Help did I ruin my hatch with wrong temperature??

Thermal stratification. Heat rises.
I think 102 is too high. It should be 100.5 in a still air if measured at the top of the egg.
Depending on accuracy I am scared of anything that close to 104. That will kill embryos.
If one is not positive their measurement devises are accurate, it is best to err on the low side. 4F low may not be optimal but won't be as problematic as 4F high.
Our advice assumes one has guaranteed accurate thermometers. Most people don't.
100.5 at the top of the egg assumes the temperature at the middle of the egg will be at 99.5.
 
Thermal stratification. Heat rises.
I think 102 is too high. It should be 100.5 in a still air if measured at the top of the egg.
Depending on accuracy I am scared of anything that close to 104. That will kill.
100.5 at the top of the egg assumes the temperature at the middle of the egg will be at 99.5.
Actually still air is a constant 101 and forced can fluctuate between 99 and 100.. Over heated eggs don't hatch well.
 
Actually still air is a constant 101 and forced can fluctuate between 99 and 100.. Over heated eggs don't hatch well.
I think we're saying the same thing. In a still air, where the thermometer is located makes all the difference, as does the size of the egg. Measured at the top of a goose egg is completely different than at the top of a serama egg.
Measuring on the floor of a still air will yield a dramatically different number.
Just saying a still air needs to be at 101 or 102 and not specifying that should be measured at the top of the egg and then if the thermometer is off by 2F, (which is common) will doom the entire hatch.
101 on the floor with a thermometer that reads 2F low likely won't have any hatch.
 
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Why I asked what they are hatching?...:idunno
We are hatching lots of different Silkie mixes. Most are full sized eggs and a few are bantam. All of them are mixed w/ my Silkie roo and the mixes of hens include; frizzled Cochin, EE, Andalusian, Australorp, Maran, Orpington, Welsummer, Delaware, and Sebright. This was just an experimental hatch as it is one of my first times incubating and with this group of chickens.
 
Why is that?
Circulated air creates a convection which translates to SEEMING warmer. Hmm, I don't know exactly how to explain this. But still air I use 102 and circulated air 99.5-100, as I learned when researching hatch the first time. And I hatch consistently on day 21.

In the same manner if I use the convection function on my oven for baking it automatically adjust the temperature down by 25 degrees F. Yet also slightly decreases need cooking time. :cool:

Not sure I think it is still air, does forced air mean there is a fan?
Did you figure out if your bator is circulated (forced) or still (no fan) for sure yet?
 
Circulated air creates a convection which translates to SEEMING warmer. ...QUOTE]
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Hot air rises so it thermally stratifies. When measuring temperature in still air, the more elevated the thermometer, the hotter it will read. Near the floor of the incubator, it is much cooler.
That's why in a still air we measure at the top of the egg assuming that the top will be hotter than the middle and we want that measurement to be a degree higher than in circulated air. That assumption is that the middle of the egg(where the embryo is) will be at the proper temperature

In forced air, we assume good circulation to achieve the same temperature throughout the incubator at all levels. In reality there will still be warm and cool spots but for these reasons, you can't make a cabinet incubator without fans.
 
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I found through another post that the eggs were not developing when I candled them and I threw them away. It sucks but oh well I'l try again another day maybe, I don't know this stuff is too complicated for me. Thanks for all the help and tips everyone I'll definitely take them into account if I incubate again.
 

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