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Discussion in 'Coop & Run - Design, Construction, & Maintenance' started by Eznet2u, Feb 23, 2012.
Thanks. Good idea.
Sorry about taking so long to reply but I just came across your post. Here's a link to a gallery of step-by-step photos of the way I build my tractors. It's not a 100% complete photo set, but the best I can offer at the moment. https://picasaweb.google.com/106401293287329474683/TractorBuild?authkey=Gv1sRgCM3A-YXT7rOvfQ The feed in the cans are simply whole grains: Corn, wheat, oats, and milo (sorghum). They were a part of my daughter's science fair experiment.
THERE's the chicken feed can holder I tried to make! lol I couldn't get the dang nails in, was too lazy to get the drill out, so I put a big rock in their bowl instead. Problem solved
Made a water heater out of an old military amo can.
Drilled a couple holes 1 for the wire and 1 for light socket.
Tied a knot for the inside and added some electrical tape to protect the cord.
Installed the socket and ran the cord through the other hole and put a tie wrap on to keep it from moving.
Added some wire loom to protect the cord.
And it works.
Got so hot I could not touch it. That was with a 60 watt bulb probably go with a 30 or 40.
Love it! What a unique idea. I think those boxes can be pretty cheap at army surplus stores too. Maybe try a chandelier tapered bulb w/ low wattage since the ammo box seems to hold heat really well. Will you set it directly on floor of coop or on a cement block?
Here is today's brooder feeder. I have some small ones already, but one is really messy, and the other is quite big. I need all the space I can get with a bigger hatch expected, so I made this little ones. I had the pipe, wood and screws, and was about $1.48 for each cap.
No glue, so the position is adjustable.
Chick position for little ones
More upright for the piggy sized chicks
Two self tapper screws holding the feet on.
I love it..... I used those caps to make some harness hangers for my horse once. three inch cap will Perminantly shove into a black pipe connector which is five inches OD. Screw it to a solid wall with self tapping screws and I could hang Hames with the traces still fastened on..... They weigh about fifty pounds.
Thanks Deb, was a cheap easy fix to a space problem. The PVC is 2" with a 1" hole. I may need to screw it to a ply base when the chicks get bigger, just depends if they tip it over climbing on it..
I think the ONLY thing better are those feeders you see at the feed store on the brooding bins made by either GQF or Brower..... example..... Galvanized brooders
How they are set up is the ONLY thing that goes in the feed bins is Feed and chick heads and beaks. There is a wire grid that sits infront of the feeders spaced just wide enough for the chicks to eat And drink but nothing else.... They either hang on the outside of the brooder or are integral with the whole construction....
With the feed and water essentially on the outside of the brooder its easy peasy to clean and or top off.
This is something I want to build into my "perfect" brooder.... LOL. ANd when I rebuild my coop I want to do this type of dispenser for feed for the adults. I found out by accident that my chickens can eat their feed through the chain link..... that was an AHA moment for me.
Though I may go over to the dark side and give Fermented Feed a try. IN which case a whole new feeding process will come into play. I am lurking on the Fermented Feed for Meat Birds thread learning about the whole process Fermented feed Apparently by fermenting the feed with a little ACV or Buttermilk as a culture you release all nutrients to be readily available. Cuts feed costs wayy down AND with the added benefit of boosting feed conversion.
And yes apparently you can ferment chick feed. When i raised up 40 Guinea Keets a while back I was going through fifty pounds of Game bird starter A WEEK. Half of which I am sure was thrown out with the bedding..... Little mess makers.... LOL.