Hatching eggs from older hens?

[Dona Worry]

Are there any guidelines on how old is too old for a successful hatch? I'd like to hatch some eggs this spring/summer from my old hen Susan for sentimental reasons.
She successfully hatched 3 of her own eggs as recently as August, and she is still laying about 3 eggs a week. She is probably around 4 years old, maybe even older. I've heard of several tips, such as adding vitamin supplements to the water and a high protein diet for overall hatch rates, but are there any tips specifically for old hens?

 

[HuffleClaw]

I hatched eggs in 2016 from my 4 (now about 6) year old blue orp hen and 3 of which were hers, the 2 that were fertile hatched just like the rest did and thrived the same.

 

[red horse ranch]

My old Australorp hen was 6 years old when I got the last chick from her. I often get chicks from 4 and 5 year old hens. I always add a vitamin mineral supplement to the main waterer for a month or so before collecting eggs to hatch.

 

[ChickenCanoe]

I really don't think 4 is very old for a healthy hen.
I do start a regimen of adding Nutri-Drench to the water every other day for 2 weeks before beginning to collect eggs for hatching. About a teaspoon per gallon.
Be judicious about protein. The crude protein (what is listed on the bag of feed) is less important than the various amino acids which aren't listed except lysine and methionine. Excesses of some amino acids can actually cause some embryonic deformities.
17% crude protein - if balanced in amino acids - is adequate for breeding hens.

 

[EggSighted4Life]

17% crude protein - if balanced in amino acids - is adequate for breeding hens.

You feel that's true regardless of breed type?

I recently bought Rooster Booster (brand) Poultry Cell (product)... No results yet... but I THINK I will like it better than the nutri drench (also on hand) though it doesn't mix as well. I haven't done any supplementing for previous hatches, but think I will go with the two week mark... every other day, or waterer, or something to that effect.

 

[ChickenCanoe]

Breed type, meat vs. egg type does bring into the discussion some variables. Those being mostly amino acids. I think those variables are pretty insignificant since recommending anything for small holders who don't have a means of assaying all the feedstuffs they are providing daily wouldn't be prudent. Recommended vitamin and mineral content would be consistent between breed types.
I haven't looked at Poultry Cell. Does it have the same blend of vitamins, minerals and amino acids that Nutri-Drench contain?

Regardless of type, IMHO, they are all gallus gallus domesticus. In the egg, the embryo isn't going to have any different needs from breed to breed.

 

[ChickenCanoe]

I would like to add that older birds don't assimilate vitamins and minerals as readily, so upping those things in the diet wouldn't hurt their health or the hatchability of eggs.
I do believe in the mantras, all things in moderation and too much of a good thing is a bad thing.
That's why I'm very cautious about saying one must provide this or that supplement.

 

[EggSighted4Life]

I haven't looked at Poultry Cell. Does it have the same blend of vitamins, minerals and amino acids that Nutri-Drench contain?

No, I wouldn't say the same.. it "seems" to have MUCH more things available, as far as I can tell.

As you stated.. too much of some things are not desirable. I would love to get your opinion on it, should you decide to check it out!

I try to go with... I used formulated ration and supplementing *shouldn't* be needed if not diminished by treats... And I had great hatches all last year... But I do realize that some individuals utilize things more effective... and then I want to say survival of the fittest among my flock, so I get the strongest gene pool... BUT, somehow I still bought the supplement!

 

[ChickenCanoe]

No, I wouldn't say the same.. it "seems" to have MUCH more things available, as far as I can tell.

As you stated.. too much of some things are not desirable. I would love to get your opinion on it, should you decide to check it out!

I try to go with... I used formulated ration and supplementing *shouldn't* be needed if not diminished by treats... And I had great hatches all last year... But I do realize that some individuals utilize things more effective... and then I want to say survival of the fittest among my flock, so I get the strongest gene pool... BUT, somehow I still bought the supplement!

I don't think having a supplement on hand is ever a bad idea when one thinks it may be necessary.
Having good hatch rates is a good indicator of your management skills.

I also feel that layer feeds, for example, are adequate for producing eating eggs but may not be sufficient nutritionally for strong hatchability.

 

[Dona Worry]

Be judicious about protein. The crude protein (what is listed on the bag of feed) is less important than the various amino acids which aren't listed except lysine and methionine. Excesses of some amino acids can actually cause some embryonic deformities.

Can you elaborate on this a little?