Cooptender coop door problems help needed

How do you know the old controller is good and blocking battery discharge at night?

It's possible, but not easy to make it run off of AC. But I'd be hesitant to tell you how do that without fully understanding what they've done.
Either solar panel/controller works fine with the fence, that's why I think they are good.
The main issue with the coop door is that the regular hook up through the battery connectors does not work. I just looked again and the solar wires (where we get to work the coop door at least somewhat) are not going to the power module. In the picture I circled them purple. The battery connectors are circled yellow.
 

Attachments

  • BB513632-2648-4481-B53B-708129861C38.jpeg
    BB513632-2648-4481-B53B-708129861C38.jpeg
    513 KB · Views: 6
e35a94d7-334f-4166-ae14-99179f9c1f40-jpeg.1632094


I think I understand the modifications they made to the switch unit. Starting at the top the green wire is a ground, the black wire is ac neutral (with the jumper between it and the fuse cut), the left upper and left lower are battery (to from dunno) but separate from the AC circuit and the bottom right red wire is switched and fused AC hot wire.

So with a fuse in place you should read continuity between the two left hand red wires.

With a fuse in place and the switch on you should read continuity between the upper right terminal and the lower right red wire.

Edit: the black, green and lower right red wire should go to the power supply.

JT
 
I just looked again and the solar wires (where we get to work the coop door at least somewhat) are not going to the power module. In the picture I circled them purple. The battery connectors are circled yellow.

If by "power module" you mean the DC power supply, I don't think that it is even used in your system.
 
Starting at the top the green wire is a ground, the black wire is ac neutral (with the jumper between it and the fuse cut),

I don't think it's cut; she measured 0 ohms between the two. I think the other one is cut because it read open circuit. I don't think this unit the way it's wired can even be powered by AC.
 
I don't think it's cut; she measured 0 ohms between the two. I think the other one is cut because it read open circuit. I don't think this unit the way it's wired can even be powered by AC.

If the green, black and lower right red wire as viewed from the rear go to the DC power supply I think your mistaken. I'm confused by which side was open and which side was closed as viewed from the back side. It doesn't make sense to put a DC power supply in if your can't power it with AC...

JT
 
If the green, black and lower right red wire as viewed from the rear go to the DC power supply I think your mistaken. I'm confused by which side was open and which side was closed as viewed from the back side. It doesn't make sense to put a DC power supply in if your can't power it with AC...

JT

Viewed from the back, going from the AC post to the top fuse bracket (both on the right) reads open circuit. Yeah I know it doesn't make sense, but I don't see how AC power is getting even to the fuse, much less the p/s. She said it's never worked on AC power.
 
The photos on this post with the wires numbered are just as I describe, 5 is the AC hot to the DC power supply and 2 is the AC neutral to the DC Power Supply.

JT

The hot wire is there to the p/s, but does power ever get to it? How can it when there's an open circuit between the hot AC plug post and the top of the fuse?
 

New posts New threads Active threads

Back
Top Bottom