Hen destroying and eating eggs

VlkStinu

Songster
Aug 6, 2020
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Czech Republic
Hi everyone! I've read up about hens pecking on eggs and eating them, but I wanted to ask if you potentially have any personal tips and experiences with this problem.

I have a hen that probably a few weeks back, maybe more, learned to peck on eggs and eat them. I haven't discovered this until recently. I was always finding crushed eggs in the nests and I thought it's a soft-shelled egg (or a normal egg that has been laid later during the day and stayed in the coop overnight - my hens are sleeping in the nests, so it made sense to me they would likely crush the egg) that just has been crushed under the weight of the hen. But after going directly into the coop after seeing laying hens emerging from it, I found healthy and strong eggs, which made me realize that problem is elsewhere. I started checking the nests more often and during coop cleaning, I picked out a clear pattern - when a hen comes laying inside, the hen (the egg eater :D) comes in to check every now and then, waiting for the laying process to be done so she can go right for the egg. It is just this one hen and she apparently got very good at it - I was waiting for a hen to finish laying, went inside my house for a minute, not more, came back, saw the laying hen outside, went to the nests and there she was, already well into the egg which was pecked open.

I was thinking before that I just have to be quicker than her, but this seems like an impossible task now considering she is really waiting for the hen to finish laying. I would have to wait there too and that's just within my time capabilities. :D

Now I don't really mind them eating the eggs, I get the crushed egg, put it outside for other hens to eat and they get important nutritions in this challenging winter season (it's their first winter outside, they are rescued ex-battery hens). But if this would continue later on during spring and summer and she would systematically peck on all eggs, I would start to object. :D

So is this something that she will drop later on, maybe once she finishes her moult, spring starts and she will start laying herself? Or is it a habit that will persist? They have plenty of space, they are fed with all nutrients, etc. - reasons given in the article about this problem don't really seem to be the issue in this case. I think she just found out she can do it (maybe through pecking on soft-shelled eggs that two of my hens lay due to salpingitis), so why wouldn't she? As I mentioned, I don't mind it now, I wouldn't really expect them to lay anyway these winter days, but it would be a shame to lose all the eggs later on in the spring and summer due to her egg addiction. :D
 
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Manufactured coops are always smaller than they say space side. If it says 8, it probably means like 3 or 4.

Are they getting enough calcium too? I have birds that are really delicate when it comes to calcium and protein and as soon as they aren't getting enough for whatever reason, they go for the eggs. I give them the extra they're needing and they stop. I've only ever had one bird I axed from egg eating, but that was more the straw on the camel's back than her only problem honestly
 
I was thinking about modifications to the nest boxes, but the problem is I have very little space for any modifications because the nests are outside of the coop, as you can see on this picture. I don't really know how I could change this layout without risking safety of the hens (so a weasel or marten couldn't get in).

View attachment 2479284

a simple yet, rough suggestion.... to give your hens some elbow room.
here is my basic idea....
red-coop2.jpg


I'm currently modifying our coops inside area for our silkies.... and will be updating with some good framing images that you can use as a brainstorming aid to come up with your solution. your basically making a box with an inside skeleton and sitting it on a set of saw horses that you have trimmed the legs to have the box equal to the original coops floor.

heres what I used to find saw horse details

https://duckduckgo.com/?q=saw+horse&t=ffsb&atb=v219-1&iar=images&iax=images&ia=images

a sheet of plywood can be $12-35 (depending on the thickness you want. I would stay 1/4" or thicker. probably 3-4 of the 2"x2"x8' or 2"x3"x8' and a single 2"x4"x8' = I'd expect $10-15 for all for these boards

a box of carpendry screws ~1 5/8" long be extra careful so they don't poke thru the wood into the air space that could scratch or poke a hen to bleed.

then the cost of wood to make the saw horses... FYI there is a page that shows how to make pare of horses out of a used pallet! very solid and simple design too!


so, listen to the wisdom of the others who have walked this path before us and go forth and have fun!
 
Why do you think I need a bigger coop? It is designed for a maximum of 8 hens and I have 6. It seems to suit them well and it is much easier to heat during the colder nights.

Isolating seems like a harsh and temporary solution. Because what would I achieve by isolation? I could isolate her throughout the day, but she would spend the night in the same coop anyway. And hearing the experience of Aapomp831, she could as well just resume this habit once she is allowed back to the flock.

Is there no way she will stop on her own? When she starts laying by spring?
You cram six chickens in this at night?
 
Please be aware this is an illustrational photo and you don't see any measurements, so size estimate is very subjective.
Well, we have much experience looking at prefab coops, and know from that long experience that the population claims of coop manufacturers are often greatly exaggerated.
But, yes, if you could provide dimensions, that would be great.

There are two roost bars that can accommodate 6 roosting hens without a problem.
Roost bars are at least 2"(5cm) wide, and 12"(30cm) from the walls, and 18"(46cm) between roosts?

fit in those two nest boxes
Sleeping in the nests is a sure sign that the roosts/spacings are inadequate.
 
You probably need a bigger coop anyway,
so you could use this tiny coop to isolate the egg eater.

Really you need to isolate the eater....she's not likely to stop.

Why do you think I need a bigger coop? It is designed for a maximum of 8 hens and I have 6. It seems to suit them well and it is much easier to heat during the colder nights.

Isolating seems like a harsh and temporary solution. Because what would I achieve by isolation? I could isolate her throughout the day, but she would spend the night in the same coop anyway. And hearing the experience of Aapomp831, she could as well just resume this habit once she is allowed back to the flock.

Is there no way she will stop on her own? When she starts laying by spring?
 
They should have a complex diet - I mix all the vitamins minerals and nutrients into their feed and I am always putting extra protein and extra calcium too. But I can't rule out completely whether this particular hen doesn't have a deficiency of protein or calcium. She is still moulting at the moment, but so does other 2 hens and they haven't developed this habit.
What exactly are you feeding them?
 
Why do you think I need a bigger coop? It is designed for a maximum of 8 hens and I have 6.
That's supposed to fit 8 hens? :th Looks like it would fit two... at max. Maybe four if they were bantams.

I think if you can figure out how to do a roll away nest box that could work well, but does look difficult with your current coop, however, not impossible. I think @electrycmonk has some good ideas. Best of luck.
 

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