I know every little about goats milk replacer I would give them pedilite for now. They do not look old enough to make it own there own yet. I do not release until they can open a walnut shell my guess is they have about 2 weeks to go yet
**FOUND-Baby flying squirrels (info?)**
- Thread starter buck-wild-chick
- Start date
- Thread starter
- #22
Alright I told mom to pick up, puppy milk replacement, pedialyte, and parrot food...Did I get everything ? lol
Quote:
Parrot food?
Peanuts (shelled roasted no salt)
Walnuts ( shelled and in shell)
Sunflower seeds (oil)
Grapes
Apples
Melons
Critter mix (most feed stores carry this)
Parrot food?
Peanuts (shelled roasted no salt)
Walnuts ( shelled and in shell)
Sunflower seeds (oil)
Grapes
Apples
Melons
Critter mix (most feed stores carry this)
- Thread starter
- #24
They seem to be getting frisky
Very cute! Years ago we raised two baby squirrels my brother brought home...started them on doll bottles (don't even know if they had pet bottles back then...lol). I'm sure we probably just used diluted cream and they did fine. But I'm sure formulated animal milk replacement would be better. One grew up tame (Chipper) and the other stayed rather wild (Wild Bill). We released them into a state park when they were about 8 months old. Good luck with them, whatever you decide to do.
I've raised several squirrels successfully, as well as other animals. Here is what my Wildlife Rehab Manual says to do for flying squirrels:
What to do first: if the animal's skin tents when pinched it is dehydrated. Rehydrate with room temp pedialyte or gatorade. Keep animal warm with indirect low heat, or hold against your own skin.
Housing: young squirrels should be housed in a small box lined with newspaper with soft bedding added. Flying squirrels are susceptible to chilling. It is imperative that they are provided with adequate supplemental heat. Place a heating pad under 1/4 to 1/3 of the box and up one side. This allows the squirrels to move away as needed. Start the pad on medium head and feel the bottom of the box to be sure adequate warmth is coming through. it should feel warm, not hot. If the animals are 4 weeks and well furred, turn the heat to low. Heat can be discontinued at 8 weeks by weaning down the hours used, removing the heat at night last. Check to be sure they maintain their body heat. If not, reintroduce the heat at low. Include natural items such as soft twigs and leaves in their box so that the first smells and touches are similar to what they would be smelling and touching in the wild. Remember they usually live in a woodpeckers hole. If their eyes are open and they are mobile, they shoudl be housed in a larger cage. It shoudl be large enough for the squirrels to get plenty of exercise, yet small enough to move back and forth from inside to outside. During this phase, the squirrels should be getting used to being outside longer and longer periods of time. Handle as little as possible. Include in the cage a wide variety of natural foods: fruits, nuts, berries, seeds, vegetables, etc. Also natural features such as logs, branches, mounds of fresh soil, a source of fresh water, and a nesting box. When aclimatized and eating a natural diet, move to an outside release housing.
Feeding: Use 1 part powdered Unilact to 3 parts of warm water. Soy-based infant formula (isomil, nursoy, or prosobee) mixed according to manufacturers directions may also be used to feed baby squirrels. It is important to feed young squirrels slowly. If, in spite of your efforts, the baby sucks so hard that the mixture bubbles out of its nose, thicken the mixture slightly with baby cereal. Continue to feed slowly. Respiratory probs may develop if formula gets in the animals lungs. Feed with an eyedropper, syringe, pet-nurser bottle, or cat replacement nipple attached to a 1/2" syringe. Make sure they are fully awake before feeding them, rubbing gently if necessary to stimulate the sucking reflex. Feed every 4 hours if healthy, or more often if weak or ill until they regain strength. Abdomens will be round and firm when full, not bloated or tight. Monitor to be sure the animal is having a bowel movement every 24 hours. If the squirrel gets bloated/constipated immerse its lower body in warm water for 5 minutes and stroke the abdomen and vent area. (
) If animal has diarrhea, alternate feedings with feedings of hydration fluid. When eyes are open add natural foods to the box: apple slices and other fruits, unsalted nuts, berries, wheat gern, seeds, unripened corn and other fresh veg, green buds, soil, etc. Mixed seed gerbil food may be added as a supplement. It is important to offer a wide variety of natural foods. As squirrels begin eating solid foods, slowly reduce the number of formula feedings (4 a day, then 3, then 2 then 1 and then none.) Wait 4 days between incremental reductions. Feed weaned squirrels at night by scattering food on the bottom of the cage among branches, soil, and other natural features you've put in the cage. Never teach squirrels to find food in a dish. Water should be given in a pet water bottle or in a small shallow dish. It is important that they learn to feed at night.
Releasing: When the squirrels are eating a natural diet and are acclimatized, place them in a permanent outside-release cage. An ideal cage shoudl be at least 6x6x6feet for one squirrel. Constucted of 1/2" hardware cloth and untreated wood. Mount a nest box inside the cage and provide some coverage from elements. Hang a branch from the cage roof using wire. This will teach the squirrels balance. Release in your own yard, leaving the cage door open so they can come and go at will.
Good luck with them!
What to do first: if the animal's skin tents when pinched it is dehydrated. Rehydrate with room temp pedialyte or gatorade. Keep animal warm with indirect low heat, or hold against your own skin.
Housing: young squirrels should be housed in a small box lined with newspaper with soft bedding added. Flying squirrels are susceptible to chilling. It is imperative that they are provided with adequate supplemental heat. Place a heating pad under 1/4 to 1/3 of the box and up one side. This allows the squirrels to move away as needed. Start the pad on medium head and feel the bottom of the box to be sure adequate warmth is coming through. it should feel warm, not hot. If the animals are 4 weeks and well furred, turn the heat to low. Heat can be discontinued at 8 weeks by weaning down the hours used, removing the heat at night last. Check to be sure they maintain their body heat. If not, reintroduce the heat at low. Include natural items such as soft twigs and leaves in their box so that the first smells and touches are similar to what they would be smelling and touching in the wild. Remember they usually live in a woodpeckers hole. If their eyes are open and they are mobile, they shoudl be housed in a larger cage. It shoudl be large enough for the squirrels to get plenty of exercise, yet small enough to move back and forth from inside to outside. During this phase, the squirrels should be getting used to being outside longer and longer periods of time. Handle as little as possible. Include in the cage a wide variety of natural foods: fruits, nuts, berries, seeds, vegetables, etc. Also natural features such as logs, branches, mounds of fresh soil, a source of fresh water, and a nesting box. When aclimatized and eating a natural diet, move to an outside release housing.
Feeding: Use 1 part powdered Unilact to 3 parts of warm water. Soy-based infant formula (isomil, nursoy, or prosobee) mixed according to manufacturers directions may also be used to feed baby squirrels. It is important to feed young squirrels slowly. If, in spite of your efforts, the baby sucks so hard that the mixture bubbles out of its nose, thicken the mixture slightly with baby cereal. Continue to feed slowly. Respiratory probs may develop if formula gets in the animals lungs. Feed with an eyedropper, syringe, pet-nurser bottle, or cat replacement nipple attached to a 1/2" syringe. Make sure they are fully awake before feeding them, rubbing gently if necessary to stimulate the sucking reflex. Feed every 4 hours if healthy, or more often if weak or ill until they regain strength. Abdomens will be round and firm when full, not bloated or tight. Monitor to be sure the animal is having a bowel movement every 24 hours. If the squirrel gets bloated/constipated immerse its lower body in warm water for 5 minutes and stroke the abdomen and vent area. (
Releasing: When the squirrels are eating a natural diet and are acclimatized, place them in a permanent outside-release cage. An ideal cage shoudl be at least 6x6x6feet for one squirrel. Constucted of 1/2" hardware cloth and untreated wood. Mount a nest box inside the cage and provide some coverage from elements. Hang a branch from the cage roof using wire. This will teach the squirrels balance. Release in your own yard, leaving the cage door open so they can come and go at will.
Good luck with them!
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #27
Thank you quillgirl!
Looks like I'm doing everything right
I am in contact with an exotic animal breeder/vet tech.She has raised countless exotic animals including flying squirrels. (she also has tigers
)
Right now I'm waking up every 3 hours to make sure the temp isn't to high or low.I have tried stimulating them but it doesn't seem to work.
When I first brought them in, I remember seeing poo on one of their butts, so they are probably able to use the bathroom on their own.
Right now they are in a box with the heating pad halfway on .I also keep a warm rice filled sock in with them because the heating pad turns off every 2 hours then
comes back on later. I am still worried about them getting cold,so like I said I am regularly checking on them.
I know these are wild animals and I could lose them but I'm hoping for the best and trying not to get attached (just incase). I know I probably should have
let "Nature takes it course" and leave them alone but I couldn't bare the thought of them becoming chicken food.I wonder how many others are "were" out there.
citalk2much- The parrot food has alot of unsalted nuts,seeds and dried fruit in it.Of course I will buy the right fruits ect.. but right now I do not have
the foods you listed.I burrowed the food from my aunt, who has raised several squirrels before.
Looks like I'm doing everything right
I am in contact with an exotic animal breeder/vet tech.She has raised countless exotic animals including flying squirrels. (she also has tigers
Right now I'm waking up every 3 hours to make sure the temp isn't to high or low.I have tried stimulating them but it doesn't seem to work.
When I first brought them in, I remember seeing poo on one of their butts, so they are probably able to use the bathroom on their own.
Right now they are in a box with the heating pad halfway on .I also keep a warm rice filled sock in with them because the heating pad turns off every 2 hours then
comes back on later. I am still worried about them getting cold,so like I said I am regularly checking on them.
I know these are wild animals and I could lose them but I'm hoping for the best and trying not to get attached (just incase). I know I probably should have
let "Nature takes it course" and leave them alone but I couldn't bare the thought of them becoming chicken food.I wonder how many others are "were" out there.
citalk2much- The parrot food has alot of unsalted nuts,seeds and dried fruit in it.Of course I will buy the right fruits ect.. but right now I do not have
the foods you listed.I burrowed the food from my aunt, who has raised several squirrels before.
you are too nice. I would have let the chickens use them for protein.
Good luck.
Good luck.
they probably don't need milk any more... also get some yogurt and see if they eat some fresh fruits and veggies i have 5 sugar gliders though they are not the same they will eat the same stuff. also try meal worms. but i started feeding my baby gliders yogurt they love it also provides lots of nutrients! this might help...
Edited because u put up pictures and i didnt see them
Edited because u put up pictures and i didnt see them
Last edited:
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