Corn and Soy free......?

[hemet dennis]

For me, I'm more worried about weedkiller residue in my food than the altered genes themselves.

Roundup works by being absorbed into plants. The altered genes allow for the plants to be sprayed with Roundup, but survive. Why would I want to eat weedkillers? No matter what the label says, it can't be good for you.

I'll stick with organic, non-GMO food whenever possible.

The weed killer is sprayed when the plants are small after that the plants keep the weeds from growing by blocking any sunlight.

 

[bluerat]

I can't eat eggs off chickens fed corn or soy or washed in vinegar/acid washes (or most soaps) because it contains corn products. For about ten years we thought it was an egg allergy until I learned about products transferring over when the chickens ate them and the washes used on grocery store eggs. I still can't eat grocery store eggs but eat eggs off corn/soy free hens washed in just water no problem.

 

[Soy Free LIfe]

The only reason someone may be indifferent to GMOs is that they are uninformed. The first video reviews a study which had controls for RoundUp residue and the NK603 (GMO corn) grown without the RoundUp. Que the first video to 8:30 to go directly that part of the study, which speaks to the gene itself:

VIDEO:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=Njd0RugGjAg

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=9NWyQKGnYes

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=N6_DbVdVo-k

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=eUd9rRSLY4A


Although there are emotional appeals in these videos, there is also fact. What maybe one of the scariest aspects of the GMO predicament is the huge conflict of interest of Monsanto executives running the FDA and being appointed the current Food Tzar. The Movie Burzynski changed by perspective on the FDA.

 

[NYREDS]

The only reason someone may be indifferent to GMOs is that they are uninformed. The first video reviews a study which had controls for RoundUp residue and the NK603 (GMO corn) grown without the RoundUp. Que the first video to 8:30 to go directly that part of the study, which speaks to the gene itself:

VIDEO:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=Njd0RugGjAg

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=9NWyQKGnYes

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=N6_DbVdVo-k

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=eUd9rRSLY4A


Although there are emotional appeals in these videos, there is also fact. What maybe one of the scariest aspects of the GMO predicament is the huge conflict of interest of Monsanto executives running the FDA and being appointed the current Food Tzar. The Movie Burzynski changed by perspective on the FDA.

There's a lot of conflicting data concerning GMO foods. Another reason for being "indifferent" to GMOs could be that the individual has bought into different information than you have. Consider the possibility that someone could be as well informed as you are & that person may have arrived at different conclusions-I know, hard to believe.
If you're looking for scientific information youtube's definately the place to go though. Stay away from those pesky Scientific Journals. They may not tell you what to think, believing that you may already know how to think.

 

[hemet dennis]

Quote:
Well said NYREDS

 

[Lisa Harmon]

Found a local health food store here (Mama Jeans) has the ingredients for making my own organic whole grain corn/soy free feed if I wish. Comes to $1.70 a pound even with the spendy trendy stuff like the chia or black sesame. That's not bad for the few chickens I have, and worth it to me. Here's what I think I'll use, adapted slightly from Garden Betty website, and very similar to other recipes I've seen:

5 pounds oat groats, 4 pounds of BOSS, 4 pounds of hard red wheat berries, 2 pounds white wheat, 2 pounds millet, 2 pounds kamut, 1 pound green lentils, 1 pound flax seeds, 1/2 pound white sesame, 1/4 pound chia or black sesame, 1/4 pound of kelp granules.

I can lessen the oats and increase the wheat if the yolks seem a little light colored, or tinker as I need to I guess. Any suggestions about what I should drop or add and why are always welcome. It paid to go local this time, rather than trying to buy in such a huge bulk that I'd take forever to use it up. Small time operation here. Just 12 now, and will be down to 6 when my neighbor gets his coop built and can take his girls off my hands.

 

[Soy Free LIfe]

Cleverly written, but you didn't supply any links to any scientific journals. Please share so we can all have a balanced perspective?

 

[Lisa Harmon]

I found a really informative article about the various grains etc... I'm kinda digesting it a bit, hoping to tweak my feed recipe for optimal but affordable feed. I am not pasturing yet, though I want to as soon as possible. I still want to stay corn and soy free, btw. Lemme quote the article:
"No grain is ideal. Corn is the standard feed in commercial preparations...of the small grains that are available, wheat can slow digestion but is a good substitute for and is higher in protein than corn; barley is less palatable; oats have less energy and are fibrous; rye inhibits growth; millet is a good energy substitute but is low is protein...Alfalfa also provides pigments for yellow yolks and flesh if you don’t feed a diet high in corn. Flax seed is high in protein, oil and omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids, but affects egg flavor when it comprises more than 10% of the feed...much research has shown that feeding up to 50 percent of the diet as whole wheat will not affect the production rates of poultry at any stage..."

Their chart for layers shows grains being 62-77% grains, 15% protien, 4-5% fish meal, 4-10% alfalfa or pasture, 2% calcium and phosphorus, 4% kelp.
http://www.mofga.org/Portals/2/Fact Sheets/FS 13 Feeding Whole Grains to Chickens.pdf

Here's my muddled sort of questions:
given what's readily available to me, if I feed (oats 20%, red wheat 20%, Kamut 20%, BOSS 20%, alfalfa 20%, millet 10%, green lentils 10%, flax 5%, and kelp 4%, and 2% oystershell) will that be a balanced enough feed for good healthy layers? I'm also trying my hand at sprouting the feed, so I don't know how that will affect the nutritional value, either. I've kinda confused myself, but that always happens when trying to learn, I guess.

 

[Lazy J Farms Feed & Hay]

I found a really informative article about the various grains etc... I'm kinda digesting it a bit, hoping to tweak my feed recipe for optimal but affordable feed. I am not pasturing yet, though I want to as soon as possible. I still want to stay corn and soy free, btw. Lemme quote the article:
"No grain is ideal. Corn is the standard feed in commercial preparations...of the small grains that are available, wheat can slow digestion but is a good substitute for and is higher in protein than corn; barley is less palatable; oats have less energy and are fibrous; rye inhibits growth; millet is a good energy substitute but is low is protein...Alfalfa also provides pigments for yellow yolks and flesh if you don’t feed a diet high in corn. Flax seed is high in protein, oil and omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids, but affects egg flavor when it comprises more than 10% of the feed...much research has shown that feeding up to 50 percent of the diet as whole wheat will not affect the production rates of poultry at any stage..."

Their chart for layers shows grains being 62-77% grains, 15% protien, 4-5% fish meal, 4-10% alfalfa or pasture, 2% calcium and phosphorus, 4% kelp.
http://www.mofga.org/Portals/2/Fact Sheets/FS 13 Feeding Whole Grains to Chickens.pdf

Here's my muddled sort of questions:
given what's readily available to me, if I feed (oats 20%, red wheat 20%, Kamut 20%, BOSS 20%, alfalfa 20%, millet 10%, green lentils 10%, flax 5%, and kelp 4%, and 2% oystershell) will that be a balanced enough feed for good healthy layers? I'm also trying my hand at sprouting the feed, so I don't know how that will affect the nutritional value, either. I've kinda confused myself, but that always happens when trying to learn, I guess.

What will be your source of vitamins and trace minerals?

One thing people forget or do not realize when stating that they can make feed cheaper then commercial feed is the inclusion of specialty ingredeints. None of the "I can do it cheaper then any feed company" recipes contain probiotics, prebiotics, yucca, chelated trace minerals, immune system boosters, or typically any vitamin/trace mineral supplements.

Jim

 

[Lisa Harmon]

I haven't forgotten about the need for vitamins and such, I promise! Trying to figure out how to provide all the nutrients they need from the organic sources available to me. The kelp meal is the primary source of trace minerals in particular. I use gro2max probiotics/prebiotics already and I'm additionally feeding sprouts and microgreens every day. I never thought or stated I could make it cheaper, but I do still need it to be affordable. The only bagged feed available in my area (other than mail order) is non organic, gmo filled, corn and soy based. I'm trying to get away from those for health reasons, so my only option is to make my own. Puts me in a bit of bind.

I'm also looking for organic pre-mix or alternatives if the grains and seeds I can easily get are lacking any specific nutrient I will need to supply. What needed nutrients would be supplied by the home mix I mentioned, and what wouldn't, is what I'm trying to figure out. Do you have sources for specific nutrients my mix might lack, or suggestions for products I could add, what do I need to change? I really am trying to do this "right", and wanting to learn.