I thought my earlier post would have made a logic point clearly.
There is no point in worming chickens if they don't have worms.
Doing a routine worming in the hope that on the off chance one or more of your chickens might have worms on that day just doesn't make any sense, not economically, not for the health of the chicken and not for the longevity of the effectiveness of the drugs used.
While knowledge regarding the life cycle of various worms is interesting and makes an impressive read, the common sense aspect gets drowned out in the noise.
Sure, climate and soil conditions will effect the probability of there being worms in the ground and will have a bearing on the probability of a chicken picking them up.
Yes, there are measures you can take to reduce the worm load in the soil the chickens peck at.
In a small run, parasite eradication is relatively easy, which is why the opposite of what has been written above is true. Free range chickens are at a greater risk of contracting worms than those contained in a run because you can manage a run but not how every many acres of land your chickens may forage over.
There are no proven worm preventatives. It's true that many chickens carry worms without the load being harmful. The problem is when the parasite load makes the chicken sick.
Hopefully an attentive chicken keeper will notice a sick chicken. Some may have sufficient experience to correctly diagnose the cause of the sickness and in the case of worms, whatever variety, administer the correct compound for that type of worm at the correct dosage. The wormer's I've used don't come in a one dose kills all worms format.
You need to know which type of worm you are dealing with to administer a) the correct wormer and b) the correct dose over the correct time period.
How do those of you who worm by routine work out which worm you are dealing with and which medication to give? Do you just hope say a 7 day course is going to deal with all types of worms and their eggs?
It's far more efficient to get a fecal analysis done, find out which worm you are dealing with and then medicate with the correct wormer with the correct dose.
Anything else seems to be like throwing darts blindfold.
There is no point in worming chickens if they don't have worms.
Doing a routine worming in the hope that on the off chance one or more of your chickens might have worms on that day just doesn't make any sense, not economically, not for the health of the chicken and not for the longevity of the effectiveness of the drugs used.
While knowledge regarding the life cycle of various worms is interesting and makes an impressive read, the common sense aspect gets drowned out in the noise.
Sure, climate and soil conditions will effect the probability of there being worms in the ground and will have a bearing on the probability of a chicken picking them up.
Yes, there are measures you can take to reduce the worm load in the soil the chickens peck at.
In a small run, parasite eradication is relatively easy, which is why the opposite of what has been written above is true. Free range chickens are at a greater risk of contracting worms than those contained in a run because you can manage a run but not how every many acres of land your chickens may forage over.
There are no proven worm preventatives. It's true that many chickens carry worms without the load being harmful. The problem is when the parasite load makes the chicken sick.
Hopefully an attentive chicken keeper will notice a sick chicken. Some may have sufficient experience to correctly diagnose the cause of the sickness and in the case of worms, whatever variety, administer the correct compound for that type of worm at the correct dosage. The wormer's I've used don't come in a one dose kills all worms format.
You need to know which type of worm you are dealing with to administer a) the correct wormer and b) the correct dose over the correct time period.
How do those of you who worm by routine work out which worm you are dealing with and which medication to give? Do you just hope say a 7 day course is going to deal with all types of worms and their eggs?
It's far more efficient to get a fecal analysis done, find out which worm you are dealing with and then medicate with the correct wormer with the correct dose.
Anything else seems to be like throwing darts blindfold.