Help with a flock of one

[adstowe]

How much room do you actually have? (coop and run separately). Space plays a big part in integration. How many birds do you actually want to have? You said you have 2 coops. How big is the other one? Chickens don't care about cute or fancy. If the extra coop is larger it may be a better option. Not interrogating you. Just trying to help, but need more info

 

[3KillerBs]

I have found a farm with Cochins and Marans.

My Cochin lives up to the breed's reputation for submissiveness. She's giving way to some of the 15-week chicks right now.

My Marans are the French Cuckoo sort. They're sizeable, solid birds who have landed right in the middle of the pecking order.

 

[aart]

How much room do you actually have? (coop and run separately). Space plays a big part in integration. How many birds do you actually want to have? You said you have 2 coops. How big is the other one? Chickens don't care about cute or fancy. If the extra coop is larger it may be a better option. Not interrogating you. Just trying to help, but need more info

This^^^
Space is key for sure.
Dimensions and pics would help here.
It's not likely you can just pop in a couple-few new birds without some strife.


Consider biological/medical quarantine:
BYC Medical Quarantine Article


Here's some tips about....
Integration Basics:
It's all about territory and resources(space/food/water).
Existing birds will almost always attack new ones to defend their resources.
Understanding chicken behaviors is essential to integrating new birds into your flock.

Confine new birds within sight but physically segregated from older/existing birds for several weeks, so they can see and get used to each other but not physically interact.

In adjacent runs, spread scratch grains along the dividing mesh, best if mesh is just big enough for birds to stick their head thru, so they get used to eating together.

The more space, the better. Birds will peck to establish dominance, the pecked bird needs space to get away. As long as there's no copious blood drawn and/or new bird is not trapped/pinned down and beaten unmercilessly, let them work it out. Every time you interfere or remove new birds, they'll have to start the pecking order thing all over again.

Multiple feed/water stations. Dominance issues are most often carried out over sustenance, more stations lessens the frequency of that issue.

Places for the new birds to hide 'out of line of sight'(but not a dead end trap) and/or up and away from any bully birds. Roosts, pallets or boards leaned up against walls or up on concrete blocks, old chairs tables, branches, logs, stumps out in the run can really help. Lots of diversion and places to 'hide' instead of bare wide open run.
Good ideas for hiding places:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/a-cluttered-run.1323792/

 

[InterestingChickens]

Thank you SO much for the advice. Since it is winter in Michigan and Marble has not been broody in the past, I think I will buy adult hens. I have found a farm with Cochins and Marans. Both are supposed to be good natured. I think two is a good idea. I will separate the new hens in my second coop and do supervised visitation in a common run for a few days and see how they do.
I am new to chickens. When I go pick them up, other than looking for lively, healthy birds with bright combs and a clean environment, what do I need to look for? I will read up on mites and lice.

Ask if you can have a look at the conditions they were and are kept in. Hygiene and space goes along way for healthy chickens who will thrive in a new environment. Expect them to be unsure of their surroundings and not lay eggs for a while until settled in. Try your best to create a stress-free environment.

As far as what to look out for goes, have a good look for bleaching. Older hens will have rougher, less vibrant looking feet and beaks. Old hens that aren't laying or hardly laying will have pale combs and wattles. This is also the case for sick birds. Sick birds will keep to themselves and avoid other chickens normally hundched up, feathers fluffed and in a corner. If you go near them, they will not be as weary about you as of other birds. Of course there could be an exception as they may be bold and/or friendly. Though these birds will regard you with interest. You stated that you want to by hens - hens can be anywhere from 1+ years old. Potentially so old they aren't laying eggs. Unfortunately, some sellers will try to sell you older birds - especially if they know your newer to owning chickens. Hens of an older age will lay less, often being more prone to heath issues.

Make sure you really are buying females and not males. Be on the lookout for male feathering (sickle, saddle and hackle feathers). Hackle feathers being the feathers on the back of the neck, males will be pointy, females will be rounded. Sickle feathers are the curved, tail feathers. Males will be pointy, females rounded. This is the same concept with the protruding feathers around the tail, the saddle feathers.

It is easier to tell the age of a chicken when young. Pullets usually sold as POL (point of lay) will often be a few weeks off laying age (most likely 16 - 18 weeks old). It's easier as they haven't used any of their yellow pigment to colour the yolks which is stored in their legs, beak and skin. Overtime it is restored, but the legs will still be rougher looking. Their body will look slightly slimmer than that of a hen, with smaller comb and wattles, not as vibrant red looking. If sold as pullets without being advertised as POL you can normally assume they are under 1 year old.

Just a few things to be aware of when buying 'hens'. Good luck.