Coop design w/run- can you review, anything else to consider?

[andreamunroe]

I’ve decided that modifying my old small coop won’t work, and am going to build something based on this design: https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/erinlees-chicken-coop.49143/

The coop itself is 4x8ft with an 8ft roost and 2 exterior nest boxes. I’m adding a 4x8ft covered run behind the coop, in addition to the 4x8ft mini-run that is under it. Here are some quick sketches so you get the idea, sorry for the quality.

The front is built using my old door, it will be on hinges and will swing up so I can fasten it and have really easy cleaning access. I’m also installing a poop board under the roost. I’m in Nova Scotia, Canada, zone 5. In the winter I will wrap the under-run in plastic to block drafts and will also cover at least one side of the big run. For ventilation I’ve planned a 4” vent running the 8ft length of tge coop on both sides, as well as a 4”tall triangle at each end at the roof peak. There will also be a pop door in the floor that goes down to the under-run. I will likely also put a window on the rear side that can be removed in the warm months. I can make those vents 6” if needed. Not pictured, but there will be a length of 1x4” board coming down off the front roof edge to block direct drafts, and the back vent is under the roof so very well protected. I’ll have a 12 or 18” apron around the whole footprint. Feeder and watered under the coop, additional roostsnof varying diameters in the big run.

Questions:
-how many standard birds can comfortable live here? I’m thinking 4-5 birds.
-is my ventilation adequate?
-These plans show the chicken pop door being in the floor to get down to the run that is beneath the coop. Because I will have a permanent big run behind the coop, I also have the option of making the pompadour in the back wall instead. Is either option preferable? With the extra square foot or so of floor space Valuable, if I make the pop door in the back wall instead? Or is the reduce draft from having the door in the floor preferable?
-I’m using a bucket with horizontal nipples and a bucket de-over for winter. Is there any reason this watered and the feeder shouldn’t go in the under-run in winter, if I close the sides off (aside from an opening to get to the big run) with plastic?
-Have I missed anything?

Thank you so much for any input and advice you can offer!

 

[crazy4ChickensNducks]

With looking at the coop you can fit 8, but the run can only hold 7

 

[rosemarythyme]

I'd say maybe 6 birds in that set up as is, though you mention having a larger run behind it? If they have free access to that during the day, then maybe you can max out the coop at 8 birds.

Venting should be sufficient or close to it (depending on # of birds), though I didn't math it out completely. Looks like 5 sq ft in the front and back + a little more on the sides in the triangle. Is that window is just fixed glass/plexi or can it be opened for more ventilation?

Water and food under the coop should be fine.

 

[aart]

There will also be a pop door in the floor that goes down to the under-run.

I would advise against this, just put pop door in back of coop.

The 4' foot human door is concerning....how tall are you?

How will you hold the main access door up?
Looks laborious.

Pretty nice drawing.....what program?

 

[andreamunroe]

Is that window is just fixed glass/plexi or can it be opened for more ventilation?

It's just a glass window so can't be opened unless I can find a way to rig something up.

I would advise against this, just put pop door in back of coop.
The 4' foot human door is concerning....how tall are you?
How will you hold the main access door up?
Looks laborious.
Pretty nice drawing.....what program?

-I'm 5ft and small. My current coop has a 2x2ft "door for me to get in an clean the run, haha- so this feels big- I can't really make it bigger because the run itself is only 5ft and descending to 4ft.
-I'm not sure about the coop access door. My original design had the hinges on the bottom edge so that it opened *down* to lay flat against the front, but my father pointed out that if I do that, I can't have rubber trim along the top that will prevent rain from getting in (if it opens *up*, I can affix rubber trim- like a bike tire sliced lengthways- to protect that edge). I might have to re-think this, though, because you're right- I haven't actually planned how to hold it up.
-Just Powerpoint, I don't have an actual design software.

 

[aart]

Your dad has a good point, you need to consider water getting into door opening, but.....
it depends on how you set door into opening, it should be inset from exterior wall surface with a drip flange on top so water sheds properly. I would consider splitting that door in half and hinging on the sides for a double door, but not sure of your building knowledge and skills. What is the original door made of? Got pics of your current coop?

-Just Powerpoint, I don't have an actual design software.

That's fine...at least there's a scale there to keep thing proportional.
I'm an old design drafter and one of my first real work life lessons came from a machinist who told me, "just because you can draw it doesn't mean it can be built"
Keep drawing, it's great way to 'think out' your ideas, and be willing to change and correct your design concept to fit the real world of building.