Have a real dark egg anyone have suggestions?

[mswendeu]

 

[mswendeu]

I need it to finish hatching all the way because it's got dried membrane everywhere. I tried wetting the qtip with warm water so it can open its eyes cause they were dried sticky shut. That prompted it to pull itsself further out of the shell but it is still attached as shown in the pictures above.
I'm not sure if that is or was yolk or not it is dry and looked flat before it started to struggle itself free.

 

[Blooie]

 

[Greyfeathers]

Agreeing with the "on the side" candling. I've been using the "bators" for years for hatching. I use both the forced fan and the original although there's more work to the original. To make it easier to view the inside while candling..get a thick piece of cardboard and cut a little hole in it..different size hole for different size eggs. Prolly about half inch for geese. Put the egg sideways on top, then strong light underneath (don't use something with high heat). You can clearly see the inside of the egg. I always candle about 10 days out of incubation. If they are clear after 20 days..you have a dud.
Also....I rarely incubate duck eggs at same time with goose or any larger fowl. They incubate at different rates and humidity. Make SURE you have the enough for geese eggs and larger fowl such as turkeys. Otherwise, the egg shell hardens to the point that the chick cannot pip through for that first breath or have enough strength to break the circle in order to escape. I think that type of bator has two "troughs" where you add water. Make sure both have water in them after the first week, if I remember correctly. Remember that you have the outside air vents closed off during a certain time.

Something else that might help is to mark the eggs before placement in the incubator. I use a straight line for one side (this is on the sides..not ends), to indicate the side up for night time (as in eyes closed)..then a circle on the other side (as in eyes open in day time). You just turn the eggs twice a day...like 12 hours to ensure the egg incubates uniformly. Otherwise, you can end up with disabled chicks who are deformed with twisted legs or body. Don't want that to happen. Good luck on the hatching..always rewarding to hear the peeps when they are nearing hatch time. You might want to start peeping to them or what ever sound you want them to recognize about a week before they hatch. I do this with a certain whistle and all the babies recognize that sound after they hatch, right through adulthood. I use my whistle especially for hatching birds who do not have their eyes open or have feathers so they know me when I'm there to feed them. They respond much more easily by hearing that whistle before hatch time. If you are anything like I was the first time I incubated..I wore a path in the floor pacing constantly back and forth to the chair to the incubator.....lol. Make sure you rest well and have fun.

 

[AmyLynn2374]

I'm lost now.

 

[mswendeu]

I'm lost now.

Why?

It's out but still not all the way. It's peeping though. Or was a minute ago anyway. It needs a serious bath when it detaches because its gooey and has stuff stuck everywhere to it.

 

[Greyfeathers]

I forgot a couple of things. When they are hatching..if for some reason you need to help them out.... do NOT pull them from the yolk. If there is yolk, keep the chick attached and keep them from moving out of the shell piece until they feed off that yolk. Sometimes you have to help them crack that shell, especially if there wasn't enough moisture in the incubator. Large eggs like geese..you can even sponge them down to keep them from drying out. Usually if using a hovabator, you need to use a "spacer" on top of the regular bator to add the space needed for such large eggs. This ensure there isn't too much heat directed to the ends of the eggs.
I also forgot to mention, when placing the eggs in the bator..use the wire hardware cloth type of material so the eggs don't roll..and keep the narrow end pointed in a downward position which is more natural for them. Not put them on end lol but just have the pointy end down lower than the large end.

I see the pics now..don't know why I didn't see them earlier..lol. Another tip for next time..if you have a finely cracked egg..where the membrane isn't broken..you can take an egg from the kitchen and use the white part of it to seal shut the fine crack. I've had pretty good success with this..not 100 percent but then..the only thing that is 100 percent is uncertainty.

 

[mswendeu]

Where is that thread about the navel....

 

[Greyfeathers]

I just read that the one hatching needs " a serious bath". Please DO NOT bathe it. Just use the swab with a bit of warm water..and carefully work off the goo..where did the goo come from? Most of the time, the chick will remove the debri itself. If you wet the baby down, you risk the babies health before it has a chance. You do need to keep it in a warm environment for some time..since it has had difficulty from the start. Remember..the biggest killer of birds is some kind of lung infection. They have TWO sets of lungs...so doubly difficult for them to overcome what we think of as a cold, is deadly for them.

 

[Blooie]

Um, Greyfeathers, with all due respect you really should read the thread from the beginning, or at least a few pages back when she started having trouble with this particular chick hatching. She is trying to help it finish because it is having difficulty, and the membranes have dried out in the process. Two sets of lungs? I don't think I ever heard of that before.