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Which one do you guys think is best??? Be honest and critique me.
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MysteryChicken said:
I'm thinking about swapping out for my old incubator soon. This defective one is a waste of money.
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Are you sure it’s defective? Mine varied a lot at first. It can take a day or two or more to get stable. Also do you calibrated hygrometer and thermometers in it? I thought mine was defective at first too until I put calibrated things in it. Also these plastic ones sometimes vary more than the styrofoam ones. Not sure why, maybe doesn’t hold heat as well, but mine varied a lot based on the room it was in.
 
ButtonHoarder said:
Tysm! I will not be getting one tomorrow, it’ll be at least 2 weeks possibly more. Yup they’ll be pets. I probably will get them from her. We have a cage, it just needs a little fixing.
Thanks so much for all the info! I’ll talk more later & keep you posted!
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You're welcome!
Just so you know, they'll grow out of a cage pretty quickly. As babies they have a ton of energy and need space to exercise. Otherwise, they'll have lots of pent up energy which may turn into aggression. That's why a lot of caged bunnies are aggressive.
You can definitely use a large cage as a homebase, but since they're babies and it's harder to keep them safe while free roaming you should really get a playpen to attach to the cage.
You could have it setup like this (though this is with NIC grids instead of a pen)
Screenshot_20210304-100154_Google.jpg


That way you'll also have space for a large enough litter box and hay rack. The hay racks they sell at Petco for cages are just way too tiny. They don't provide enough hay for bunnies.
A lot of people just have them eat hay from the litter boxs. Rabbits naturally eat while going to the bathroom. Having lots of hay in the litter box will entice them to use it. Be sure not to get cat litter. It has clay in it which is very harmful in eaten. It can easily kill your bunnies. Instead get paper based litter.
For the litter box use a puppy pad to line the bottom (cut off the plastic edges so they won't chew it), then spread a layer of litter, and lastly add a bunch of hay to the back. It's better to have more hay than litter.

A few things this pen (pictured) is missing:

  • A bunny safe rug. This will keep them from slipping around and can prevent sore hocks.
  • More hidey houses.
  • Toys
  • A food and water dish


Here's an example of a great bunny pen
Screenshot_20210304-101736_Pinterest.jpg

Notice how it includes:
  • A big litter box
  • Lots of hay
  • A food and water dish
  • Rugs
  • Lots of toys
  • Hidey houses
  • A big space for bunnies to exercise
The litter box in this picture was a cage.

Once they are older you can even free roam them 24/7, just like a dog or cat. This is GREAT for bunnies as it allows them more freedom to exercise, explore, and bind with you. All you need to do if bunny proof a bit.
Some people just free roam in one room, or parts of a house, while other let their bunnies have free range of the whole house.
Lennon the Bunny on YouTube has tons of great videos on everything bunny. Her rabbit, Lennon, is completely free roamed. She's a very happy and healthy bunny because of this.


Since you'll be getting babies their diet will consist of unlimited Alfalfa hay, unlimted alfalfa based pellets, and once they're 3 months old you can introduce greens.

Although its often recommended to feed unlimted pellets, just be aware that bunnies prefer pellets over hay. If you notice they are not eating hay you should feed less pellets.
Hay is very important for bunnies. It is crucial for their digestive system and helps to wear down their teeth.
If they are still uninterested in hay you can get some dried herbs and mix it in the fresh hay. Sometimes even just mixing the hay around will help it smell better to them and offer new pieces.

Once they are 6 months old you should transition them to adult food and you can start introducing treats.

Here's a great article on baby bunny diets
https://bunnylady.com/young-rabbit-diet/
 

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