Heritage Large Fowl - Phase II

[3riverschick]

What kind of comb is this? I believe the male is a mixed breed.

https://www.backyardchickens.com/t/877927/lightbox/post/13340628/id/6299815
Thanks,
Karen

 

[qball53]

Quote:
Bee, I am glad the post made it here, it was an interesting read. I remember the post you refer to about the lady that picked up her rooster and carried him around to control his behavior. Maybe you should be known as the Rooster Wisperer. Jesting of course but this observation is very much like the Dog Wisperer. It is simply bieng intune with the animals we chose to live with. I have Anatolian Sheperds and it is important to be viewed as the dominant. I never walk around my dogs, they either move out of the way or I may step directly over them. That simple behavior and not letting them through a doorway before me goes a long way in preserving my place in our pack. When I move within our flocks I most often move in a direct line in a deliberate manner and the birds calmly move out of the way. I had not given that thought as a dominate manuver as with the dogs but it makes sense. Thinking about it I realize that at times I do give way to the chickens/roosters. I typically allow the roosters prescense at the feeder or the scratch. In fact I enjoy watching him call his hens to the treats and the attention he follows up with. It has been very rare for a rooster to try and get one on me and so far they have all been roosters I was willing to eat. I will keep this in mind for the time my biggest, fastest growing, prettiest, most balanced rooster decides I am fair game. Ironically the only roosters I have observed to be relentless in their attacks were Belgian Quail De'Anvers (SP). They are so incredibley small it is quite comical behavior to me but it can be annoying. Always enjoy reading what you have to say Bee, thanks.

 

[Lacy Blues]

What kind of comb is this? I believe the male is a mixed breed.

https://www.backyardchickens.com/t/877927/lightbox/post/13340628/id/6299815
Thanks,
Karen

I believe it is probably some kind of rose comb mix, due to the spikes all over the surface.

Here is an example.

 

[3riverschick]

Thank you Lacey!

 

[3riverschick]

Hi,
We talk about which breed is right for our soil and microclimates. I am reading
again Oscar Smart's brilliant book and he addresses the subject so thought to share.

A book by the British poultryman Oscar Smart. He died young and was never a well man, but he was a brilliant poultryman. The leading poultry biologist of his time in England. He was respected there the same way we respected Morley Jull here in the States. Mr. Smart was very keen on the inheritance of the laying ability in fowl. He developed a cataloging system called the "winter test" whereby one could analyze the laying performance of one's hens with a view to future mating for better egg laying results. It can be read in his 61 page book , "The Inheritance Of Fecundity in Fowl" , which is available online at:
http://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=coo.31924003164450;view=1up;seq=3 Read the Index first. It is very explanatory.
definition: http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/Fecundity
Page 44 : The Inheritance of Fecundity in Fowls
when we are considering the soil and climate in respect to the birds we intend for stock, the breed is of far greater importance than is the strain, but when once we have found the best breed for the environment, then it immediately becomes a question of strain. Fowls are divided into breeds, varieties, and strains.
BREEDS are differentiated by structural characters.
VARIETIES are differentiated by colour and in domestic varieties of fowls, I fear, very often by lineage.
STRAINS are differentiated by lineage.
The breed and variety should be selected to suit the conditions under which the birds are to be kept, and it is impossible to exercise too much care in this matter. The following list may be taken as a safe guide :-
Conditions—HEAVY SOIL, DAMP DISTRICT, AND EXPOSED SITUATIONS. Best Breeds to Keep—Rhode Island Reds, Black Leghorns, Plymouth Rocks, Croad Langshans, Buff Orpingtons, White Orpingtons, Faverolles, Partridge Wyandottes, and Black Wyandottes.
Conditions—LIGHT SOIL, AND MILD, DRY DISTRICTS. Best Breeds to Keep—White Leghorns, White Wyandottes, Light Sussex, Silver Campines, Buff Rocks, Anconas, White La Bresse, Black La Bresse, Redcaps, Blue Leghorns, and Blue Andalusians.
Conditions—INTENSIVE HOUSES AND SMALL BACK- YARD RUNS. Best Breeds to Keep—White Leghorns, Black Leghorns, Silver Campines, Anconas, Blue Leghorns, and Blue Andalusians.
In this list we have confined ourselves only to such breeds as are capable of producing highly fecund stock. Now, the importance of breed, so far as egg production is concerned, can best be studied when viewed in relation to its environment. There are some breeds which lay much better in one environment than they do in another. There is a reason for this which may best be explained by two illustrations :—
----------------
My Light Sussex are currently on dirt in a shaded part of the yard. Looks like I should sand the run so it fits them better.

Best Regards,
Karen

 

[Beekissed]

Good info! I haven't read the links but will do so, but was wondering what the soil type had to do with it? Good to see that I have chosen the right breeds for our soil type but would like to know the why of it.....will read along.

Also good to know that some folks found the rooster psychology post useful. The thing is, about letting roosters be roosters as roosters are supposed to be, is that it's much like letting dogs be dogs like they want to be...jumping up on folks, licking them in the face, growling, biting, or barking at them in the presence of the owners, etc. All these behaviors are natural dog behaviors that I find to be unacceptable when in interaction with humans. So behavior modification becomes necessary...it's not painful, it's not hard work, it's just like any other management of the animal~it's necessary.

Same with roosters....jumping the legs, flogging the human, biting the human, charging the human...all behaviors I find unacceptable, but are still natural cock behaviors. To me, to live in harmony with humans, those behaviors need some level of management. Nine out of ten birds will never need it. They are smart and cue into the dominant animal on the farmstead and never challenge them....then there is the tenth bird.

He may not be habitual in his actions, just a young cockerel that hasn't got a clue yet, but giving him a clue could mean the difference between keeping a good bird that just needed a lesson in manners~ or eating a bird that had potential for breeding but no one took the time to modify his natural behavior enough to see if he's truly an aggressive rooster, or if he's just a tad clueless.

I've never had to eat a rooster for being aggressive yet. Only had to school a few of them and one lesson did the trick. Eating a rooster that flogs you is like committing suicide...it's a permanent solution to a temporary problem.

 

[qball53]

I've never had to eat a rooster for being aggressive yet. Only had to school a few of them and one lesson did the trick. Eating a rooster that flogs you is like committing suicide...it's a permanent solution to a temporary problem.

The above statement may be largely true but culling IS sometimes the answer. We all creatures have a genetic as well as evnvironmental component to our development.

 

[Beekissed]

I've never had to eat a rooster for being aggressive yet. Only had to school a few of them and one lesson did the trick. Eating a rooster that flogs you is like committing suicide...it's a permanent solution to a temporary problem.

Quote:



Yep. I'm a big advocate for the cull..it's the basis of my livestock management and temperament is one of those things for which I cull. But a rooster is a rooster and when he is young he may try a thing or two that he wouldn't when he is more mature. I don't kill them for that, not without giving them a chance to learn the rules of the coop.

 

[mithious]

http://www.wyandottesandrocks.com/ TX
--------------------------
Plymouth Rock Fanciers Club
David Atkins
Lucasville, OH 45648
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Plymouth Rock Fanciers Club of America's WEBSITE
http://prfca.poultrysites.com/
Oh! Their 2012 yearbook is out! Free online download! Always a good place to look for breeders !
Now this is helpful: The have Members Annual Point Totals by variety for many years.
Open the PDF and see who has been winning with Partridge Rocks. Then get their
contact info from the Club.

Awesome information 3riverschick! I down loaded it last night and stayed up wayyyy too late reading. Now to get back to working those few days a month part time summer job, so I can become a member of the club and get some of those books you recommended. Thank you tons!!!!

 

[mithious]

I've never had to eat a rooster for being aggressive yet. Only had to school a few of them and one lesson did the trick. Eating a rooster that flogs you is like committing suicide...it's a permanent solution to a temporary problem.

The above statement may be largely true but culling IS sometimes the answer. We all creatures have a genetic as well as evnvironmental component to our development.




I agree with both statements. I am working on my only adult rooster right now. Maybe a tad different than Beekissed, but still some of the things she mentioned also, like walking through the flock, not around them and directly towards him and making HIM move away. I do think it's because he just turned a year, it's the middle of mating season, no other roo to show him the ropes, may be a tad stupid? as he seems to get better, than forgets...ORRR it could be that he is persistent, and is simply determined to become the dominant no matter what??? IDK. This is only my second Roo that flogged me in my whole life, so don't have much experience with the behavior. Luckily, he is only a hatchery roo, so not going to be around past this summer anyway. I am hoping roo training get's the problem under control before his spurs fully grow in though

I still have the scars from around 8 years old, from the other one. Dad culled him!