Fermenting Feed for Meat Birds

[Demosthine]

LOL What exactly is prickly pear slurry? It sounds good ...but then nooo it sounds bad. LOL I wonder how well you could free range rabbits in electric poultry netting. Hmmm...?

I am trying to make prickly pear jam, but it was so much work doing it manually that I attempted an alternate method. You freeze the fruit, called tuna, and they become extremely soft and juicy when they thaw. If you put them in a blender and make a slurry, you can strain it through a fine filter like a pillow case or a panty hose. Use the juice as the base for the jam. All the leftover seed and skin makes the slurry.

Prickly pear is an amazing fruit. It is used for jams, jellies, candy, bread, wine and even Margarita syrups! Of course, natural juices, too.

It is a cooling agent, meaning it literally chills your body from the inside out which is one reason the animals and Natives loved it during summer. Eaten or drinking it in excess can cause body chills, so moderation is required. But makes for a very refreshing drink!

 

[ChocolateMouse]

I believe what was meant to be said is they're totally herbivores. Not omnivores. No meat for them! No bugs, and very little high protein with low digestability like soy. Even corn is bad.

I would never EVER put a rabbit free-ranging with chickens/turkeys. There's a lot of health issues that will transfer from birds to rabbits on the ground that are easy to treat in birds, not so in rabbits. I've heard horror stories of the animals trying to mate eachother and being injured. A doe will try to kill a bird near her nest and the birds may very well try to eat the babies, or when a bird gets big enough even a small adult. Also the rabbits sometimes snack on the too-high-protein turkey feed or the too high calcium chicken feed. This can cause some serious gut issues and bladder issues and could kill them. But if you're feeding FF most rabbits won't want it. Rabbits should be eating a low acid diet since high acidity in their gut also causes problems so no fermented feed for them (although some ACV in the water is good, just keep it low quantity). The digestive tract of a rabbit is so violently different from a chickens. Compared to a chicken their diet seems super sensitive... But the truth is they're just good at eating certain things and nothing else. In this case, grass. Chickens eat grass too but it only makes up a small amount of their diet compared to all the bugs and grains and weeds etc. For rabbits it's the other way around. Mixing 5-6 different types of grass is an adequate diet for a rabbit, even one having a couple of litters each year. For high production (4-10 litters a year) they need more than that. So grains and "vegetables" like oats, dandelions, barley, plantago, wheat, alfalfa, clover, carrots, beet tops, turnip greens, chard, spinach, arugula, romaine, sow thistle, peppers, even sometimes corn etc. They make a big difference. Otherwise you wear out your rabbit, they may not produce enough milk for their kits, kits may die out, does will loose condition, etc.

I'd just like to point out that wild rabbits work with wild food the same way wild chickens do. In general a rabbit in the wild will raise 2-5 kits a YEAR. A forage diet will NOT cover our high production (up to 12 kits a litter 4+ times a year, so up to 20X's the number of kits) rabbit just like you can't get away with feeding free range laying hens without added calcium or high calcium soil/feed sources. You may get two decent litters out of a rabbit on forage while maintaining good condition, but not the numbers one normally hopes for. You'd have to plant a very specialized pen of forage to get by with free-ranging and high production standards.

Also, fencing does not always work for rabbits, regardless of types. They dig. And dig and dig. They're burrowing animals. They will tunnel 20 feet to get out of a pen and you will never know it if they have to. Some rabbits are content to sit in a pen. Some of mine are happy in a pen. Some dig a foot deep hole if I leave them out for more than six hours on the ground. And rabbits raised on the ground often have serious parasite issues. They're just more sensitive than chickens in every way. You can't even use many antibiotics on them or it could kill them, and if you don't work extra hard to maintain gut flora any antibiotic could kill them. But good management seems to prevent most of those problems and you can have happy, healthy, natural rabbits even in cages.

I've heard free-ranging rabbits works best in very dry environments where ground based parasites are lower in number. It works best in a huge pen with a colony setting where you care less about numbers and sires and keeping them from fighting, and more about getting to eat rabbit sometimes and having fluffy bunnies.

 

[Demosthine]

I believe what was meant to be said is they're totally herbivores. Not omnivores. No meat for them! No bugs, and very little high protein with low digestability like soy. Even corn is bad.

You are absolutely correct! I fixed it in my original post. Thank you for the correction...

In reference to your other information... Yes, we live in very dry climate and are significantly more than even the rest of metropolitan Phoenix. When the entire East Valley gets poured on, we tend to get absolutely nothing. From my reading and understanding, the fermented feed should keep the chickens extremely healthy and drive away the internal parasites, thus keeping them healthier and less susceptible to external parasites. We also use the deep litter method, which adds another layer of protection.

The doe that we've been free-ranging the last few weeks has gone after the numerous vegetables that we've thrown out to the poultry. She is not eating strictly grass and is always offered the pellets daily, though she seems to always refuse them. Come October, I've overseeding with a pasture mixture that contains eleven different types of grass, so they should get a more rounded diet there, too. We have all block fences that have the code required two-foot deep cement footings. Yes, I'm sure they can dig that deep, but it should be a fairly good deterrent. So far, I've been watching closely and have not found any burrows.

I've done my best to research it all and know what I was getting in to. And although it is not a common practice, I firmly believe animals belong in the most natural environment possible. That is not a cage or hutch. They have a kennel to sleep in at night, with a rabbit waterer and the pellets. The buck will be brought in nightly because my wife wants him to be a house pet.

I'm not saying anything you wrote was false or that I won't experience it, but I'm doing my best to keep it all under control. I have people that adamantly tried to keep me from free-ranging my chickens, but that's worked out beautifully. You can say "I told you so!" later if things don't work out, though! And I appreciate the warnings. Knowledge is the best form of power and the more I know, the better chances I have of preventing it.

 

[fuzziecreatures]

Ok, so I am trying to read through this gigantic thread and am only on page 70 after 5 days... I was trying to find some sort of recipe for feed. I feed 65 chickens ages 2 years to 2 weeks. 1 mature rooster, some juvenile cockerels, rest pullets and hens and babies. I've been soaking the start and grow for the last few days and they love it so far. I'm ready to jump into fermentation.

I don't want to waste food or grain, experimenting with fermentation recipes. We have Purina start and grow feed, BOSS, hard white wheat, sratch grains with oats, and buckwheat currently. We can get corn, I'd have to ask the feed store about other grains. I have my own acv going, 2 different recipes. I have Heinz acv with mother. 5 gal buckets to ferment in. I also have a giant 55gal barrel I can use in the garage.

1 problem I see is, we live in the north and right now it is cold... in August! We do not have heated areas for the birds in the winter. Can I get the feed fermentation going now and it continue through the cold winter? Make a hot box to insulate it in the garage?

 

[Beekissed]

Ok, so I am trying to read through this gigantic thread and am only on page 70 after 5 days... I was trying to find some sort of recipe for feed. I feed 65 chickens ages 2 years to 2 weeks. 1 mature rooster, some juvenile cockerels, rest pullets and hens and babies. I've been soaking the start and grow for the last few days and they love it so far. I'm ready to jump into fermentation.

I don't want to waste food or grain, experimenting with fermentation recipes. We have Purina start and grow feed, BOSS, hard white wheat, sratch grains with oats, and buckwheat currently. We can get corn, I'd have to ask the feed store about other grains. I have my own acv going, 2 different recipes. I have Heinz acv with mother. 5 gal buckets to ferment in. I also have a giant 55gal barrel I can use in the garage.

1 problem I see is, we live in the north and right now it is cold... in August! We do not have heated areas for the birds in the winter. Can I get the feed fermentation going now and it continue through the cold winter? Make a hot box to insulate it in the garage?

You can...I've found the fermentation slows down at temps of 50 or below. I place my buckets inside when this happens, so if you have a room that is optimal for fermenting, that is an option. Others have used hot boxes out in their barns to keep it warmed.

 

[7acres]

I am trying to make prickly pear jam, but it was so much work doing it manually that I attempted an alternate method. You freeze the fruit, called tuna, and they become extremely soft and juicy when they thaw. If you put them in a blender and make a slurry, you can strain it through a fine filter like a pillow case or a panty hose. Use the juice as the base for the jam. All the leftover seed and skin makes the slurry.

Prickly pear is an amazing fruit. It is used for jams, jellies, candy, bread, wine and even Margarita syrups! Of course, natural juices, too.

It is a cooling agent, meaning it literally chills your body from the inside out which is one reason the animals and Natives loved it during summer. Eaten or drinking it in excess can cause body chills, so moderation is required. But makes for a very refreshing drink!

Have a huge one in my front yard. Taller than I am. Has beautiful yellow flowers earlier in the year. Make jelly out of the tuna and it is very good. The juice has a beautiful color.

 

[Triple Willow]

I was sitting hear reading you guy's posts , have the windows up because we have finally had a break in the monsoon season we have been having then I smell a skunk. No big deal, smell them occasionally - then it hits me skunk/chicken - oh crap! lol So I have been out trying to run a skunk off and turned the dog out so hopefully he will keep it ran off (without getting sprayed). I really don't think it can get into the coop but it still makes me nervous! Poor dog got sprayed by one a few years ago. He smelled funky for a year! Have any of you guys ever had any losses due to skunks? Boy I really don't want to have to trap this thing! Yikes!

 

[Triple Willow]

I am trying to make prickly pear jam, but it was so much work doing it manually that I attempted an alternate method. You freeze the fruit, called tuna, and they become extremely soft and juicy when they thaw. If you put them in a blender and make a slurry, you can strain it through a fine filter like a pillow case or a panty hose. Use the juice as the base for the jam. All the leftover seed and skin makes the slurry.

Prickly pear is an amazing fruit. It is used for jams, jellies, candy, bread, wine and even Margarita syrups! Of course, natural juices, too.

It is a cooling agent, meaning it literally chills your body from the inside out which is one reason the animals and Natives loved it during summer. Eaten or drinking it in excess can cause body chills, so moderation is required. But makes for a very refreshing drink!

Ahhh, ok. I have heard of prickly pears but I've never seen one or the tree or bush they grow on. I bet your jam will be good. The part about it being a cooling agent is very interesting.

 

[RoseMarie1]

I was sitting hear reading you guy's posts , have the windows up because we have finally had a break in the monsoon season we have been having then I smell a skunk. No big deal, smell them occasionally - then it hits me skunk/chicken - oh crap! lol So I have been out trying to run a skunk off and turned the dog out so hopefully he will keep it ran off (without getting sprayed). I really don't think it can get into the coop but it still makes me nervous! Poor dog got sprayed by one a few years ago. He smelled funky for a year! Have any of you guys ever had any losses due to skunks? Boy I really don't want to have to trap this thing! Yikes!

oh man I'd be worried to. Sure hope the thing left and wont be back!!! I've not had any problems with them though but just getting started. We used to have loads of skunks around here but thank goodness they've been killed or left to find food else where. THANK GOODNESS! I am just starting as of this spring with my chickens.

 

[RoseMarie1]

Around here grade cockerels for processing will go at $5 ea. but if you keep them a little longer and sell them one or two at a time, asking $10-$15 for them, you might get that if someone is looking for one adult rooster to add to their flock. You see...some people get a rooster as a chick, raise it like a baby, it turns on them at sexual maturity and they then either kill it or rehome it..and then they look for a "nice" rooster. Market to THOSE folks and you'll get your money on those roosters..but if you sell them by the batch or flock, you will probably only sell them at the bulk rate someone expects if they are just going to kill them for eating.


It's not a coincidence and you can get the same results with using ACV steadily in the water, so I'm thinking the acidity of the FF is producing the same results. I used to get mostly pullets on the hatches when using ACV in the water and mostly does on my meat rabbits when I used the ACV in their water as well. It also works on sheep..at least, it did for mine and I read one article where the farmer reported 85% ewe lambs after starting to add ACV to the water and also reported longer, stronger and finer grade wool as well.

Since the FF also has that acidity from the acetobacter bacilli that is drawn in from the air~ even when one does not use ACV to charge the batch, they are going to have that in there anyway. I stopped using ACV in the water after starting the FF as I noticed that the eggs had the same good taste they had when I used the ACV but it was from feeding the FF that also has it's own type of vinegar.

Someone told me they were reselling them. I should not have said I know for a fact because I'm not really sure their intent. UGH I was so aggravated and mad because I'm the one with the money in them. Man I sure am learning some stuff here lately and eating humble pie.

yeah my nephew I bought them from explained to me to and I hadn't even thought of it like that. I thought they went for much more than they do. But like you said if I wait I might could get more but then like he said to, I'd have more money in them to keeping them and feeding them longer. I have so many right now and I worry about them starting to fight and then having to deal with that. I do plan on keeping 2 of each of the breeds and might even see IF I can find me a black sexlink roo for my black sexlink pullet. Not sure on that one though since I'd have to keep em separated to know what they all were and that would just be too much trouble.