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- #171
My fender washers just were delivered, yippee!!!
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From the ground to the apex of the hoop is 75". Subtract 2" for the 2x4 base and it is just over 6'. HOWEVER, the curve of the hoop makes the dimensions of a door critical.Thought -- are the dimensions of the end such that you could go to your local Habitate ReStore to get an old screen door so as to save having to build a door?
Start here on my build and read for several pages (not sure how many), in order to see what I did: https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/large-open-air-coop-in-central-nc.1443812/post-24727971
Note: I did go back and put in a second row of staples since I was using the shorter staples on the thinner wood instead of the fence staples.
DO NOT use the little staples from a hand staplegun.
I meant to add a thank you, I hadn't read your build thread before. I like the idea of putting a plastic border along the wood frame, to keep the deep litter from promoting rot. I wonder if cat litter/food bags might work in a pinch.Thought -- are the dimensions of the end such that you could go to your local Habitate ReStore to get an old screen door so as to save having to build a door?
Start here on my build and read for several pages (not sure how many), in order to see what I did: https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/large-open-air-coop-in-central-nc.1443812/post-24727971
Note: I did go back and put in a second row of staples since I was using the shorter staples on the thinner wood instead of the fence staples.
DO NOT use the little staples from a hand staplegun.
I meant to add a thank you, I hadn't read your build thread before. I like the idea of putting a plastic border along the wood frame, to keep the deep litter from promoting rot. I wonder if cat litter/food bags might work in a pinch.
How I spent about six hours today...
Set up around 11:00am, temps still in the 40s.
The 1x4s I purchased to make the door are laid out, ready to be marked and cut.
View attachment 3409208
I needed to cut the boards for the uprights at 65" so I could make the door width 36" and have everything fit.
Below shows me attaching the coated fencing to the 1x4s. I used a few 3/4" poultry staples to hold the fencing in place, just in case I needed to make changes.
View attachment 3409212
Then I added a short board for the width, top and bottom.
View attachment 3409214
Checking for placement. I used a couple old 2x4s as templates, then marked and cut the last PT 2x4x16' to make the door frame.
View attachment 3409217
I attached the hinges to the left door frame board then to the door while it was flat on the ground. When the left door frame upright was plumb I drilled pilot holes, then attached it to the horizontal coop frame with two long screws through the front, then one more from the back (inside of the coop).
View attachment 3409218
Then I attached the right side upright in the same manner. I measured for the top of the frame, cut, and attached.
View attachment 3409233
Door frame is plumb and level!
View attachment 3409237
Next I attached the door frame to the top of the hoop with galvanized straps, fender washers and long screws.
View attachment 3409238
View attachment 3409239
So...the door frame is level and plumb though the coop frame isn't due to the sloping ground.
But the door is not level. I removed and reattached two hinges, still not level.
I can get it closed though it's a tight fit.
View attachment 3409246
I put on a hasp to keep the door closed (I know, I did it backwards, will redo tomorrow).
I'll attach leftover 1x4 lengths behind the door as a stop and to close up the gap at the bottom of the door. Then I will start adding hardware cloth to the door and the open areas around it.
Not too shabby for my first door...
View attachment 3409253