Heating Lamp in winter?

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I make sure the lamp is secured in at least 3 ways with wires and bungees. I only turn it on when the outside temp is in the teens or below. Most of the time the chickens, guineas and peafowl produce enough heat from their bodies to keep the inside temp above freezing.
I've read that a full size chicken will produce the same amount of heat as a 40 watt light bulb. ;)
p.s. I rarely use more than a 100 watt heat bulb in the lamp unless it is way below zero. Then I might use a 150 watt heat bulb.
 
I reckon with three figures...
Number of Chickens.
Cubic feet of coop.
And vent CFM. (Cubic feet per minute)

You can figure a perfect situation.

For instance, my 2 hens won't sufficiently heat a walk-in sized coop.
But they can fog up say, an aquarium.

That middle ground is where you want to be. Goldilocks.

Assuming of course you're not keeping Jungle birds in the Arctic.

Sorce
 
You can not accurately use a gauge to calculate the ventilation in a coop via vent openings with windows and doors. Reading will always change with different outdoor conditions. That gauge can only be accurately used for a fan based system which will always have a constant cfm flow.
 
My brother lives in Northern Michigan. His wife did put a heat lamp in their coop when they were having single digit temperatures.
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Do you have any tips on how to keep the heating lamp from falling?

We used chain to attach to the heat lamp on each side. The chain is attached to the rafters.

we also use a programmable thermostat that tells the heat lamp to turn in when the temp reaches a certain threshold. For us, it is set to turn on at or below 15F. It comes with a thermometer in a wire. We put the thermometer at the height of the middle roost (we have ladder style roosts). Then it turns on when the temp at roost level is whatever we determined.
 
If you get a shatter resistant bulb make sure it isn't Teflon coated. Teflon can release fumes when it reaches a certain temperature that can be toxic to chickens.
 

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