Help! Lethargic hen, not eating!

[shadow rabbit10]

I have liquid Corid, but most stores only have powder, so I think your best bet would be to put the powder in their drinking water, but give the wormer orally. When I give it to my hen I use two separate syringes, one with Corid, one with wormer.

-Kathy

I was planning on mixing the powder corrid into the water. I'll try to feed the wormer orally, but if for some reason they refuse to take it, would it be safe to mix the two? Also, I'm pretty sure I can't eat the eggs while they're being medicated, correct? Thanks for the help.

 

[casportpony]

They might not drink the water with wormer and Corid, so find a way to worm them orally, it's not that hard.

• If possible, consult your veterinarian.
• Do not attempt if you cannot safely and gently carry and restrain your bird.
• Do not attempt if bird's crop is full of water as aspiration can occur from handling.
• Do not attempt until you know the difference between the oesophagus and the trachea.
• Do not do if your bird is molting.

• Choose your mg/kg of fenbendazole, liquid or paste. I do 50mg/kg

From:http://www.hopkinslivestock.com/oral_dosing_article.htm
The hole at the back of the tongue is the trachea - Nothing should ever go in there!

• Get your supplies ready

• Catch and weigh your bird.

• Calculate dose and prepare one or more syringes. Please note that this method will work for those who use a 1cc/ml syringe. Anything larger is too big and IMNSHO, not safe!

Please note that I was the one holding the bird and taking the pictures, please use both hands!

• Hold bird - I like to sit with my thighs parallel to the ground, feet firmly on ground and the bird in my lap. I hold it gently, but firmly and grab the head.

• Open mouth and wait for bird to relax.

• Insert syringe - I like to insert from left to right, across the tongue, behind the trachea, into the oesophagus. Again, wait for the bird to relax.

• Give wormer

• Repeat in ten days.

 

[shadow rabbit10]

They might not drink the water with wormer and Corid, so find a way to worm them orally, it's not that hard.

So the wormer is injected on the side of the tongue? And once the medication period is over, how can I get the parasite out of the environment? I have read that 10% ammonia kills it, but is that safe to pour into their run area?

 

[dawg53]

Quote:

So the wormer is injected on the side of the tongue? And once the medication period is over, how can I get the parasite out of the environment? I have read that 10% ammonia kills it, but is that safe to pour into their run area?

You can disinfect waterers/feeders, inside the coop/roosts and nests with ammonia/water mixture for cocci. You cant eradicate cocci nor worm oocysts from the soil/grass etc...
A regular worming schedule is best, you'll need to rotate wormers.

 

[shadow rabbit10]

You can disinfect waterers/feeders, inside the coop/roosts and nests with ammonia/water mixture for cocci. You cant eradicate cocci nor worm oocysts from the soil/grass etc...
A regular worming schedule is best, you'll need to rotate wormers.

Thanks. So the wormer will prevent cocci from appearing as well? How often should I worm? Once every few weeks?

 

[ten chicks]

Thanks. So the wormer will prevent cocci from appearing as well? How often should I worm? Once every few weeks?

No, worming medication treats worms,will NOT treat Coccidiosis.

 

[casportpony]

No, worming medication treats worms,will NOT treat Coccidiosis.

X2.

I guess I should have stated why I was treating my hen with both... My hen had some funny looking poop w/blood and what looked like vent gleet, so I decided to treat her for the easy stuff first, it's really just an experiment. Today is day three of treatment and the blood is gone, but I'll never know if it was worms or coccidiosis.

-Kathy

 

[shadow rabbit10]

X2.

I guess I should have stated why I was treating my hen with both... My hen had some funny looking poop w/blood and what looked like vent gleet, so I decided to treat her for the easy stuff first, it's really just an experiment. Today is day three of treatment and the blood is gone, but I'll never know if it was worms or coccidiosis.

-Kathy

Ah. So it could be either. The only way to tell would probably be a fecal test, huh?

Thanks everyone for the help. But, I have one more question... I just got a young, 2 month old chick and I will be getting a partner for her. I was planning on adding them to my flock when they are older (they have been in quarantine and I have been washing my hands between touching the flock and the young bird). They have been eating medicated feed. Is it safe to move them with the flock, knowing that the parasite is in the environment, or should I return the chicks to the owner?

 

[casportpony]

Ah. So it could be either. The only way to tell would probably be a fecal test, huh?

Thanks everyone for the help. But, I have one more question... I just got a young, 2 month old chick and I will be getting a partner for her. I was planning on adding them to my flock when they are older (they have been in quarantine and I have been washing my hands between touching the flock and the young bird). They have been eating medicated feed. Is it safe to move them with the flock, knowing that the parasite is in the environment, or should I return the chicks to the owner?

Yes, it could be either, maybe even both. If it isn't, it could be other things, but be-worming and treating for coccidiosis are two very safe things to try, so that's why I suggested it. Sorry I wasn't clear about it, I seem to do that a lot lately, lol.

I wouldn't want to waste money on fecal tests since false negatives are common.

FYI, if your chickens touch the ground, they'll eventually get worms, so I see no reason to return the chicks if they're healthy.

-Kathy

 

[shadow rabbit10]

Yes, it could be either, maybe even both. If it isn't, it could be other things, but be-worming and treating for coccidiosis are two very safe things to try, so that's why I suggested it. Sorry I wasn't clear about it, I seem to do that a lot lately, lol.

I wouldn't want to waste money on fecal tests since false negatives are common.

FYI, if your chickens touch the ground, they'll eventually get worms, so I see no reason to return the chicks if they're healthy.

-Kathy

Its fine! Im pretty convinced its one of the two. the syproms all match... The thing is, the chicks haven't come in contact with my flock yet... One is in a cage right now and I let her outside in a place my flock have never been. Should I just introduce them once the problems clear up? If she gets sick, I could always treat her...