Crate training. UPDATE: Biting and growling in nonplayful way. pg 4

[Tigerjane]

A lot of what you're posting is completely normal puppy behavior. Have you ever raised a puppy before? Your dog is not a problem child, but a normal puppy doing normal puppy things. She will grow out of most of these behaviors, but it's going to take months. In the meantime, just accept that puppies have accidents, they want to play and explore everything all the time, they want to be with you all the time because you are their new litter and dogs are bred to be social creatures. She's mouthy because she's teething, and this will also go on for months. There's no need to make your dog afraid of you, and is probably the most counter productive thing you could do.

 

[Brindlebtch]

Nothing I have read or posted will make a dog afraid of you if it is done properly. I don't think the OP will correct harshly.

None of my dogs are afraid of me and I am pretty well known for having happy, friendly dogs that work well. Not all breeds are trained the same way.

A person I respected told me not to correct biting and mouthing in one of my puppies because she would grow out of it. This person owned and trained labradors. I regretted taking her advice for the rest of that dog's life. I realize it was not the dog's fault, but mine. Some breeds will outgrow it and some breeds will not.

 

[Wolfwoman]

Brindlebtch and Jamie are absolutely right on with the advice they gave you, I've not had any bull breeds, but I have had a wolfdog and labs and huskies and huskies mixes. The lab breeds will grow out of it, they are bred to have soft mouths and the biting for them is a puppy thing, not so much with the husky breeds, I don't use the lip roll (would have if I'd known about it!) but what I used to do and still do with any of the husky breeds is close their muzzle (gently at first) and say NO MOUTH - you can choose whatever phrase you'd like, but in time they got that the human skin was OFF limits and if they accidentally grabbed my and while playing I was NEVER bit down on and they hurried to get their mouth off.

 

[saxet]

Quote:
*** I would never recommend OUCH. Some dogs think that exclamation of pain is just plain fun. A good stern NO (and whatever expletive comes to mind)

is a much better option though.

2. Say "Ouch!" or "No!" real loud and clap my hands at the same time and discontinue play.

*** You need to do a bit more than that, I'm afraid. If she bites, you can grab her by the scruff of the neck with your other hand and hold it. Even (and most certainly) if she tries to bite you then. The dam would correct this 'crossing the line' behavior in the same fashion. Do not let go, until she stops or complains (not growl but yelp or whine)

3. Did the above two steps but put her in her crate for a few minutes.

*** I would never recommend you use the crate for punishment. You can get this done by just setting the boundaries. All it takes is for you to get a little more forceful.

4. Did the second step but instead of clapping I shook a can of coins. Worked for a bit but not to well anymore.

*** No, of course that does not work. Nothing happens after that sound, so why worry?

5. Bought some Fooey no-bite spray. She didn't mind the spray however my husband and cousin-in-law said it tasted awful and spent a half hour trying to rid their mouthes of the taste. They had to try it.

I may try another type of spray method that might taste different.

*** I would not recommend using gimmicks. Just lay down a simple rule and 'enforce' it. That does not take any violence on your behalf, but you are going to have to get over the notion that you cannot 'lay a hand' on your pup. Yes you can, and yes you should. No beating, but controlling at this point. You're not taking enough charge for this particular pup. You said she was scared, but she is also trying to learn her place in this world.

6. Tried offering one of her favorite toys to bite or chew after attempting to tell her no. She has plenty of toys of different kinds also to choose from.

7. No playing tug of war or wrestling to avoid incouraging her to bite.

*** 6 and 7 are good ideas if you do not want your pup to bite.

I haven't tried spraying her with water when she bites since I didn't think it would work cause she doesn't mind water at all. So I'm running out of stuff to try. She gets excerise and we have a large 12'X12' outdoor pen with shade for her when it is nice out for her to be in when we have to leave for a while. My FIL is around to check on her during that time. I'd rather have her in it than in the crate when we are gone just cause there is room for her to run and play. She also goes on short walks and likes to play chase around the yard. I'd really appericate any tips.

*** But for a pup, a large pen is not equal to the exersize that you have in mind. They don't really know how to entertain themselves just yet and part of that is why she comed in the house and wants to play up a storm at the most inopportune moments. She would probably really appreciate the interaction with her humans. Nice LONG walks together. And a puppy class (with puppy friends)
Do not give up hope. This can easily be fixed. While I certainly encourage my own dogs bite on me for a while, there comes a time when that is no longer appropriate or desired and a firm attitude is all it has ever taken on any pup that I have ever encountered. (and due to my job, that is a number that I can no longer keep track of)
For example, to discontinue play is often not associated with the just commited offense (of biting you) It is not true that all pups quit biting when a sibling no longer wants to engage. Some truly think it is great fun to hear a sibling yelp or cry and will only be more inspired to try that tick again. Just like kids, really! One size? Does not fit all. You do not have a problem pup. But I do think that you will need to step up to a learning curve for yourself and take sufficient charge in your pack. Before the pup grows in to a dog that will.​

 

[arabianequine]

I have a large breed pup st bernard and at 6 months now.....I am not so sure about grabbing at the scruff of the neck. I have found myself to do this a couple times lately when she is chasing the duck. Because she is loose and I just wanted a way to hold her she had no collar on. She wines and then like trying to kinda bit at me.....this happened today and I actually smacked her nose but she still got away. So when I got her away from the duck and got her to focus on me we went back inside the house. Since you brought this up I thought I would mention it I have been concerned with her trying to bit to get loose. If she did not pull I would not pull I am just holding on to her. I understand different breed, age, size etc. but what do I do now....I want her to stop bitting at me when I am just holding her. I have been thinking I should get her a collar she can wear all the time so I can hold that.

 

[SillyChicken]

if any of my pups tried to bite me if I grabbed the scruff of the neck they'd be on their backs instantly. I know alot of people think thats just horrible and unnecessary... but if you have a hard dog breed, sometimes you have to use hard dog tactics... and it's alot easier to get the point across when they're a 15 - 20 lb puppy than a 160 lbs meat head.

Just for kicks, put your pup on his back gently and hold him down for a sec... if he struggles like there's no tomorrow and will stare at you, you have a dominant puppy. If he relaxes fairly quickly and looks away, you have a subdominant puppy.

One of my corsos at 8 wks went after my face when she was eating. I spend alot of time with my hands etc in their food bowls, taking their food etc, when they're little.... trust me she didn't know what hit her, when I put her on her back. I've never ever had any further dominance issues from her after the one incident and she's a very hard dog.

 

[SarahFair]

When my GSD puppy would start biting and wouldnt stop Id roll on his side and stand over him and sort of making a growling noise to let him not Im dom and you are not to do that. Hold him there like that for awhile.
He doesnt even think about biting now as he knows Im dom over him and everyone else. If hes eating and I look at him just the right way with the right body language he drops what hes got in his mouth and will walk away.

If the puppy is biting and not playing whinning I think would just encourage the biting and letting him know hes dom over you. ..IDK though Ive never raised a bulldog

 

[CedarRidgeChicks]

I agree with Brindle and Jamie!! First let me say I am no expert/trainer but I have had pits and AmBdgs for 35yrs..that said and worth a penny!..you have an agressive/dominant breed..get control now..in the past I used a Firm "NO" and a rolled up newspaper..have had to use the method that Brindle explained on my AmBdg male that I have now..it was a challenge but he does behave on command..he is still a little food agressive .

I use harnesses too..I start off with the heavy duty nylon and change over to a leather..my dogs always seem to have a bigger neck than head until around 2yrs then the head catches up..but by then they are used to the harness and very large cotton bull lead rope. I can control them better too.

I do have all 6 of mine micro-chipped.

 

[saxet]

Quote:
I suspect the reason she 'bites' at you (puts her mouth on you) is more a reaction to something unexpected than anything else. You said you had started it recently. Do not let her get away with the protest. The whining part is because it is perceived as a correction. And if talking back to you (the 'kinda bite' as you called it) results in subsequent freedom again, she got away with showing you no respect at all and you're really not serious about the correction in her opinion. If your pup wants to chase, make sure you have a flat collar on her when she is out. You already brought that up yourself. That way there is more for you to hold onto. But I would certainly keep on handling her and yes, I would personally continue to hold her by the scruff, but next time, better prepared to 'take issue' with protest. Nothing dramatic. Start with scolding and if that does not work, you could for example lay her on her side or back. In all fairness though: I know not all dog owners are natured alike and not everybody sees 'offense' where it needs to be seen or can react adequately. So if you are very unsure about how to handle something, maybe go find someone who can help. I would be glad to, but suspect I am a bit too far away.

 

[Slinkytoys]

There is a wonderful book "Mother Knows Best" written by Carol Lea Benjamin. It is written very well (not one of those dry boring tomes) and will help you understand WHY your puppy is doing these things and how YOU should react to them. You can find her books at the library and Borders/Barnes & Noble. This author is a dog show judge and also writes mystery novels
Slinky