Feedback

[Leighb72]

Hi. I am going to look at a prefab coop 8 chicken and 2 roosters. Sounds like he got them young. Only had for about 5 or 6 months already laying eggs. He did not investigate rule very well and is not allowed to have them and needs to get rid of them. I am still very new to this. Any pointers on what I should look for when looking at these chickens?? Thank you in advance.

 

[Mrs. K]

All of the prefab coops I have ever seen, vastly over estimates the number of birds that fit into that size of coop, so I would say, take your tape measure. The coop (or house part) with roosts should be bigger than 4x5 feet, and a lot of people will tell you 4 x 8.

The run (yard part) should be about 8 x 10.

I will bet it is nowhere close. However, some birds can make it work. So as to the birds:

• do not take them if you feel sorry for them - just a train wreck.
• should have bright eyes, and should be active, moving briskly, curious and paying attention that you are there.
• healthy tends to look healthy, bright feathers, (however, if they are living in too tight of quarters, could be a bit ruffled up
• no sneezing, or coughing
• look closely at their legs, - should be tight skinned, ruffled or rough looking could be a sign of mites

Now I am pretty positive that he has too many chickens for his set up. However, if you are handy or have another shed, you could maybe make this work. Or if you put out some feelers, often times you should be able to sell some of the birds, so that the ones you keep will fit better in the coop.

Good luck, it is a marvelous hobby, and a great deal of fun.

Mrs K

 

[Leighb72]

All of the prefab coops I have ever seen, vastly over estimates the number of birds that fit into that size of coop, so I would say, take your tape measure. The coop (or house part) with roosts should be bigger than 4x5 feet, and a lot of people will tell you 4 x 8.

The run (yard part) should be about 8 x 10.

I will bet it is nowhere close. However, some birds can make it work. So as to the birds:

• do not take them if you feel sorry for them - just a train wreck.
• should have bright eyes, and should be active, moving briskly, curious and paying attention that you are there.
• healthy tends to look healthy, bright feathers, (however, if they are living in too tight of quarters, could be a bit ruffled up
• no sneezing, or coughing
• look closely at their legs, - should be tight skinned, ruffled or rough looking could be a sign of mites

Now I am pretty positive that he has too many chickens for his set up. However, if you are handy or have another shed, you could maybe make this work. Or if you put out some feelers, often times you should be able to sell some of the birds, so that the ones you keep will fit better in the coop.

Good luck, it is a marvelous hobby, and a great deal of fun.

Mrs K

Thank you. So there were some minor things I noticed. The coop is temporary. We plan to build a small shed this summer. We have a a 10 x 10 dog we are adding on for now. The goal we be to free range during the day. He said they put themselves to bed at night. Wish me luck.

 

[Mrs. K]

I do wish you luck! this is so fun. Now they may lay tonight, and then take a couple of days off, don't be alarmed, the egg they lay tomorrow was already in the pipe, so to speak, but chickens hate change, so they may take a small break, just give them some time.

 

[Leighb72]

I figured the stress would effect production. Can I put chicken wire underneath the prefab run? I need to make sure nothing can get under for now. I would put straw on top of the chicken wire. What do you think?

 

[Mrs. K]

Most of my predators dig under in a tight U right next to the fence. I have had good luck in placing chicken wire flat on top of the ground so that it is L with the bottom part of the L sticking out a foot or a bit more, I weight it down at first but the grass and weeds grow up through it. It hurts their feet when they try an dig.

 

[feathermaid]

Chicken wire would work, ½" hardware cloth would be better. An outside perimeter apron like Mrs. K mentioned works very well as most predators try to dig right next to the base and the wire will block them right away. This also leaves the interior of the run free and clear for chickens to scratch down to the dirt and dust bathe, without snagging a claw on the wire or possibly injuring themselves.