Yeah I bought a lot of clothes when I started working. All jobs had a uniform so after a decade I realized I didn't need all those cute clothes when I'm working a ton of ot. Cute clothes don't work out well for chore clothes, but stained, tore uniforms did.
I have bought a few jeans and shorts that fit since I lost 20 lbs when retired a decade ago. But I'm pretty much back to wearing 3 pairs of shorts and 3 pants nowadays. I seem to go through boots and shoes yearly though.
 
Men used more buttons but parts of their clothing had tape ties as well. Particularly, the waistbands of the breeches were made in two parts and laced together in the back -- allowing for changes in size.

Women have a tendency to change size a lot -- pregnancy, etc. -- and buttons are unforgiving. Unlike today, clothing was hard to make and expected to last for years (sometimes remade into more current styles), so it needed to adjust to changing figures and even to being handed down from person to person.
They don't make things to last these days.
 
Yeah I bought a lot of clothes when I started working. All jobs had a uniform so after a decade I realized I didn't need all those cute clothes when I'm working a ton of ot. Cute clothes don't work out well for chore clothes, but stained, tore uniforms did.
I have bought a few jeans and shorts that fit since I lost 20 lbs when retired a decade ago. But I'm pretty much back to wearing 3 pairs of shorts and 3 pants nowadays. I seem to go through boots and shoes yearly though.
My go to town shoes are turned into wear on the farm shoes once the farm shoes wear out, which happens regularly.
 
I haven't read all the posts yet but wanted to add my two cents on screws/nails.

I use structural screws for framing. They have a hex head and come with the bit in the box. They hold forever. I've been removing and reusing ones from a structure I built ten years ago. No rust on them. (I'm in a dry climate..maybe they rust in wet areas?) Ten years of use and they're still strong and easy to drive.

For non-structural work I use drywall screws with a course thread. They don't strip easy and go in well.

For metal roof over metal (like a metal roof installed over a dog kennel, carport or something like that) I use self drilling metal screws. Was told they shouldn't be used for metal over wood so I've never tried that, but for metal on metal they make the job easy and hold forever.

My kid just got me my first impact driver and explained how they work and when to use it...lol. I'm excited to try it...but the above screws work great with a regular drill and have become my go to screws for how long they last, how easy they are to drive and to remove if needed.
 
Oh oh, I used self tapping screws when I put ribbed roofing onto my
plywood sheathed house. Nobody
told me not to. I hope they hold. Time
will tell. let me see, I installed that roof over 20 years ago.
I use torque screws almost exclusively. I did take a lean to apart and the screws were not rusted.
to those following my saga of nonworking engines.
Today for a change of pace, I double checked the rototiller motor to see if I needed to replace the cam shaft. I had Annie help me watch for the tell tale tik of the exhaust valve. we could not actually see it, but we both could hear it. so I decided that I won't have to tear that engine apart.
I reset the valves to .004" and pulled
the starter rope. it started !!!!
I hope that it will run good once I set the carburetor.\
 
Oh oh, I used self tapping screws when I put ribbed roofing onto my
plywood sheathed house. Nobody
told me not to. I hope they hold. Time
will tell. let me see, I installed that roof over 20 years ago.
I use torque screws almost exclusively. I did take a lean to apart and the screws were not rusted.
That's good to know. I'm about to roof a new structure with wood and metal and eyeing the metal screws wondering if I could use them. I've been afraid to try it for worry that my roof will end up in a neighbors yard.
I've never heard of torque screws so just googled them. They sound good.
 

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