Dog - aggression transference

They shouldn't even make it to the fence to run it. The behavior cannot be corrected once they are there and in the zone. Mine thought they could away with it when the deer would come close. After training, lasting for weeks and me always supervising EVERY trip outside, I ended up with this, dogs that sit and watch the deer, calmly.

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First, it was on leash. Every time. If they wanted to charge, they got a correction. We also had "idiot neighbor dogs" that would instigate fence running. They were never corrected. Didn't matter in my training, my dogs weren't allowed to participate. Now, we have a neighbor kid that teases the dogs. No. Told the kid, told the parents, they don't listen. Doesn't matter if they listen... but my dogs have to listen. I have the power to control my dogs, even if I can't control the deer, turkeys, squirrels, neighbor dogs, neighbor kids.

After they learned it on leash (took about 2 weeks with individual training, and then group training) then I would stand on the fence line. I was the one in the way. If they started a run, I was there to stop it, immediately.

During the training time, they can't be left alone out there. You really have to commit to the time and be consistent.

Now, months and a move later to a new situation (had to do reminders on the new fence line) I can put them out alone. As soon as I hear one bark, I go and call them in. They come immediately, because they have learned I don't play and I will come after them and I will get them. I am pack leader. Even over my insanely dominant female Shepherd. My corrections are fast, quick, and in a hurry. It's the only way to get the point across. Immediately following the correction everything goes to normal and all is forgiven.

There is no yelling and screaming, no knocking them around, no kicking, swatting, nothing like that. A simple correction would be non physical body blocking, were I simply stand in the way with a pointed finger at them, and they slink away to do something else. I encourage that that grabbing a toy and throwing it for them, to give them something else to do. I maintain my position by the fence line, I'm pack leader, I'll deal with it. I'm ignoring whatever is on the other side of the fence, you should too.

A more severe correction would be me grabbing the female by the neck, behind her head, and forcibly moving her. I haven't had to do that in a long time, she knows. I can cast her a dirty look and she'll stop what she's doing. The boy... never did had to touch him since he has a totally different temperament. Couple leash corrections early on and he was good as gold. He's also seen me get after the girl though, he knows.

Pack leader is a 24/7 job. You can't stay on the couch when you hear something because it's the best part of the movie. It's really hard when you have kids because you can't just up and leave them to correct dogs. But during training, the dogs require just as much focus as you would when you monitor a toddler.

But if you've never done the training before, you need a professional to help you. Corrections, your tone, your stance, everything matters. It all has to be consistent, quick, and the bad habits you have need to be changed, someone needs to be able to tell you where you need to make changes. Watching a couple episodes of the dog whisperer might help, but you'll still look like the people he's helping and not him, there's no such thing as becoming an insta-leader. It's a process between you and the dogs, and there are a lot of details. They know you as not being the leader. Which is why they're acting the way they are. So you have to undo all that, change their thinking of you, break their bad habits, and yours.

Left unchecked though, it will continue to escalate. Always does. I've raising dogs for my whole life. Mostly dominant and aggressive breeds. You really need to get the chow girl listening, she's right at the age where she'll start to elevate her pack status. She can't be allowed to choose her place, you do that for her. The good news is the male is older and a male at that, get after him, make an example of him, do the same to her. They can work together and listen together. The worse is two dominant type females of the same age, at least you're not dealing with that. I put 3 years or more between female dogs just so I don't have to deal with it even though I know how to.
 
The chow mix Molly has gotten less and less aggressive as she has gotten older. As a 3 month old puppy, when I first got her....any nipping at her by the other dogs would immediately start a fight. Corrections were immediate and solid and after a couple weeks she completely stopped. I think she was very insecure in her "place" and was responding by being incredibly defensive about everything. She is the one to stand at the fence and stare when she sees something exciting. She has a very low key personality now...okay, not about puppy things, but about protecting the property. Rarely, she will stand and do a very deep bark/growl if she sees something very threatening. Otherwise, she is Miss Happy and Crazy.

Frankie is the nicest dog ever. HOWEVER, he is very vocal and very territorial. He starts barking if a car slows down on the road in front of my house. I swear he can hear a visitor 12 miles away. Living alone, this is nice. However, he barks way too much and has zero self control.

As a puppy he literally had zero self control, zero focus and zero impulse control. I can remember him running the fenceline and barking as a young pup........because he ignored me I walked over to remove him and literally had to drag him across the yard on his back......he was like a kid throwing a temper tantrum. As soon as I tried to remove him from the situation, he just flung himself down and refused to cooperate.

So I dragged him across the yard on his back until he decided to get up and cooperate. And he did.

I did resort to a remote controlled shock collar at one point. At level 10, with the collar tight and extra long prongs to get through his hair, he would literally twitch from the stimuli but continue to do the behavior. It did not affect him at all.

He has been the most difficult dog I have ever had. He is an extremely NICE dog. Perfectly trust worthy with the chickens/ducks, cat and other dogs. Except for this extreme territoriality.


In the last 6 months, he has become much more dominant. Not over me, but in general. He doesn't like my other senior male dog playing with Molly....I correct him when he bothers my old dog. He has never been food aggressive, but recently I changed our schedule slightly and when he thought it was feeding time, I had the other dogs nearby....he snarled at them when they got near his dish. When I corrected him, he did the same towards me. That correction was immediate and ugly and when I did pour his food into his dish a half hour after all the other dogs had been fed, he immediately rolled over onto his back and refused to go near it if I was in the room. Haven't had any issue since. It was the same aggression transference....I dont' think he would ever consider growling at me, but he was so worked up about the other dog near his dish that it bled over when I corrected him. Still unacceptable but I honestly don't see that ever happening again. He is no longer fed first.


He has been through obedience training and was a perfect angel. Best dog in the class. He is not territorial outside of my property and so is the nicest dog that ever lived. It is just "protecting" my property that gets him all worked up.

I will bring the shock collar back out, put him on a long line in the backyard and see what happens. When he is in his barking frenzy, I get tired of hearing it and will call him over and then tie him in the middle of the yard. I call it the Time out Tie out. I guess I need to start immediately doing this when he starts up, every single time.
 
THAT'S ENOUGH! coupled with the tie out time out may work. Our present dog has a very dominant personality and time outs coupled with the "THAT'S ENOUGH" that precedes them are a very effective mechanism for getting her attention. Unacceptable behavior is addressed with a "that's enough" and since she hates the time out she usually will behave herself. (Except when she is humping my grandson.
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My girl is like that, extremely territorial but an angel out in public. You know how to issue the corrections and all of that, so the only thing that needs to change is timing and what he's allowed to do. My girl will bark all day if I let her, so she's just not allowed to bark. I allow a couple when someone comes to the door, she is guard dog after all, but when I say stop, she has to stop and no more about it.

I didn't get her until she was 5 months old, so I had to break a lot of stuff. Plus she is scatter brained, prone to get into a bad zone quickly, insanely dominant, and easily excitable.

So no excitement, nothing free, everything earned, even the sleeping spot. Order of food, orderly exit outside, no barking unless it's good play or your 3 allowed barks when someone is at the door. But I always watch the excitement level. Games will stop if I see it getting too excited. If you want to bark like a lunatic, then you come inside and go to bed.

Annabell is in the process of learning how all this works. She will sit and watch when I have to get after one. You know you're on the right track when your dog comes to you when it's in trouble. They know they're in trouble, and if they don't care or don't respect you, they will not come to you. For a long time, Ricca ran from me, acting like she didn't care. I knew I was making progress when she started to come to me. She was a hard nut to crack. 5 years in now, and she still has some issues.

If you have a dog that runs and hides when it's in trouble, you're not doing something right. The should come to you and sit down like they're sorry and life should go on as normal. But if they're not coming to you, they either never learned how to, your corrections are too strong, they don't respect you, or they plain don't care.

The trick is finding what they respond to best, and that can be really tricky on dogs that seem to just not care. Usually, food and praise is plenty on the normal submissive happy dog. Others need the fear of god put into them one time and one time only. Others, their whole life needs to be dictated to them from food, to sleep, to play. Ricca needs a dictator, Logan needs a bossy pal, and Annabelle asks "is this ok" over everything. Not this shoe? Ok, how about this shoe? Still no? Ok fine. Can I climb on the coffee table? How about the couch? No? Ok. I can't jump on you? How about if I just jump in the air and not touch you? No? Ok. So with her, I have to give her a lot to do that is ok, and think of things before she does. One of the worse things you can do is "No" them over everything and not give them something else. She wants to jump, a lot. She's going to be 100 pounds. So, she gets to jump, on command, for a toy or treat. Never just because, never on me, or company, or furniture. She's going to be a fun one later on because she is so bold.
 
My dog used to be similiar. She went ballistic when any dog came near her fence or walked by our house. A pain because our neighbors on both sides have dogs and many people walk theirs up and down the street. And I didn't understand why she did this because I had brought her everywhere to meet tons and tons of other dogs when she was young. I corrected her behavior, claimed the fence for my own. It didn't matter. She just wouldn't stop.

I think a big part of my dog's behavior was that she was frustrated because she really wanted to meet the other dog and the fence was between them. And frustration can very easily turn into aggression. And then they take it out on what/who ever is closest.

I changed my dog's behavior with help from my neighbor down the street. She brought her good, calm dog into my yard, about 50 feet away from our fence and stood there. My dog went crazy and I let her. Then when she finally stopped on her own (about 5 minutes) my friend came a little bit closer. Then every time my dog acted crazy, she would back her dog away from the fence again. It took about an hour but by the end my dog realized that the only way she was going to get to meet this other dog was if she calmed down. Dogs can teach each other much faster than we can teach them! Now when a new dog comes up to her fence she usually takes a play stance. Puts it right out there...what she wants to do!

I solved the problem with my neighbor's dogs by taking my dog to their side of the fence. Once they met they became "fence friends". But this was only possible after my dog learned that she had to behave calmly before I would let her greet another dog. GL!
 
Nellabean: "I will bring the shock collar back out, put him on a long line in the backyard and see what happens. When he is in his barking frenzy, I get tired of hearing it and will call him over and then tie him in the middle of the yard. I call it the Time out Tie out. I guess I need to start immediately doing this when he starts up, every single time."

You just solved your problem!!

You cannot allow him to "get into his barking frenzy" you have to catch him before it starts while he's thinking about it get him to refocus if you cannot, you must correct him immediatly.. there are signs, the eyes, ears body will alert you, then he acts. You have to act just as he starts to if you cannot re-focus him.

I have to ask, what do you think he really learns by stoping him mid frenzy and tying him out.. for a time out? What do dogs learn from a time out? Do alpha dogs do time outs in the wild? Actually, I think you're adding to his frustration.

He needs to understand it's not allowed unless you agree with the threat... and right now, you've been agreeing with it or not responding as he sounds the alarm.. If one of my dogs bark in the house, I get up and look. That generally is enough to shut them up on their own. After all it is their job to sound an alarm. But they need to stop once Alpha says it's ok.

Timing in correction of anyform, blocking him, ecollars, choke etc.. all has to be at the right time to be effective. It has to be consistant, every time, not just when you feel like it. If you allow him to start the behavior, you've already told him it's ok. At some point he'll think it's ok to escalate to the next level, jumping the fence, biting someone/some thing.
 
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