AmeliaBedelia
Crowing
If I were you, I would be more interested in a self-watering system than a huge food station if you can solve the algae issue. If our coop were close enough to a tap, I would try to do one of those where the garden hose hooks up to a pipe with nipple waterers for the summer. But alas, not an option for us so we have to tote water
.
For food, it really isn’t a big deal to put a large secure metal trash can somewhere on the way to the coop and park your empty feeders next to it at night and then in the morning fill them and hang them for the chickens. Or a little bucket if you prefer to leave the feeders hanging and tote a bucket back and forth. You have to go get eggs anyway, right?
You can also use cayenne or other hot pepper powders in the feed to make it less attractive to rodents.
In general, I totally agree with others who mentioned having multiples of things. Sometimes you’ll have a bully hen who decides she doesn’t want to share. Having 2 feeders and 2 water spots solves that.
I also recommend adding a couple hiding spots like a pallet lean-to in the run. If the bullied hen can get out of sight (but NOT trapped in a dead-end), that usually ends the fight. Similarly having multiple perches in the coop and run can allow hens to get a bit more space from each other.
I wouldn’t stress too much though. Most things are easy to change and not super expensive, so if you try one and hate it you can change it. If you try pine needles or raked leaves and don’t like it, easy enough to rake most of them out and grab a bale or two of straw or some pine chips.
The main decision to make right now it sounds like is interior vs exterior space, which I think depends on your weather and if you are willing to add panels to the run in the winter if they need more draft-free space then.
It may sound like a lot, but with the deep bedding/litter method, you periodically assess and add some bedding (maybe check it each weekend), and top off water and bring out/open the food each day. It’s similar to having cats - mostly feeding them, little bit of cleaning.

For food, it really isn’t a big deal to put a large secure metal trash can somewhere on the way to the coop and park your empty feeders next to it at night and then in the morning fill them and hang them for the chickens. Or a little bucket if you prefer to leave the feeders hanging and tote a bucket back and forth. You have to go get eggs anyway, right?
You can also use cayenne or other hot pepper powders in the feed to make it less attractive to rodents.
In general, I totally agree with others who mentioned having multiples of things. Sometimes you’ll have a bully hen who decides she doesn’t want to share. Having 2 feeders and 2 water spots solves that.
I also recommend adding a couple hiding spots like a pallet lean-to in the run. If the bullied hen can get out of sight (but NOT trapped in a dead-end), that usually ends the fight. Similarly having multiple perches in the coop and run can allow hens to get a bit more space from each other.
I wouldn’t stress too much though. Most things are easy to change and not super expensive, so if you try one and hate it you can change it. If you try pine needles or raked leaves and don’t like it, easy enough to rake most of them out and grab a bale or two of straw or some pine chips.
The main decision to make right now it sounds like is interior vs exterior space, which I think depends on your weather and if you are willing to add panels to the run in the winter if they need more draft-free space then.
It may sound like a lot, but with the deep bedding/litter method, you periodically assess and add some bedding (maybe check it each weekend), and top off water and bring out/open the food each day. It’s similar to having cats - mostly feeding them, little bit of cleaning.