Farming and Homesteading Heritage Poultry

Thank you Matt for that "long-winded" reply.  I don't think it was long-winded though.  You just explain things very well and that is what I need.  So many people have been in this for so long that they assume that everybody else knows exactly what they mean as they speed over a subject or course of events.

I will be taking notes on this so if there are some other long time breeders that would like to chime in on this discussion, I wouldn't mind at all, in fact, I'd really appreciate it.
X2 I really appreciate the "long-winded" explanation.
 
In the breeding system he is talking about that's not that many at all. You use 3-4 different clans and rotate the males each year, it allows you to maintain genetic diversity and a closed flock. Let me copy and paste a simplified version.
----------------------
Basics of Rotational Line Breeding in chickens

Using this method you can indefinitely breed a line of chickens without introducing new blood.

You need 4 "clans" minimum, for simplicity sake here I will assign each one a color: Red, Blue, White, Green. Each clan needs at least one male, and anywhere from one to ten hens depending on your needs. It is nice to have a back-up male of each clan in case of illness or other unexpected loss, but not needed.

Mark your birds with colored leg bands and when it's time to breed and hatch divide them by color for year one. Red male with Red Female, Blue with Blue and so on and so on. When the chicks hatch, find a way to mark them so you know what "clan" they came from. (nail polish works on chicks and then colored leg bands as they get older)

Year two, pick your best breeders that have the qualities you want (this is another discussion) and put the hens in their pens. Now put the Red males in the with the Blue hens, the Blue Males in with the White hens, and the White Males in with the Green Hens, Green males in with Red hens. Mark the chicks with the "clan" color of the hens.

Year three, select your breeders. Red males go with White hens, Blue males with Green Hens, White males with Red hens, Green males with Blue hens.
Again, mark the offspring with the color of the hens.

Repeat this every year, always moving the males one pen down the line, and always marking the chicks with the "clan" color of the hens.
How would you go from a trio or quad, to a rotational line breeding program?

Thanks, colburg
 
I love my copper marans and cayugas but things don't always go to plan smh!
http://sterlingcenterfarm.com/Marans/hens.htm is in NY and she has lovely Marans.

Personally, my favorite Back Copper Marans breeder is Ernie Haire at 2xl Marans.
http://marans2xl.com/awards.html
He breeds year round, sells eggs and chicks and grown birds. Shows extensively
and wins consistently in quality competition. If you want to upgrade your stock
or add a top show quality flock, Ernie can help you out.
Best,
Karen
 
Last edited:
How would you go from a trio or quad, to a rotational line breeding program?

Thanks, colburg
Here's how I would do it, starting with a young trio:

Year One:
Pen A - Cockerel, Pullet
Pen B - Pullet

Year Two:
Pen A - Cockerel from Pen A, Hen from Pen A
Pen B- Cock from Pen A, Hen from Pen B, Pullet(s) from Pen A to fill

Year Three:
Pen A- Cockerel from Pen A, Hen from Pen A, Pullet(s) from Pen B to fill
Pen B- Yr 2 Cock from Pen A, Original Hen from Pen B, Pullet(s) from pen A to fill
Pen C- Original Cock from Pen A, Pullets from A&B

Year 4-
Pen A- Cockerel from C, Pullets from A
Pen B- Cockerel from A, Pullets from B
Pen C- Cock from yr 2 pen A, Pullets from C
Pen D- Original Cock from A or Cockerel from Pen C, Pullets from A&B (C only if not using cockerel)

At that point I would relabel everyone with proper pen "clan" bands (All birds in Pen are now Clan A,B,C, or D based on where they currently are) and begin my rotation.

That branch out keeps maximum distance between birds for genetic separation, and avoids brother/sister matings. Remember when making pairings to not double up weaknesses, complimentary breeding as much as you possibly can. When branching out like this, use your original birds as long as you can.

I would encourage you if you're going to go to this method from a trio, it is very very important that the original male be of superb quality. It is easier, and possibly better from a preservation standpoint to start from 2 pair. Or a trio and a Pair if you can.

Another plan that would work would be:

Year One:
Pen A- Cockerel, Pullet
Pen B- Pullet

Year Two:
Pen A- Cockerel from A, Hen from A
Pen B- Cock from A, Hen from B

Year Three:
Pen A- Original Cock from A (or Cockerel from B), Hens and Pullets from A
Pen B- Cock from A yr 2, Hen and Pullets from B
Pen C- Cockerel from A, Pullets from B
Pen D- Cockerel from B, Pullets from A

Year Four:
Relabel and begin rotation
 
Last edited:
Maggiesdad is right, I did misunderstand. A light bulb just went on in my head. Not four roosters per pen, common sense.They'll kill each other! Not 36 hens either. I'll put one rooster in with two sister hens per breeding pen. Four pens will means I keep four roosters, might as well keep a brother to each (back up) in the four pens for the cockerels that would otherwise be empty at this time. I'd keep 8 breeding hens two for each clan and the runners up go in the laying coop; spares. I'm breeding 12 chickens out of 150+. Once things get going that is.

Exactly. Just because a hen lays an egg doesn't mean you should hatch it. I raised some 80 or so Dorking pullets this year, and I'll breed from around 8 of them, the same for the Anconas. More chicks from fewer hens--in a controlled environment with good records.


Starting with 25 chicks, the goal is to whittle it down to one trio or--at the very most--two pairs, and then you begin from there. Personally, when possible/advisable, I'd prefer two pairs to a trio.
 

New posts New threads Active threads

Back
Top Bottom