Fencing Help

[AmyJane725]

And I feel like I've heard people saying that when dirty litter is removed from the coop it can just be thrown on the ground in the run. Is that correct?

 

[rosemarythyme]

I'm also supposed to have windows above the roosts to get the ventilation without chilling the birds. And what direction am I supposed to have the windows? On the N, S, E or W sides? I feel like I read there's one direction you're NOT supposed to have windows, and the rest are ok?

As far as which direction you should/shouldn't have windows, the general recommendation is South facing windows for light. However I have NO windows facing South because that's where most of my winds come from. So you need to assess how the wind and rain blows at your chosen coop location, and place windows and vents according to that.

Ventilation: depending on the exact coop build there's a lot of ways to get ventilation in. Vents are most effective up high, in or near the roof, to allow moist air to escape. If possible aim for a minimum 1 sq ft per bird or 10% of floor space, whichever is greater.

I have 5 windows, 1 gable vent, 2 floor vents, 40 under eave vent holes front and back, and a ridge vent for a total of 32 sq ft of vents (minimum recommended ventilation for my coop is 12 sq ft). It's been completely bone dry this winter, even though the weather's been miserable.

if we assume the litter is about 6 inches, then the nesting boxes area foot, and the roosts are a foot above the nesting boxes, how high above the roosts should the vents be? 2-3 ft maybe? So total 4.5 - 5.5ft tall, and maybe just round it up to 6 feet tall inside? Then maybe up on 2ft stilts?

The total height depends on how much access you want inside, the height measurements you have sound pretty good to me for an elevated coop. You mostly need to think of how you can reach in for cleaning and maintenance.

 

[rosemarythyme]

And I feel like I've heard people saying that when dirty litter is removed from the coop it can just be thrown on the ground in the run. Is that correct?

Depends on what you're using as litter and what, if any, your plans are for litter out in the run. But yes as a general rule that would work fine. I rake my used litter out into the run, spread it around a bit, and that's it.

 

[aart]

@aart - You have a good point. It is kind of weird to not be able to get inside the coop if you need to. I'm assuming you'd advise having a keeper door for emergency access, as well as cleaning.

Do you have any input on the ventilation direction? Like, which side of the coop the window shouldn't be on, or doesn't it matter? How tall should a coop be overall? I know this is a broad question, since people have all sizes of coops, but if we assume the litter is about 6 inches, then the nesting boxes area foot, and the roosts are a foot above the nesting boxes, how high above the roosts should the vents be? 2-3 ft maybe? So total 4.5 - 5.5ft tall, and maybe just round it up to 6 feet tall inside? Then maybe up on 2ft stilts?

Coops should be designed for both chicken needs and keeper needs...especially if you're as infirm as I am...my knees are shot and they don't bend/kneel/squat.

Taller the better, IMO....but I'm lucky in that the shed I built my coop in is very tall with multiple open eaves and windows.
My height guidelines were linked here:

T'was I:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/coop-stack-up-how-high-stuff-works-well.73427/

 

[AmyJane725]

Depends on what you're using as litter and what, if any, your plans are for litter out in the run. But yes as a general rule that would work fine. I rake my used litter out into the run, spread it around a bit, and that's it.

I was planning to use pine shavings, unless there's something you think is healthier/more comfortable for them.

 

[rosemarythyme]

Pine shavings are fine especially inside a coop, though I use them sparingly as they're rather expensive in a larger set up, and they don't break down very well for compost nor help with run drainage like larger wood pieces would.

 

[AmyJane725]

What material do you find breaks down better/is better for drainage? I could use a mix I suppose.

 

[rosemarythyme]

Assuming there's no existing drainage issues with the location, some form of deep litter is what I'd recommend. Ideally you'd layer chunky aged wood chips with organic matter like dried leaves, short cut grass, pine needles, garden trimmings, etc. In the Pacific NW there's no shortage of this type of stuff. The wood chips provide the drainage, the rest of the stuff breaks down and can either be used for compost or if left in place helps amend the soil underneath and keeps it healthy.


This photo is mostly wood chips with some broken down dried leaves mixed in and grass clippings that were more recently added. What you can't see - puddles OUTSIDE the run as it had been pouring all night before.

 

[aart]

What material do you find breaks down better/is better for drainage? I could use a mix I suppose.

It depends on if you're trying to make 'good garden soil' or just want to poops 'digested'.
If garden soil is your goal,I'd stay away from wood shavings/chips as they take forever to break down and will absorb the nitrogen that your garden plants need.

 

[AmyJane725]

It depends on if you're trying to make 'good garden soil' or just want to poops 'digested'.
If garden soil is your goal,I'd stay away from wood shavings/chips as they take forever to break down and will absorb the nitrogen that your garden plants need.

I don't care about garden soil. I just need the poop digested and to not run out of space for all the dirtied bedding.