Goat fence post

[Weeg]

Correct. My question was about spacing of poles to compensate for the pressure the goats will put against the fence scratching.

This is what I plan on using https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/feedlot-panel-hog-16-ft-l-x-34-in-h

TSC has some on catalog special marketed for goats but they're not available in my area.

I would be concerned it wasn't tall enough, plus its big enough for them to get there hooves in to climb. Possibly big enough for a Nigerian dwarf to get its head through close to the top as well.
It may work though, you never know, I just know that my goat would lol! Maybe electric wire as well so the goats can't climb it would work. Hope this helps!

 

[father0fnine]

Ok, I linked the wrong product. The panels are a little over 4 feet. The goats I'm planning on disbudded. Most of what I read talk about horns when talking about stuck heads.

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/feedlot-panel-combo-16-ft-l-x-52-in-h

 

[Weeg]

Ok, I linked the wrong product. The panels are a little over 4 feet. The goats I'm planning on disbudded. Most of what I read talk about horns when talking about stuck heads.

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/feedlot-panel-combo-16-ft-l-x-52-in-h

Okay, that seems pretty good. I bet that will work.

 

[alwaystj9]

On the 52" panel, the bottom holes are too big to contain young ND's & Pygmies. If you are going to have baby miniature goats around, and have those panels, you will need to attach 3 feet of 1"x2" welded wire inside. I use the hog panels with 2 strands wire on top to hold the goats and a horse. My buck pen has the 52" panels, and I use the 52" panels upside down for the creep feeder so the babies can get in to eat but not the adults.
In the first pic, the hay feeder is attached to a hog panel with a 7 wk. ND standing up on it. The taller panel beside the horse is an on-end piece of hog panel that allows the babies access to the inner pen. The second pic is an adult female ND with a 5 week buckling and they are in front of a hog panel. The third is a pic of an adult ND stuck in a hay feeder to illustrate what these silly things will do.

 

[cassie]

First question, can I use those green fence posts that you pound into the ground for goats. I think they are called t-bar?

Next question, is there a great backyard goat forum like this backyard chicken forum?

D

This may be a chicken forum, but there are a lot of knowledgeable goat people on here too. The same can be said for rabbits and many other critters. If you want to know something about goats, or rabbits, or horses or guinea pigs, or anything else, just ask.

 

[lomine]

I use the hog panels between my does and bucks. When younger, my bucks could stick their heads through the bigger holes but never got stuck (they're disbudded). I use the Premier 1 wire panel connector hinges to connect the panels. They stabilize the fence and completely close the gap between panels. There are two t-posts for each panel, so every 8 ft. I've never had a goat climb a fence, but maybe I'm just lucky there.

You can see the fence in the background of the photo. If you zoom in on the area above the middle bucks right ear (his right) you can make out what looks like a squiggle next to the t-post. That's the hinge. You can then see them every 16 ft.

 

[citymeetscountry]

We just have a regular chain link fence for our goats. The biggest issue is getting the gate closed. It’s not a big deal for us bc they don’t escape the yard usually, they just want to be where we are. BUT since we have added an extra gate to keep them on the top lot and not next to the house they do keep finding ways to open the gate and come down to be with us.

Out of our 2 goats (Nigerian Dwarf and Myotonic) the ND is the cheekiest of them. He’s ornery and tricky.

They’re fun.

As far as the t-posts and fencing goes we put some up around our garden area to keep the goats out and it’s worked well.

 

[TenderfootFarm]

In the last four years, we have gone from 2 fainting goats, to currently 16. I've become a bit of an expert on fencing. The first pen was about 40x100. Now we have five sections varying from 15x30 for kidding to a few acres. All of our fence is the sheep/goat fence from TSC. Round, treated posts at 50' apart and t-stakes between at 10' apart. "H" braces or "L" braces at corners or the beginning/end of rolls (330' rolls). The key to this type of fence is getting it TIGHT. I concrete all of the wood posts to allow me to pull the fence tight. I use a couple 2x4s bolted together to sandwich the fence and pull with a come-a-long attached to a skid steer to get it tight. When the machine starts dragging in the dirt, it's tight. Round posts make wrapping the ends and turning corners easier. I built a 75x200 pig pen with square posts and "field" fence and found it much more difficult to work with. Hog panels are for hogs. You can't follow the contour of the ground with them (if you have any), and the larger squares at the top make it easy for horns to get stuck (our goats are not dis-budded). Build it bigger than you think you need. If you can't do that, consider how you might be able to expand later. Have a place to put a goat by itself if needed. Think about the weather. If you build in the summer, where will the snow drift in winter? Be ready to make changes/improvements. Make it easy for you and comfortable for your animals. It will be worth it in the long run.

 

[father0fnine]

The third is a pic of an adult ND stuck in a hay feeder to illustrate what these silly things will do.

I know! I had a little wether that liked to sleep in his feeder. Funniest thing I ever did see and the cutest.

 

[alwaystj9]

In the last four years, we have gone from 2 fainting goats, to currently 16. I've become a bit of an expert on fencing. The first pen was about 40x100. Now we have five sections varying from 15x30 for kidding to a few acres. All of our fence is the sheep/goat fence from TSC. Round, treated posts at 50' apart and t-stakes between at 10' apart. "H" braces or "L" braces at corners or the beginning/end of rolls (330' rolls). The key to this type of fence is getting it TIGHT. I concrete all of the wood posts to allow me to pull the fence tight. I use a couple 2x4s bolted together to sandwich the fence and pull with a come-a-long attached to a skid steer to get it tight. When the machine starts dragging in the dirt, it's tight. Round posts make wrapping the ends and turning corners easier. I built a 75x200 pig pen with square posts and "field" fence and found it much more difficult to work with. Hog panels are for hogs. You can't follow the contour of the ground with them (if you have any), and the larger squares at the top make it easy for horns to get stuck (our goats are not dis-budded). Build it bigger than you think you need. If you can't do that, consider how you might be able to expand later. Have a place to put a goat by itself if needed. Think about the weather. If you build in the summer, where will the snow drift in winter? Be ready to make changes/improvements. Make it easy for you and comfortable for your animals. It will be worth it in the long run.

In South Louisiana the panels can work better because our wet season and high water tables allow even concreted in fenceposts to get pushed back over time, usually because the goats rub against it. The panels don't stretch and I can use a bolt cutter to cut them to fit into a tree line. The tree line has worked better for me over time than wood or metal posts. I lived in CO for a couple of years and the ground there does allow a fence to stay put.
I wish there was a taller panel available but find the 2" x 4" opening 5 ft X 16 ft horse panels are over $70 each...too rich for me but I have used them for a few projects (truck-mounted shipping crate).
I didn't notice where the OP lived, whether it is a dryer environment or not.
If I re-fence, I may add some electric to keep the little goatie stinkers to not rub.