Dog training Question. GSD

I have 5 dogs 4 have that same behavior and it does not bother me either.I crate them it really is safer for them as well.They love to get in the truck in their crate and I don't have to worry about them getting hurt if I have to stop suddenly etc.But if you really want it to stop,you can always use the bark collar or teach the dog a down and have folks walk past etc.after the dog really knows the down correct dog for breaking the down dogs really can't bark well in a down position.But people really don't understand how much training is really needed.It takes time and don't give a command if it can not be enforced.BUt always make sure the dog knows it.And that means lots of training under distractions for long periods of time and distance from the handler etc. which will take time and dedication.I have 5 dogs and train in French ring with many titles under my belt.Wish you best of luck
 
if you are trying to correct the barking or the lunging the down would solve the lunging and then work on the quiet also work on teaching a bark command first then the quiet.So not to be rude but I think you can get the point I am trying to make about giving a command
 
good luck on the training hopefully it works out. My pit/basset hound mix does that while in the car. But it doesnt bother me since i drive a jeep with a soft top and when i go to town there's plenty of hoodlooms and pill heads who would love to unzip a window and take something. I think a barking growling dog works alot better then a car alarm lol.
 
I gotta say, my GSDs bark just as good in a down as they do in any other position.

This is correct, however Kellie has a very good point. A down, when taught usually doesn't mean "down + bark = accomplished command", just as down doesn't usually mean "down + crawling forward = excellent job". Down is down and you can modify that command to mean "down + settled behavior = excellent job and nothing else is acceptable". Down is my "go to" command for my own dogs and all of my clilents. I train it to mean specifically you down and settle. Whining, scooting, rolling, ect is not what a down is. You can modify behavior to mean this too, with or without a physical correction.

Barrier frustration is a behavior issue that can be learned. Dogs improperly crate trained often have barrier frustration because they never learned that the crate is Zen. Fence barrier frustration can be learned through fence fighting with other dogs. Tethering barrier frustration can be learned through being aggressed while on leash or tied out.

BF can also be temperament issue or lack of exercise. Temperament issue means the dog is acting out of fear, lack of exercise means the dog is getting an outlet by aggressing (its fun ins't it?).

MeatKing-- what training does your dog have now? If he knows the basics I would start by having him start doing all commands inside his crate while the door is open and you have a leash on him. Use food to reward or whatever motivates him. Then after he's got this down very solid you can bring the crate with you on a short trip to something like a pet store. Bring the crate inside, have him perform all commands with people milling about, do not allow him to bark, make his obedience fast and keep him intersted. Pretty soon you'll have a dog that focuses on you and his commands instead of the people. Keep working through this in different locations.

Then when he's got the crate thing down you can start by doing the same obedience in the car/truck in your driveway. He may put up a bit of a fight with this because the car/truck is his domain to do what he wants. He likes doing it. Do the same slow, methodical training as with the crate. In the vehicle at home, then parked on a road near home, then in a low-traffic parking area, then a higher traffic area, ect ect.
 
Not about the behavior, I just wanted to mention that dogs sticking their heads out a window are at risk of things like debris in their eyes or getting hit with other objects like a rock kicked up by the vehicle in front of you. It really is risky.
 
I think, it may not be a problem for alot of people. But I want to bring dog to daycare, to get kids, to school to get kids.. Without scarring other kids.
One of DD, best friends is afraid of dogs, this would not help him at all.. Plus he's 100 pounds, lunging at windows is just not safe..
All my dogs are aggressive acting in my vehicle, and sometimes when they are in crates elsewhere. They are also all very friendly and sociable when outside the crate or the vehicle.

I travel alone quite often, and I do not correct my dogs for this behavior except that they are to get quiet when I ask.

Like any behavior, you can have extremes, and often the extremes are not good. Often these are dogs of shallow or incorrect temperament, and may need behavior modification training.

For me and my dogs, this is not a problem behavior. For others, it might be.
 
Thank-you for your response, Yes it will take alot of time/training. But it will be worth it:)
For us, he's only 3.

Today for instance, I came home after work. Got garbage for dump, picked up DD 6 at school, went to grocery store, and Canadian tire. Stopped on a trail, and did a "quick geocache. Picked up other DD 3 at daycare. Went to dump.
My old dog, would've came with us. And enjoyed the off leash run at the park. I left him at home, cause dealing with the pysco is too much at all these public places..

Maybe I should just crate him, but then he can't look out windows..
I have 5 dogs 4 have that same behavior and it does not bother me either.I crate them it really is safer for them as well.They love to get in the truck in their crate and I don't have to worry about them getting hurt if I have to stop suddenly etc.But if you really want it to stop,you can always use the bark collar or teach the dog a down and have folks walk past etc.after the dog really knows the down correct dog for breaking the down dogs really can't bark well in a down position.But people really don't understand how much training is really needed.It takes time and don't give a command if it can not be enforced.BUt always make sure the dog knows it.And that means lots of training under distractions for long periods of time and distance from the handler etc. which will take time and dedication.I have 5 dogs and train in French ring with many titles under my belt.Wish you best of luck
 
Yeah, Thank-you so much Jamie

I will work on getting another crate, just for van. Then start on training as you described :)

He knows his basic commands, or what I think is basic. Sit, stay come, down. Heel, Shake a paw, other paw.. Kisses. And of course, he will fetch his ball for hours.. He's good on leash, after dog trainer this summer.. Walks like a dream now.. He even did some of the agilty things, at trainers house. Without being prompted..

I will try this Jamie, Thank-you so much!!!
This is correct, however Kellie has a very good point. A down, when taught usually doesn't mean "down + bark = accomplished command", just as down doesn't usually mean "down + crawling forward = excellent job". Down is down and you can modify that command to mean "down + settled behavior = excellent job and nothing else is acceptable". Down is my "go to" command for my own dogs and all of my clilents. I train it to mean specifically you down and settle. Whining, scooting, rolling, ect is not what a down is. You can modify behavior to mean this too, with or without a physical correction.

Barrier frustration is a behavior issue that can be learned. Dogs improperly crate trained often have barrier frustration because they never learned that the crate is Zen. Fence barrier frustration can be learned through fence fighting with other dogs. Tethering barrier frustration can be learned through being aggressed while on leash or tied out.

BF can also be temperament issue or lack of exercise. Temperament issue means the dog is acting out of fear, lack of exercise means the dog is getting an outlet by aggressing (its fun ins't it?).

MeatKing-- what training does your dog have now? If he knows the basics I would start by having him start doing all commands inside his crate while the door is open and you have a leash on him. Use food to reward or whatever motivates him. Then after he's got this down very solid you can bring the crate with you on a short trip to something like a pet store. Bring the crate inside, have him perform all commands with people milling about, do not allow him to bark, make his obedience fast and keep him intersted. Pretty soon you'll have a dog that focuses on you and his commands instead of the people. Keep working through this in different locations.

Then when he's got the crate thing down you can start by doing the same obedience in the car/truck in your driveway. He may put up a bit of a fight with this because the car/truck is his domain to do what he wants. He likes doing it. Do the same slow, methodical training as with the crate. In the vehicle at home, then parked on a road near home, then in a low-traffic parking area, then a higher traffic area, ect ect.
 
Yes, I was waiting for someone to point this out. My old dog, had an emergancy eye surgery to take a small rock out.. We are careful about where we do this now.. IE, not down a dirt road, following closely behind someone..
Thank-you for mentioning it, as some people may not know!!
Not about the behavior, I just wanted to mention that dogs sticking their heads out a window are at risk of things like debris in their eyes or getting hit with other objects like a rock kicked up by the vehicle in front of you. It really is risky.
 

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