Day old ringneck pheasent survival rate?

Bruiserdog99

Chirping
5 Years
Apr 23, 2014
141
6
71
Idaho
Hello i just picked up my pheasants today i ordered 8 and they gave me 17/18 ( i cant count all those little ********)
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any ways what are the survival rate of these guys this is my first time with pheasants but ive done quail and chickens and haven't lost any chicks but im kinda worried. i have put rocks in the water the tempature is between 90/100 with a red light and have a good size brooder are these pretty hardy birds will i lose some? thanks
 
100% most of the time for me. I can't remember losing one ever really, but I'm sure I'm overlooking.
Sounds good, May want to drop the heat just a little closer to them, say 135 or so being available. They will sit in the spot that makes them comfortable but it's better to have a larger ring of warm birds than all of them crammed directly under the light piling on one another for warmth.
 
I think it all depends on where you purchased the birds.
Here are some notes on raising them from chicks
Raising Pheasant Chicks
Brooding is the period between leaving the hatcher and their release into a larger flight pen (about 6.5 weeks). A brooder house for pheasants should be clean, dry, resistant to drafts, and free of vermin, such as mice, rats, and lice. It can be a part of a larger barn or a building itself. The number of chicks you plan on brooding will dictate this. Your brooder house should provide at least 0.75 sq. ft. per bird.
Heat lamps are the simplest way keep the chicks warm. We use one 250 watt infrared bulb per 100 chicks. Make sure to use the ones with the red bulb, as it helps prevent cannibalism. Heat lamps should be suspended 18 inches above the floor. A brooder guard is used to protect the chicks from drafts. It is a piece of card board 18 inches tall and circles the heat lamp. A 4 ft. diameter is sufficient for 50 chicks. It can be removed after 5-7 days.
Chopped straw is the best floor covering. You can use wood shavings, but you must cover them for the first week with burlap, because the chicks will eat them.
You should use at least 2 ft. long feeders for every 50 chicks, and one 1-gallon waterer per 75 chicks. It is necessary to put marbles or clean gravel in the water trough to prevent drowning of chicks. They should be fed a 30% turkey or game bird starter for the first 6 weeks, and then you can follow feed manufacturer directions to mix in corn. When the chicks arrive, dip their beaks in the water. Inspect the chicks very regularly for the first few weeks, especially at night. If the chicks seem to be piling under the heat lamp, lower it. You want there to be an even distribution of chicks around the perimeter of the lamp.
After 2-3 weeks, weather permitting, allow the chicks to go out side during the warm sunny days, into a run the same size as the brooder constructed with no bigger than 1 inch mesh. It is necessary to put a top on it to prevent them from flying out. You must run them back into the brooder each evening or if there is rain in the forecast.​
Cannibalism
The first rule is don't let it get started. Give the chicks plenty of room and pieces of clover, alfalfa or lettuce to keep them from picking each other. Cannibalism is usually caused by stress in the environment, like improper temperature, a wet pen, disease, or poor quality feed. A inti-peck device or de-beaking is often used to curtail the problem.
Hope this helps you, Good Luck​
 
OK i haven't lost one yet
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. i should probaly put some burlap over the shavings im also gonna put them in a bigger brooder my next pay check. i use rubber maid tubs so im gonna get a bigger one. thanks for the help. im keeping my fingers crossed i dont lose any. and i might try the turkey starter. right now there on a 22% protein game bird starter i was cautious about the turkey feed but might buy a little bag and try it. here they were on Tuesday there a little bigger now.

 
If you have gamebird starter you can just leave them on that. Most people that start their stores don't carry that. You will have to soon move them to a larger pen because all it takes is one drop of blood and then you will have dead chicks. Always better to start with a bigger one and use guards to keep them together when you first get them then you can increase the size as you go without having alot of tubs around.
 
following as I just hatched a good many ringnecks for the first time ....they went into lock down on day 21, but nothing till day 24 then they all starting hatching at once, every time I look in the hatcher there are 2 or 3 more...up to 14 now and another 20 are rocking...
 

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