Design Ideas Welcome - Converting Play-set Into Chicken Coop

[CaptainCat]

We are working to convert this old Redwood play set into a chicken coop. Dimensions are: 4’ wide, 8’ long, and 8+’ tall (the 4x4s are 8’ so the total to the tip of the roof is 10’ish). I’m imagining a full walk-in door directly in front of where the first photo is angled. I’m also imaging a 8x16 run coming off the right side of the photo. Other than that, I’m playing around with where the nesting boxes should be, where to put ventilation (and how much ventilation), where to add windows (if any are needed), where the roost bars would be, etc.

I’d love to hear ideas of how y’all would convert this into a coop. Where would you position things, any unique ideas, etc.

 

[BobStuart]

That would make a great coop. How many chickens have you got

 

[CaptainCat]

That would make a great coop. How many chickens have you got

None yet, but I’m thinking of starting with 6. I’m hoping to have this finished by late spring/early summer.

 

[BobStuart]

Looks like it’s fit for six

 

[Happy hen lover]

How many chickens are you planning? Where in general are you located? Like I'm in SW Neb. What size chickens r. e. what breeds? banty , silkies. standard size birds.
Ventilation is very important.
The playset has great potential. I can imagine outside opening nest boxes with roost bars ( perches) on long side of coop so far.

 

[CaptainCat]

How many chickens are you planning? Where in general are you located? Like I'm in SW Neb. What size chickens r. e. what breeds? banty , silkies. standard size birds.
Ventilation is very important.
The playset has great potential. I can imagine outside opening nest boxes with roost bars ( perches) on long side of coop so far.
View attachment 3726830

Thanks for asking those great questions - I should have provided additional detail in my original post!

I plan to have 6 full size chickens to start, but expect that might raise to a maximum of 8 by year 2. Right now I’m thinking one of each of the following: leghorn, buff Orpington, Easter egger, olive egger, black copper maran, australorp, and ameraucana.

I’m located in super northern, coastal California (Arcata, CA).

Originally I was thinking nest boxes along the long 8’ wall, but I’m not sure there would be enough room to walk past. Whereas if I push them along the far back wall on the 4’ side there definitely would be. I saw a similar shaped coop that had them along the back wall, but it didn’t leave much room (or any) for a poop board under the roost bars (photo attached as example)

 

[Happy hen lover]

Thanks for asking those great questions - I should have provided additional detail in my original post!

I plan to have 6 full size chickens to start, but expect that might raise to a maximum of 8 by year 2. Right now I’m thinking one of each of the following: leghorn, buff Orpington, Easter egger, olive egger, black copper maran, australorp, and ameraucana.

I’m located in super northern, coastal California (Arcata, CA).

Originally I was thinking nest boxes along the long 8’ wall, but I’m not sure there would be enough room to walk past. Whereas if I push them along the far back wall on the 4’ side there definitely would be. I saw a similar shaped coop that had them along the back wall, but it didn’t leave much room (or any) for a poop board under the roost bars (photo attached as example)

Trust me and others on this! They will only need 2 boxes, REALLY trust me on this. The girls all use the one box mostly. They may change the favorite box but it's only 1 box for 4 hens. ( they like laying on all the eggs when laying. So short wall is great for nest boxed.
One major rule put roost bars higher than nest boxes EVER. They end up sleeping and pooping in nest boxes, bad news.
You will have a beautiful egg basket with that selection of breeds

 

[CaptainCat]

Trust me and others on this! They will only need 2 boxes, REALLY trust me on this. The girls all use the one box mostly. They may change the favorite box but it's only 1 box for 4 hens. ( they like laying on all the eggs when laying. So short wall is great for nest boxed.
One major rule put roost bars higher than nest boxes EVER. They end up sleeping and pooping in nest boxes, bad news.
You will have a beautiful egg basket with that selection of breeds

Good to know - I’d much rather only have two, anyway!

Would you then add a roost bar that runs the entire 8’ length? Or just a partial bar along that wall? Love this idea - had not even considered a bar going lengthwise.

 

[rosemarythyme]

8 should be doable in there but I'd do 4 and then another 4 a year or two later to help with more consistent egg production over time (assuming eggs are a priority for you).

Assuming you put human door on one 4' wall, I'd have 2 4' roosts on the opposite wall, as that gives the birds more landing room since they need space in front of roosts to land as they jump off. If nests are going to be internal you can put them under the roost with a poop tray over it, or you can go external with nests in a bump out.

Yes on windows, I'm a big fan of using natural light to encourage birds to want to use the coop and if you build windows with the option of being propped open that gives you extra ventilation in summer when its hotter.

Ventilation, you want to aim for minimum of 1 sq ft per bird above their heads (should be easy with the very tall walls) that's climate protected and can be left open 24/7. If you have hotter summers you want the option of opening up to 2-3 sq ft of ventilation per bird.

 

[CaptainCat]

This is great advice - thank you so much!

This may be a dumb question, but how do you weatherproof the ventilation? Just by making sure you have a long enough overhang from your roof?