Get the wazine/piperazine at the feed store and follow the directions on the label.
Green frothy looking poo
- Thread starter chickzrule
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- #12
In my research some say not to worm them unless they have worms. I have seen no evidence that they do in fact have worms and that when you do worm them with the wazine/piperazine that you are NOT to eat the eggs for 2 wks after. Is this correct? They also said to add ground up pumpkin seeds to their diet and put DE in their food. How much De should you mix in(they are on pellets)? thxs Lisa
- May 24, 2008
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Lisa,
I do not know if and how you can get dewormers for your chickens in Canada, but there are some wonderful posts here on BYC in regards of worming. In the US you can buy most dewormers at the feed store or I order online. Remember, just because you do not see any worms, it does not mean that there are not any.
I have copied and pasted a post from another great member here on BYC who has been incredible helpful to me in the past for you:
Riven wrote:
I want to give my chickens a dewormer or general parasite control twice a year but I have some questions.
We have a large pen with a pond it in ( it's about 12' x 12' ) and they share the large pen with some call ducks.
Many deworming suggestions I've seen have been solvents in the water, but with the pond I'm not able to treat their only water source because they drink out of their water and the pond, and also I do not want the ducks to possibly get sick.
Is ivermectin my best choice? With about 25 or so it's not a big deal to treat them pour on style, but what kind do I need to get? Is there a kind of poultry? The cattle pour on? Something from the vet? The supply store?
I just want to make sure they're happy, healthy chickens and get them on a plan. They are not what I consider free range because they are penned, but I've seen people with yards smaller than their big pen! LOL
I'm looking into getting NPIP and AI tested, what other things do I need to do to keep my chickies all healthy? Thanks!
If you get the ivermectin, the pour-on is likely the one that stays on longest. I bought generic (as Ivomec is too expensive) and yes - the pour-on for cattle, the blue liquid "ivermectin" as active ingredient. You can probably get it at a feed store, or TSC. I use a 3 cc syringe and fill it, a 25 gauge needle but I don't inject it - I just use the needle because it helps me to make one drop at a time with a chicken in one hand. (I'm not good with regular droppers.) Of course, point it to the side of the chicken so if she jumps she doesn't get poked.. Then you find a place on the body where there is little fluff. My usual spot is the lower back of the neck as there is very little fluff there and what is there is usually easy to hold down with the hand holding the chicken. Make a good naked skin spot and drop the drops there. 1-6 drops.
1 drop for a bantam hen, OEGB sized bird. "micro" bantam.
2 drops for a regular OEGB sized bantam
3 drops for a regular medium bantam
4 drops for a small hen or medium bird
5 drops for the average laying hen
6 drops for a small giant breed hen or an average rooster
7 drops for giant breed
Be sure to worm with wazine first if:
- the bird hasn't been wormed in longer than 6 months with something like ivermectin (not wazine)
- the bird has an unknown worming history
- the bird is under 4 months of age
- the bird is shedding worms or very thin
Then after doing the wazine, go back in 2-4 weeks and use the ivermectin.
Alternately, there are some drenches that you can use. I'd still do Wazine first if the above apply. But if you're interested in the drench, PM me asking for a worming drench broad spectrum and I can get that information for you.
NPIP is a wonderful program. When I was showing birds, and breeding for show, I regularly had them tested and it was a pleasant experience - MOSTLY. Be sure of one thing: when the testers come by, have them park off of your property. They should be wearing foot covers and a lab coat and use gloves when testing. You can be a step ahead of them by having similar things ready. Show them that you're informed and serious about biosecurity and area good citizen in the poultry fancier world. This is very important not only for letting them know how serious you are about biosecurity, but because it's really important that they don't contaminate your flock! So just be ready for them. If you can't get some little booties for them, have a non- chlorine foot bath ready for them. And definitely gloves. And do still make them park out of your driveway. Ask them that ahead of time when you set your appointment and be kind to them; they'll understand. If they don't, if they want to come to your place when you're not there and dont' adhere to those very basic biosecurity rules of your house, then call their boss. We had a very bad tester here one year, so bad he ended up losing his job. So I learned the hard way. I wouldn't let him here without my being here, and he insisted and I simply wouldn't allow it because I couldn't monitor his biosecurity procedures.
Other things: Most of all, strictly adhere to the basics:
Strong biosecurity: always quarantine for a month before introducing new birds. try to buy only from known flocks, not marts. Vaccinated or NPIP program birds are preferred.
Feed: stick to 95% of the diet in a completely vitamin/mineral fortified feed age and use appropriate for the birds you're raising. The other 5% or so can be healthful treats that serve a purpose. Scratch should be relegated only to a tossed out treat in handfuls - as that's its design. Other whole or cracked grains with more nutrition make a great addition to that 5% of the diet.
Clean fresh water. It doesn't have to be sterile, but try to keep everything out of it unless it serves a purpose. Vitamins and minerals are best given on or via the feed unless you're treating something or just doing a tune-up occassionally. They tend to degrade in water anyway. Most of the time (other than specific situations like high heat, stress, illness, injury, etc) the water should be..... water.
The more dry and drainable the ground, the better. Sand is better than soil for keeping bacteria and parasites at bay. Compressed pine shavings are, in my opinion, way more absorbant and less likely to mildew than hay/straw. Warmth and moisture in the ground/bedding are triggers for many parasites and protazoa.
Fresh air, sunshine, and good coop ventilation are the poultry-keeper's best friends! Make sure your birds have access to plenty of all.
Don't use antibiotics in sips. In fact, don't use them unless you are pretty good and sure that not only is there something bacterial going on, but that the antibiotic you get is correct. Duramycin is NOT the cure-all your Feed Store Guy will tell you it is. Antibiotics in general are overused. Always try to rule out viral and environmental issues.
Use your feed within 1 month. Store it in a dry, air-tight, dark container in a cool place. Feed only what they'll eat in one or two days to prevent vitamin degradation and rats.
Prepare to handle predators before they become an infestation. (this lesson I learned hard this week, though thankfully not losing any birds to it).
Those are some basics that will really help.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Nathalie Ross [email protected]
(http://hoovesandfeathers.homestead.com/index.html in progress)
I do not know if and how you can get dewormers for your chickens in Canada, but there are some wonderful posts here on BYC in regards of worming. In the US you can buy most dewormers at the feed store or I order online. Remember, just because you do not see any worms, it does not mean that there are not any.
I have copied and pasted a post from another great member here on BYC who has been incredible helpful to me in the past for you:
Riven wrote:
I want to give my chickens a dewormer or general parasite control twice a year but I have some questions.
We have a large pen with a pond it in ( it's about 12' x 12' ) and they share the large pen with some call ducks.
Many deworming suggestions I've seen have been solvents in the water, but with the pond I'm not able to treat their only water source because they drink out of their water and the pond, and also I do not want the ducks to possibly get sick.
Is ivermectin my best choice? With about 25 or so it's not a big deal to treat them pour on style, but what kind do I need to get? Is there a kind of poultry? The cattle pour on? Something from the vet? The supply store?
I just want to make sure they're happy, healthy chickens and get them on a plan. They are not what I consider free range because they are penned, but I've seen people with yards smaller than their big pen! LOL
I'm looking into getting NPIP and AI tested, what other things do I need to do to keep my chickies all healthy? Thanks!
If you get the ivermectin, the pour-on is likely the one that stays on longest. I bought generic (as Ivomec is too expensive) and yes - the pour-on for cattle, the blue liquid "ivermectin" as active ingredient. You can probably get it at a feed store, or TSC. I use a 3 cc syringe and fill it, a 25 gauge needle but I don't inject it - I just use the needle because it helps me to make one drop at a time with a chicken in one hand. (I'm not good with regular droppers.) Of course, point it to the side of the chicken so if she jumps she doesn't get poked.. Then you find a place on the body where there is little fluff. My usual spot is the lower back of the neck as there is very little fluff there and what is there is usually easy to hold down with the hand holding the chicken. Make a good naked skin spot and drop the drops there. 1-6 drops.
1 drop for a bantam hen, OEGB sized bird. "micro" bantam.
2 drops for a regular OEGB sized bantam
3 drops for a regular medium bantam
4 drops for a small hen or medium bird
5 drops for the average laying hen
6 drops for a small giant breed hen or an average rooster
7 drops for giant breed
Be sure to worm with wazine first if:
- the bird hasn't been wormed in longer than 6 months with something like ivermectin (not wazine)
- the bird has an unknown worming history
- the bird is under 4 months of age
- the bird is shedding worms or very thin
Then after doing the wazine, go back in 2-4 weeks and use the ivermectin.
Alternately, there are some drenches that you can use. I'd still do Wazine first if the above apply. But if you're interested in the drench, PM me asking for a worming drench broad spectrum and I can get that information for you.
NPIP is a wonderful program. When I was showing birds, and breeding for show, I regularly had them tested and it was a pleasant experience - MOSTLY. Be sure of one thing: when the testers come by, have them park off of your property. They should be wearing foot covers and a lab coat and use gloves when testing. You can be a step ahead of them by having similar things ready. Show them that you're informed and serious about biosecurity and area good citizen in the poultry fancier world. This is very important not only for letting them know how serious you are about biosecurity, but because it's really important that they don't contaminate your flock! So just be ready for them. If you can't get some little booties for them, have a non- chlorine foot bath ready for them. And definitely gloves. And do still make them park out of your driveway. Ask them that ahead of time when you set your appointment and be kind to them; they'll understand. If they don't, if they want to come to your place when you're not there and dont' adhere to those very basic biosecurity rules of your house, then call their boss. We had a very bad tester here one year, so bad he ended up losing his job. So I learned the hard way. I wouldn't let him here without my being here, and he insisted and I simply wouldn't allow it because I couldn't monitor his biosecurity procedures.
Other things: Most of all, strictly adhere to the basics:
Strong biosecurity: always quarantine for a month before introducing new birds. try to buy only from known flocks, not marts. Vaccinated or NPIP program birds are preferred.
Feed: stick to 95% of the diet in a completely vitamin/mineral fortified feed age and use appropriate for the birds you're raising. The other 5% or so can be healthful treats that serve a purpose. Scratch should be relegated only to a tossed out treat in handfuls - as that's its design. Other whole or cracked grains with more nutrition make a great addition to that 5% of the diet.
Clean fresh water. It doesn't have to be sterile, but try to keep everything out of it unless it serves a purpose. Vitamins and minerals are best given on or via the feed unless you're treating something or just doing a tune-up occassionally. They tend to degrade in water anyway. Most of the time (other than specific situations like high heat, stress, illness, injury, etc) the water should be..... water.
The more dry and drainable the ground, the better. Sand is better than soil for keeping bacteria and parasites at bay. Compressed pine shavings are, in my opinion, way more absorbant and less likely to mildew than hay/straw. Warmth and moisture in the ground/bedding are triggers for many parasites and protazoa.
Fresh air, sunshine, and good coop ventilation are the poultry-keeper's best friends! Make sure your birds have access to plenty of all.
Don't use antibiotics in sips. In fact, don't use them unless you are pretty good and sure that not only is there something bacterial going on, but that the antibiotic you get is correct. Duramycin is NOT the cure-all your Feed Store Guy will tell you it is. Antibiotics in general are overused. Always try to rule out viral and environmental issues.
Use your feed within 1 month. Store it in a dry, air-tight, dark container in a cool place. Feed only what they'll eat in one or two days to prevent vitamin degradation and rats.
Prepare to handle predators before they become an infestation. (this lesson I learned hard this week, though thankfully not losing any birds to it).
Those are some basics that will really help.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Nathalie Ross [email protected]
(http://hoovesandfeathers.homestead.com/index.html in progress)
Quote:
How do you breed for worm tolerance? I have never heard of something like that. Do you have any referrals to scientific studies or articles on this?
Thank You.
I haven't done it with my chooks because I'm not that worried about it. I have fecals done occasionaly and if they need to be wormed I use wazine--I don't worm on a schedule, but it doesn't bother me to use the wazine when they need it.
What I meant by breeding for worm tolerence is that any animal that gets run down from worms is removed from your breeding program. Eventually you'll end up with a flock that is much less likely to have problems with worms then the average. They'll still have worms, but they tolerate them better. I don't have any links handy for you, but you should come up with some stuff if you google "breeding for worm tolerence" though you'll probably find more goat related articles (what I was researching back when) then chicken ones. Best of luck.
ETA: Forgot to add that if you go this route you don't worm them at all though preventitives like the acv, pumpkin (heard that works, but..??) DE, etc. are fine. It's definetly a survival of the fittest kind of thing.
How do you breed for worm tolerance? I have never heard of something like that. Do you have any referrals to scientific studies or articles on this?
Thank You.
I haven't done it with my chooks because I'm not that worried about it. I have fecals done occasionaly and if they need to be wormed I use wazine--I don't worm on a schedule, but it doesn't bother me to use the wazine when they need it.
What I meant by breeding for worm tolerence is that any animal that gets run down from worms is removed from your breeding program. Eventually you'll end up with a flock that is much less likely to have problems with worms then the average. They'll still have worms, but they tolerate them better. I don't have any links handy for you, but you should come up with some stuff if you google "breeding for worm tolerence" though you'll probably find more goat related articles (what I was researching back when) then chicken ones. Best of luck.
ETA: Forgot to add that if you go this route you don't worm them at all though preventitives like the acv, pumpkin (heard that works, but..??) DE, etc. are fine. It's definetly a survival of the fittest kind of thing.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #15
Well, seems there are some things to think about! I am new to the chicken thing and only want to do what is best for our girls!! I will try to find some natural products(flubenvet or verm-x but not sure if they are in Canada) to treat them first and will give them the ACV, DE, and pumpkin seeds as well. I had no idea there are all these potential issues you need to concider when you have chickens. Me and the ladies really appreciate all the suggestions you have given!
thxs Lisa
- Thread starter
- #16
Looks like after speaking to a poultry expert that i am going to worm my girls with Piperazine. It is a one day powder you put in their water that's supposed to be relatively safe and you can eat the eggs after. He said that all chickens if they are in dirt will get worms at some point so it's a good idea to treat them. He also said to mix some DE into their feed(a little at a time as they don't like the taste) and give them the ACV as well. This should keep them at bay until you worm them every Spring and Fall. Well i'm glad i got to talk to him and him explain what and why i should de-worm them! Hope this helps others! Lisa
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #17
How much Piperazine should i mix up for the chickens in water? It says that 400g should be mixed in with 325L of water for 1250 layers. We only have 12 layers so how much water and how much of the powdered Piperazine? I don't want to poison the girls so the measurement must be proper!!!
I havnt used powdered Piperazine52, ask your poultry expert. We all basically told you the same thing from the beginning!
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #19
Sorry if i" ruffled"any feathers by not immediately applying any advice that was given on hear until i had spoken to an expert, that was not my intention! I wanted to speak to someone on the phone who lives in my area (45min chat) who could answer all of my questions more in depth and explain reasons why since i got so many different answers from people all over the world(i really wanted something natural but now i understand why i need the Piperazine). I did find out the amount of Piperaziine powder to mix in water. My product is called DVL Piperazine Dihyrochloride 53% and i figure if my 12 girls drink 3L of water a day then i would mix 1 tsp of powder in. So 1tsp Peperazine in 3L of water. Hope this helps and thanks again for all that have given me advice, i really do appreciate it!
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