Great Pyranese...another idea I got from this site.

I raise goats and have looked into them for goat protection. However I have heard it mentioned many times "great pyrenees needs home without chickens" so if you get one for chickens ensure its raised with them or has been raised with them without incident.
 
How ironic that this whole topic came up. I posted a few hours ago on this one about our female. Well I just litterally got off the phone with a lady who has puppies. She is bringing one to her work tomorrow for me to come and get. It's a little 7-8 week male. Purebred with papers. She is going to give him to me--was charging $400 a piece, but after I talked to her on the phone, just before we hung up she said I can HAVE him because she knows he will have a WONDERFUL home...I talked to her for about 2 hours on the phone while she was at work...So I get to get a FREE papered pyranese puppy in the morning....YEAH!!!!!!!
 
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Wow! That's awesome. If I could get a pup for free I'd get one right now. Holy Smokes.
 
Quote:
Wow! That's awesome. If I could get a pup for free I'd get one right now. Holy Smokes.

I know....I really truely wasn't even looking for another dog....We already have 3 dogs and it's not like I really needed ANOTHER dog.
It actually just fell into place. My girlfriend called me, said she seen an add for the puppy in the paper. But couldn't call as she was heading back to work. She said she was looking for me -even though we really weren't looking...Anyway she read me the add, I called the lady (yes she had her work number listed) and ended up talking for about 2 hrs...And now I am getting her $400 puppy for FREE with papers and all that good stuff...Not that the papers are important to me..I know some prefer it. But I could really care less as I am not a breeder or plan on breeding....But YEAH!!!! I really am excited about it...
 
I have a 15 month old Pyr. He guards chickens and our new puppy by day in the barn, but comes indoors at night. He is very much a pet AND a working dog. I have heard they can't do both, but mine definitely can. So far he has battled fisher cats, hawks, opossums, all sorts of critters. He keeps the coyotes and deer out of our yard, too. We are training him for draft work as well, he's extremely smart.

As far as not being a house dog: Our barn isn't huge, the chicken yard is 80x70', the house is 2500 square feet and he stays downstairs mostly. When we bring him in the house after a long day of guarding, he sleeps on our feet in front of the TV, by the woodstove, or in the middle of wherever you needed to walk
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. He cuddles and does many cute tricks. Definitely a part-time house dog. They need space, for sure, they aren't chihuahuas, but they certainly don't need to be kenneled outside exclusively.

My Pyr comes from champion lines, parents have won many titles and shows, so I paid $1000. He's a handsome bugger, total strangers stop in the street to ask about him. Well, when he's recently groomed anyway...
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Gonna get pictures soon of our little guy....

Our girls have named him "Jackyl"
Yesterday he was out in the yard rounding up all the Turkeys. Gotta start small I guess..hahahaha

Jackyls mom had taken on a pack of 6 cyotes, killing 4 of them when she was pregnant.
Our dog Macy (3/4 pyranese) is suppose to be a guard dog, but she isn't so great at it when left out in the barn/pasture with the sheep. She actually refused to eat when out there and it looked as if she was starving herself. She is excellent about guarding and warning us, but she needs the WHOLE property to do so, not just the barn and pasture. All the dogs get along GREAT....
Our Newfoundland/St. Bernard cross Dodge is a little grumpy with the puppy as Dodge doesn't play anymore...He's getting old and slow--8 yrs old isn't old but for a dog of his size it is. M.J. our blue tick, rat terrior, aus. shepard wasn't really fond of him until he was here a day or two, now the two are joined at the hip when outside. And Macy thinks this puppy is her play toy and they are constantly trying to "out-do" each other...
 
I have been studying the GP's also, in large part due to the predator issues here, and hoping to train one to become part of the pets and a protector. I have seen them on the rescue sites as well as from breeders, range from $400 to $2000 or more, with pedigrees and papers.

The rescues do a noble and necessary service, although I find myself barely able to meet their standards to have a GP in my home for one reason or another. Just read their homestudy requirements and you'll find out.

It was actually easier to adopt my children - and I'm not kidding. The living situation in our home itself was much less critical and specific for children than the evaluation process is for GP's. (They didnt shake my gate, and I'm a Social Worker by profession, it's not something I do either) Here is a copy of the Home inspection guidelines, which make sense, but whew....I'm just gonna get a puppy!

Updated 8/16/01 1

GPRNC Home Inspection Guidelines
It is presumed that this guide will be used after a prospective foster or adopting family has been approved by
GPRNC. This form is only a guide to check the conditions at the prospective home for any potential problem
areas that could cause harm to the dog or allow it to escape. Ideally, you are looking for a situation that you
would feel comfortable leaving your own dog in! “Gut” feelings can often be very reliable indicators.
1. Initial observation of house (exterior) and neighborhood.
a. Look for any other neighborhood animals that may interact.
b. Check traffic conditions or geographical conditions that may be of concern.
c. Is the prospective home well cared for?
d. Are there fences, walls or gates to keep the dog away from the street / or contained in a yard?
e. What kinds of latches are on the gates?
f. Could the dog dislodge or open the gate by accident?
g. Is the swelling a single family home, or does it share a “common” area with other homes?
2. Initial observation of house (interior).
a. Where will the dog be allowed in the house?
b. What type of flooring (some Pyrs can have trouble with slick surfaces such as linoleum, tile or
hardwood)?
c. Will the dog be allowed on the furniture/beds? Trouble areas?
d. Can the dog be easily confined to part of the home?
e. Are there “out of bounds” areas? (Baby gate solution).
3. Details about the home and family.
a. Are there children in the home? Ages? Behavior (especially with the other pets in the home)?
b. Are they able to be responsible with the dog?
c. Are there other family members / roommates? Are they to be responsible for the dog?
d. Are there other pets in the home? What is their condition? (Appearance, grooming, over/under weight,
collars/tags, etc.)?
e. Age / Gender of other pets? If these pets are dogs, are they dominant/aggressive?
f. How are the other pets or children treated? Are they treated with respect? How are they disciplined?
4. Housing / Sleeping for the dog.
a. Is there a special room / place where the dog will be kept during the day? Night?
b. Where will the dog sleep?
c. Are these areas free of poisons, chemicals and cleaning supplies?
d. Will there be food stored in this area? Safe from the dog?
e. Can the dog cause damage to important items by chewing or scratching?
f. Are there shelves that could fall in the dog were to jump?
g. Will the dog be crated at night or while the family is away?
h. If not, why not? Explain the benefits of crate training if appropriate.
i. Will the dog be left unattended in the yard? Loose or tied?
j. Will barking be a problem with neighbors?
k. Is there an “exercise” area accessible to the dog?
5. Exterior House / Yard Examination.
a. Is there a pool or hot tub? Is it securely fenced? Is there a cover? Can it support the weight of the dog?
Is the family willing to train the dog how to get out of the pool or hot tub “just in case”?
b. Is there a run or kennel? Condition? Type of enclosure? Safe?
Updated 8/16/01 2
c. Fences should be a minimum of 6’ wood or chain link or horse fencing. Are fences / gates in good
condition? (Grab the fence and shake it HARD! Look for loose boards, gaps, and type of construction.
Watch for areas where digging could create a problem. Check behind bushes and in other “out of the
way” places.
d. Check gate latches carefully. Can the dog dislodge them?
e. Are there gaps or holes where the dog could catch its head or collar?
f. Look at plant material in the yard. Are there any poisonous/toxic (to dogs) plants? This is not a
complete list but these are more commonly encountered:
i) Avocado (seeds)
ii) Azalea (Rhododendron)
iii) Bird-of-Paradise
iv) Buckeye (seeds)
v) Cyclamen
vi) Daffodil (bulbs)
vii) Eggplant
viii) Foxglove (Digitalis)
ix) Hydrangea
x) Larkspur (Delphinium)
xi) Laurel
xii) Lily of the Valley
xiii) Lupine
xiv) Mushrooms
xv) Narcissus
xvi) Oleander
xvii) Philodendron
xviii) Poinsettia
xix) Potato
xx) Tomato
Are there any chemicals used for the garden? Can the dog be kept from these areas?
6. Transportation.
a. What kind of vehicle(s)? How will the dog be contained? (Recommend crates/veri-kennels).

Tina/tfpets
 
So if you adopt from them you could not have a garden with tomatoes or eggplants? Please! I have two GPs one is grown the other a pup. You do have to make sure they are chicken friendly. I have never had my dog pick my tomatoes or eggplants so no problem there. I don't adopt dogs for those crazy list of things. I do not like to live under a microscope. For those who feel it is not an issue then go for it. They are wonderful dogs with huge barks even as pups. They are very loving and loyal dogs but you have to make sure they know where home is and is not. You have only talk loud and firm and they know they have done wrong just by that. Great dogs wish you well with your new dog Chicky Joy......
 

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