into the brooder in the garage at night. Thinking of changing this next week since the weather is stable here and it will be summer.

I'm very hands-on, and my acreage is Florida forest on the salt marsh, so my little flock can't be free range. Maybe my desire for super friendly chickens is clouding my judgement. 🤷🏻‍♀️ View attachment 2202936
What state are you in?
 
When cockerels reach the age where they're getting ready to assume roosterly type duties, they can get an overload of hormones. By this time, you should be pretty well set in which ones you're going to keep, and which pullets/hens you're going to pair them with. You may already have each of them established in with their respective flock. This would be the time you change a bit of your habits in the coop situation. Always walk straight up to the cockerel/rooster, and get him moving out of your way. Don't chase him, just walk, and get him moving away from you. Then continue with coop chores.

At some point, one of the cockerels may challenge you. NO, it does not necessarily mean it's going to be human aggressive. It means it's overloaded with hormones, instead of good sense. The very first time this happens, get a "rooster stick". It can be a broom handle, a long piece of 1 x 3, a sturdy stick. The rooster stick is not to hurt him with, but to increase your reach. Your arms are only so long. Immediately, go straight up to him, and tap him, not too hard, on the butt. You are training, not trying to hurt him. As he moves out of your way, keep the pressure on. Continue following him. If he slows down, tap his butt again. Don't worry about the pullet/hen commotion. Keep him moving out of your way, for a few minutes. Don't overtire him. Now, let him come to a stop. Is he giving you stink eye? Is he putting more weight on one foot? If so, get him moving again for a few minutes. Now, go into the coop area, like you're going to do chores. Walk around a little more, then leave the coop/run, making sure he does NOT try to sneak up behind you. Repeat this for about a week. Now, you should be able to go into the coop/run, walk over to him, and he'll move out of your way, then you can do normal coop activities. He should resume doing chicken things, like scratching the ground, calling his hens, etc. You should be able to walk quickly behind him, and catch him, at least once a week, then set him down, and he goes off, to resume his normal activities.

Once you've done this, at this age, things usually go fine, and you can safely do coop chores without concern. There should be no more aggression with one exception. I would NOT grab any of the hens, to check them over, without him being penned. I check mine over routinely. I dust them if needed, worm as needed, etc. There is always going to be that one hen, that sounds like she's about to be tortured, or killed when you first pick her up. Even if she settles down, the squawks can, and will trigger a cockerel/rooster. It's their JOB to protect their ladies. I always start with the cockerel/rooster. Once, I'm finished with him, I pen him up, so he can't get to me. I have a door between my coop, and run. It's easy to finish with him, then put him in the coop, shut the door, and continue with the females in the run. A dog crate works well for this too. Normally, because he's experienced it first, even when the hens initially fuss, and he's in "protect" mode, he will quickly settle down when the hen does, and he sees you're doing the same thing to them that you did to him. Once you are done, checking them over, worming, dusting, etc. and you are finished with the last pullet/hen, he can come back out. He won't hold a grudge.
 
CChris, most people breeding for quality, show, etc., keep at least 2 - 3 cockerel/roosters, and 2 - 3 pullet/hens per male, for breeding purposes.
 
Chicken Canoe made a great suggestion about dividing up the females with the males. Don't worry about them being so closely related for now. Start Group A, and Group B. From the ones that hatch, keep the best of both groups, but don't lose track of which group they came from. For that generation, you will want to try to put the offspring from Group A, with the opposite sex, of Group B. As you keep doing this, they become further removed from being closely related. Do NOT introduce new genetics into your line. That's a NO-NO. From there on, do line-breeding. Introducing new genetics, also introduces new flaws. It can take years, ans several generations to breed those flaws out.
 
The main reason I recommend keeping both cockerels is that a good rooster will often give himself up to a predator to save the flock. There is nothing worse than a poultry breeding program with no roosters. I never want to be down to zero which is why I keep at least 5 going into winter. Even if you are able to hatch out more cockerels, losing adult males can set you back as much as a year.
Although uncommon, your breed isn't as rare as mine. At least you can find a rooster if needed.
@getaclue makes a good point about avoiding bringing in new blood that is possibly inferior.
ETA
I missed the post that noted you got your stock from Greenfire.
 

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