Great Pyrenees livestock guardian

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I have no problem with hot wire, stationary electric fence etc. the dog gets that the fence bites. Collars are different, the dog doesn't know where it came from, so the risk of missasociation is high. It has been proven over and ove r that shock collars escalte aggression and anxiety.
The average person doesn't have the knowledge or timing to use a collar properly.
 
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I just wanted to point out one thing: the methods listed here ARE cruel and pointless. The dog doesn't learn anything except fear and perhaps that humans are crazy. Dogs don't get housebroken because you rubbed their nose in pee. They learn that you don't like pee and that you get angry and cause them pain. Has the dog learned to pee outside? No. He just learns to pee in a place where you won't find it. Or that when you come home he should run and hide because you are going to scream and hit him.

I am a HUGE fan of the rolled-up newspaper method though. Any time you see that the dog has done something wrong, take a rolled up newspaper and bash yourself violently around the head and neck while screaming "Stupid owner for not supervising the dog"

*supervising doesn't mean watching him 24/7. It also means making sure he is in a safe place where he can't get into trouble when you CAN'T watch him
 
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I just wanted to point out one thing: the methods listed here ARE cruel and pointless. The dog doesn't learn anything except fear and perhaps that humans are crazy. Dogs don't get housebroken because you rubbed their nose in pee. They learn that you don't like pee and that you get angry and cause them pain. Has the dog learned to pee outside? No. He just learns to pee in a place where you won't find it. Or that when you come home he should run and hide because you are going to scream and hit him.

I am a HUGE fan of the rolled-up newspaper method though. Any time you see that the dog has done something wrong, take a rolled up newspaper and bash yourself violently around the head and neck while screaming "Stupid owner for not supervising the dog"

*supervising doesn't mean watching him 24/7. It also means making sure he is in a safe place where he can't get into trouble when you CAN'T watch him

True enough. I have learned with the shock collar that the dogs that WERE aggressive to the chickens and cats, aren't.

I have learned that through 2 days, about 5 minutes each day, that my dogs come when I call them, although it is time for some retraining because if they get out of sight, they are gone for hours.

I have learned that through all my "cruelty", my dogs still wriggle with joy when I come home, and after doing their business, love to curl up with me as I watch TV, and share my bed with me when I sleep there.

I might add, these are not small dogs. One is a Great Pyrenees/ Boxer Mix, and one is a 11 month old English Mastiff.... I don't need blankets.
 
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Feeding chicken does not make a dog eat live chickens. Throughout history, farmers have fed their dogs whatever livestock they raised. Sheep farmers dogs ate sheep, etc. Farmers didn't go buy dog food, nor special meats for their dogs.

Good point. However, throughout history they spent their life on the farm training their animals and the "bad dogs" were typically shot...
 
raw-fed dogs are NOT dangerous to livestock. It's not like people take a living chicken/sheep/duck and throw it into the pen with the dog so that it can kill it's own food.

Shoot, people don't even realize that the styrofoam package in the freezer caase used to be a living animal. You think dogs make the connection between a living breathing feathered chicken and a piece of meat?
 
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Feeding chicken does not make a dog eat live chickens. Throughout history, farmers have fed their dogs whatever livestock they raised. Sheep farmers dogs ate sheep, etc. Farmers didn't go buy dog food, nor special meats for their dogs.

Good point. However, throughout history they spent their life on the farm training their animals and the "bad dogs" were typically shot...

That's cruel...... LMBO!
 
In OP's case, it's a PUPPY, a 9 month old PUPPY, it's going to act like a PUPPY, now if she wants a completely human fearful dog like everyone seems to think great pyr. are supposed to be, sure go ahead, shock the crap out of the dog, beat it, and then she gets attacked or bitten by her own dog. then, well, so be it. and if said humans fearful dog needs to go to the vet, what are you supposed to do with Great pyr.s? let them croak in a field??

Once again you show you know nothing at all about raising and training LGDs

That's not saying you are "stupid"
It's saying you are ignorant about LGDs.

a truely STUBBORN and willful dog will go beyond you no matter WHERE you are, right there, or not, it WILL go on with it's actions if it wants to, certainly if the dog is loose, now I believe I stated that the dog should be on a lead, did I not?

Yes, you stated that several times even though it will do nothing at all to solve the problem, since an LGD CANNOT be kept on a lead and perform their job.​
 
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Yes, a verbal correction should, ideally, be sufficient. But all too often it is not. We don't know what kind of working relationship -- if any-- the OP has with her dog. I have also seen that LDG are sensitive dogs, espeically the rescues I have seen in the Shelter and rescues I have done behavior work with. You have good working relationships with your dogs, but many of these owners do not.

If this were another context, say obedience training, or agility, and the owner and dog were lacking a connection, would you say to shock them? No, you'd say work on the relationship, right? Same thing here. Take the dog out of the position where he is going to make mistakes, and work on the relationship. It has been hindered by the lack of mobility on the owners part, but that t. That can be overcome in time.

No, I wouldn't suggest a shock collar. I never said this particular situation required one, I only said it might be a good idea.
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Yes the OP needs to work on the relationship with their dog and supervise more, if that is not possible at this time the OP should take the dog out of the situation until said time when training can take place. We are on the same page
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I personally have no problem with the use of a shock collar, if used correctly. I likE the kind that has the beep tone, the vibrate and then the levels of correction. If the dog starts killing and is a puppy, I will pick up the bird ....show it too the dog.... Say bad dog..... Bad.... Then place them on a Run for a few days.
If the dog is older, I will use a collar. It is hard to correct a dog a few acres away with a verbal command if they are focused on a bird. I will use the beep when I feel that they may misbehave with a bird. If they ignore the beep they get the vibration and so on. They know the fence bites, so they associate the shock with the bird. Normally it only takes a few times and then they never need it again. I've only had to use it on one of the dogs..... The rest are good with birds, and it was with peafowl not chickens.... The dog never touched the chickens or geese...
All my dogs are good natured, and are family members also, even thou they have a job to do. I don't feel they are abused or mistrusting of me, as I have to peel them off me when I go out. ....
Now, I do train them and spend a lot of time working with them. No device can take the place of proper training, but I will use a collar if needed for correcting at a distance.
 
chickenzoo, that is exactly what the collar is for - proofing a behavior from a distance. The key, though, is that the dog has to know what is expected of them. Otherwise, how would they know what they are being corrected for?

Now, I could take my husband, slap a collar on him and put him in a kitchen. With enough shocks, he would probably figure out that I want him to take out the garbage. But it would be a lot faster if I told him what to do and then zapped him for sitting down to watch tv instead.
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