Heritage Large Fowl - Phase II

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That is most of your answer there. An easily absorbed calcium source is Food Grade Diatomaceous Earth(Not to kill parasites)

I bet the eggs will get harder soon.
Should I just throw a little on top of the feed? I put some on the floor after I cleaned it out today. Figured it wouldn't hurt to try. Like I mentioned earlier I bought ivermectin pour on to use on them. I figured that's easier than dusting since with all those feathers it's hard to get every part of the bird covered.
 
Should I just throw a little on top of the feed? I put some on the floor after I cleaned it out today. Figured it wouldn't hurt to try. Like I mentioned earlier I bought ivermectin pour on to use on them. I figured that's easier than dusting since with all those feathers it's hard to get every part of the bird covered.

Mites are tough. They live in the wood of the coop and come out to feed at night. You do not always see them because of that.

They need to be treated again at 10 days to break the life cycle
The coop needs to be treated and should be retreated in two weeks and then again monthly

Yes, a half cup in the feeder full until the eggs get hard again. Keep free choice calcium out for them

You are almost there!
 
When I had mites I cleaned all the litter out, sprayed all wood with neem oil (beware its strong smelling and read the label to make sure safe for animals) and dusted my birds in wood ash several days in a row and then 10 days later. The mites were gone. I also now leave a litter box full of wood ash in the coop for them tons.dust bathe in. Never had a problem since
 
What's the deal with the charcoal? Is it a tonic for the G.I. tract? Or?
Thanks,
Karen
I only know of one use for charcoal and that's not to say there aren't more. I know it as a toxin remover. They eat it, it absorbs toxins, and they get flushed out. Just don't forget you gave it to them the first time as they may eat quite a bit and then have droppings that are black. It's shocking until you remember. Kind of like grating fresh beets into their food on occasion and the following droppings are blood red. I can't recall how many times I've scared myself to death doing that.
 
spray the coop with liquid seven too. The coop needs to be treated. This should be a safe time of year--Bees are in decline because of not being careful with Permethren like poisons.
Sulfur powder works great as a dust and also as a spray. Non-toxic to bees (we raise honeybees) and people. Solved my chicken mite/lice problem. It is relatively inexpensive as well and not as dusty when applying as permethrin and carbaryl (Sevin).
 
What's the deal with the charcoal? Is it a tonic for the G.I. tract? Or?
Thanks,
Karen
The idea was to have partially burned charcoal available. The combination of ash and charcoal was both a mineral supplement and a digestive aid. Charcoal alone does have ash but in such small quantities I doubt it would be a good mineral supplement, but the ash is high in phosphorus. All the calcium in the world is useless without phosphorus. Made available the birds will get their own balance.
Charcoal also decreases the amount of ammonia in the manure making for better litter.
 
Mites are tough. They live in the wood of the coop and come out to feed at night. You do not always see them because of that.

They need to be treated again at 10 days to break the life cycle
The coop needs to be treated and should be retreated in two weeks and then again monthly

Yes, a half cup in the feeder full until the eggs get hard again. Keep free choice calcium out for them

You are almost there!
Depends on the mite. red mites feed on the birds at night. Fowl mites live and breed on the bird. It is helpful to know what you are dealing with. I am a believer in stripping and cleaning and treating the coop regardless. It is not like the fowl mites spontaneously generate on the fowl. Any left behind is the start of a new problem.

If there is temporary quarters for the birds, this easy to accomplish.
 
Mites are tough. They live in the wood of the coop and come out to feed at night. You do not always see them because of that.

They need to be treated again at 10 days to break the life cycle
The coop needs to be treated and should be retreated in two weeks and then again monthly

Yes, a half cup in the feeder full until the eggs get hard again. Keep free choice calcium out for them

You are almost there!
Many have reservations but I have used DE for years and have no problems with parasites.
 
Many have reservations but I have used DE for years and have no problems with parasites.

Not a very scientific answer. If you kept one flock with DE & one w/o & the flock with no DE had parasite problems & the one with DE didn't then your statement would have more merit. As it is it's like saying I always wear red shirts & I don't have flat feet.

On the other side of that coin I have kept poultry for over 50 years, have nevr used so much as a spoonful of DE & don't have a problem with parasites either.
 
Not a very scientific answer. If you kept one flock with DE & one w/o & the flock with no DE had parasite problems & the one with DE didn't then your statement would have more merit. As it is it's like saying I always wear red shirts & I don't have flat feet.

On the other side of that coin I have kept poultry for over 50 years, have nevr used so much as a spoonful of DE & don't have a problem with parasites either.

That's fine! What works for you is good and what works for me is better...lol

I never put out oyster shells or any other mineral source and never (knock wood) had soft shelled eggs. What works for one can be lethal to another.

Thanks for your reply!
 

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