Hatching unhappiness

chickencoopwilkins

Hatching
9 Years
May 13, 2010
9
0
7
Hey all, I am new to the forum and looking for some help. I have a LG still air bator and not so good luck!! I am using the thermometer that came with it. I have compared it with another thermometer and it seems pretty accurate. From reading other posts, I believe my humidity is low so I will work on that! I can only turn the eggs twice a day with about 12 hours in between turns. I do not know if that is part of the problem. If it is, I can get the egg turner for it. I keep the temp at 100 degrees and it stays pretty stable. My last trying was with 15 eggs, 12 from a friend and 3 of my own, only 1 hatched and died 2 days later. Time before that was 6 eggs with 2 hatching and 1 dying with deformed legs. I think that is the humidity problem. The shell seems to be sticking to the chicks and causing problems. In my last attempt, I waited 25 days (which was today) before cutting off the incubator. I broke open the remaining 14 eggs and they looked liked regular eggs with yolk and all!! Is that a rooster not fertilizing?? I have two roosters with my hens and they are working!! I tried my friends eggs because I didn't know if I had a fertilizing problem, but when I could not get his eggs to hatch I thought I maybe doing something wrong. Both our chickens came from the same local store. I do not know if that maybe the problem or not. Thanks for the help and a great site!!
 
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Ok do you have a humidity gauge (hygrometer)? That is the first place to start. The next place to go is to your local feed store and get a hovabator, or a different one.
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I have heard nothing but horror stories with the LG.
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I do not have a humidity gauge. Gonna get one though!! I have seen troubled posts about the LG, but as long as it keeps correct temps. it should be doing its job, right?? Thanks for the reply!!
 
That not true at all!!! If your humidity is way off they will quit during lockdown, being either too dry to hatch or drown from too much humidity. Get yer butt down to PetSmart and get a $3 reptile hygrometer. Before you try again!! Do you know how to calibratet eh hygrometer?
 
I think the other problem with the LG is the still air part. There are hot spots under. Especially underneath the heating element. I have an LG still air, but I only use it as a hatcher. I fill the water up all the way and still have to put in a wet sponge to get the humidity up where it should be.
 
debiraymond, I am going to get that hygrometer!! I do not know how to calibrate it. It should have instructions or the sales person should know, right?? From what I have read in other posts, it should be around 70% during lock down, right?

faykokoWV, what do you mean you only use it as a hatcher?? I have read about the sponge for the humidity. Should I put a fan in it for the hot spots?

Thanks for the quick replies!!
 
Quote:
To calibrate a hygrometer: place a coffee mug with 1/2 cup of salt and 1/4 cup of water inside a large baggie. Place the hygrometer next to it and seal the baggie. 12 hours later that hygrometer SHOULD read 75%, but mostly likely won't. If it says that it is 70%, then you need to INCREASE humidity 5% extra. If it reads 80% DECREASE humidity 5%, etc. I do my best to stay at 65% - higher seems to drown them.

I also use sponges at lockdown, and a sock soaked with water - then again I live in a very dry climate.
 
With practice you will learn to use your L G with good hatch rates. But the first thing you must do is get a good therometer and hygrometer. For the first 18 days keep the humidity no higher than 40%, best is 30%, then kick the humidity up to 60% for the last three days. Once the chicks start hatching the humidity will sky rocket. Not really a problem unless it stays there for hours. This is natural because of the moisture coming from in the egg. With the still air the temperture should be 101.5*. Make sure the red plugs are open. I use these plugs as a control for temperture and humidity control. One thing most don't think of, is there are air holes on the bottom of the bator. Try setting the bator on a 1" x 1" pieces of wood front and back. If you are using a turner, be sure the cord is in the slot at the back of the bator. Keep the bator closed as much as possible. Then after a hundred or so hatches you will average a 90% hatch rate with this bator. Sure it would be nice if everyone could have a nice new Sportsman. But we know that is not going to happen. It is not all in the bator, the operator has alot to do with a successful hatch. With that many under developed eggs, it sounds more like a fertility problem. There should be more than just yolk in the eggs.
 
If your incubator is maintaining a consistant temp I would not get a new one. If you get a hovabator don't get model 1602. that's what I have and I have to adjust the thermostate several times every day to adjust for spikes and drops. It's a lot of work. I didn't stress over keeping an exact humidity reading. As long as it was between 25 and 40% for the first 17 days I was ok with it. I waited until it got down to 25 before I put more water in it. At lockdown I kept the humidity at 60-65. If it got low I just poured some hot water through the hole for the electical cord of the egg turner. (the turner was out by this time). today was day 20 and two have hatched already, two more have piped and there are a lot of eggs moving. I don't think they will all hatch because of the temp fluxuations during the entire time but the humidity seemed to be right for the entire hatch.
 
panner123, thanks for the info!! I have the bator sitting on a Black and Decker Workmate project thing. Should have plenty air coming from the bottom holes. Temps stay pretty consistent at 100 degrees. The humidity I believe is a problem, but I am going to get a hygrometer to help with that. I really think the bator is doing its job, the problem lies between me and the roosters! How can one tell if the roosters are fertilizing?? Thanks so much for the help everybody!!
 

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