Houdans

[toybarons]

Contacted Cackle hatchery. With all this talk about how their birds help start the U of A's program I thought I would see if they do the paperwork so I can bring some in Canada. Though they were very nice in answering my emails, seems Cackle doesn't. DARN! It is so frustrating finding stock in Canada.

 

[Chambertin]

Got a reply from the man in charge and learned a lot about the U of A program.
Pretty detailed and he is really trying to get the size back up where it should be.

As I expected shipping eggs, birds, or pretty much anything that doesnt go to Wal Mart is nearly impossible.
Even though, there's so much work to be done to refine the breed genetics out here that anyone would really have to start from scratch.

So, I wont be sending any eggs home to anyone (even myself) for a long time.
Its too bad, but even if someone wanted to try and work with this little time capsule breed they couldnt.
I know I'd love to play with it, finding the space for a farm is difficult here, and sending them back home with me isnt an option either.
Maybe I'll be going back home with some "hard boiled" eggs next time.

 

[HaikuHeritageFarm]

Believe it or not guys...UofAr is not the only promising source. There are a few people who are breeding competitive show standard Houdans that just aren't on byc or as dialed in on selling. They may not even be aware that there are people chomping at the bits and willing to pay good money to establish a flock with their lines. Let me go through my correspondence and research and I will post and we can compare notes.

 

[Puddin Fluff]

The following is FYI for those of you interested in the U of Arkansas program. I also know that in Arkansas P.Allen Smith has a farm near Little Rock and he is a part of the Heritage Breed Conversancy (something like that) and they also have Houdans. I have never visited his facilities but would love to.

We have a male and female from the U of A eggs and I think they are wonderful birds. I need to weigh them as I have no idea how close they are to SOP in weight but I think they look pretty good. The pics are from the end of summer. They are bigger now, esp. the male. I need new pics but they are dirty from winter weather and I have not been motivated to stand in the cold an take any.







2012 Fertile Eggs from the University of Arkansas

The intended scope and purpose of this project is to provide fertile hatching eggs to 4-H and FFA youth and leaders with the hope of increasing interest in poultry and to encourage learning and developing general animal care practices. We also will provide these eggs for use in school or classroom embryology projects with the idea that the hatched chicks can be taken home and raised for personal use to promote interest in poultry. When possible, these fertile eggs will also be made available to others interested in these breeds purely for exhibition purposes. Any intent to directly sell the eggs or chicks for personal gain will not be permitted or tolerated and could possibly jeopardize the continuation of this program. These breeds are all selected to meet the APA standards for each breed to allow access to breeds of chickens that will be competitive at poultry shows.

If interested in obtaining any of these eggs please contact:

Keith Bramwell, PhD
Extension Poultry Specialist
Department of Poultry Science
The University of Arkansas, Fayetteville
(479) 841-6498
[email protected]

or

Scharidi Barber
Extension Poultry Science
Cooperative Extension Service, Little Rock
(501) 671-2189
[email protected]

Standard size chicken breeds raised for fertile eggs are (breed identification as listed on egg in parenthesis):



Black-Breasted Red Araucana, All Other Standard Breed Class, (A) – My birds are the true Araucana as they originated from South America with tufts and the rumpless gene characteristics. Some really great birds have been hatched out of this stock but due to the variable nature of the genetic traits these birds possess it is always a ‘crap shoot’ with this breed. They are considered fair egg producers and lay a medium sized blue to green shelled egg, with the sky blue color preferred for this breed, and they may go broody. Mature body weight in these standard sized birds will be between 4 and 5 pounds. The ‘tuft’ gene has some embryonic lethal genes associated with it so hatchability is often poor; in addition, the rumpless characteristic often depresses fertility. For these reasons, the vast majority of people interested in producing blue/green eggs in their backyard flock prefer the ‘Ameraucana’ which is different than the real Araucanas. They can do well in the open spaces outdoors but are generally not the best at foraging for their own food source.







Silver Spangled Hamburg, Continental Class, (G) – My flock originated from some top show quality genetic stock so they have the potential to do very well in the show barn. These birds are a very old breed of Dutch origin with a large and very distinctive Rose Comb. The plumage of this breed is very attractive and striking with each white feather having a black ‘spangle, or spot’ on the tip while maintaining a clean white appearance over the rest of the feather. They are generally a non-sitting fowl and considered good layers of a small to medium sized white egg. As mature adults they will be between 4 and 5 pounds in body weight. They are very active and ‘skittish’ which tends to make them an excellent ‘yard bird’ as they can be flighty thus avoiding predation. Hamburg’s are very economical eaters and will readily forage for their own food source which adds to their appeal as an excellent choice for a backyard egg laying flock.
Mottled Houdan, Continental Class, (H) – My breeding stock is very good quality as I have been selectively breeding them for several generations and they are continually getting better as they have done well as exhibition birds at poultry shows. Some of the Houdan populations in the US have lost the traditional body type associated with this breed as they become too “polish like” in appearance, so this has been the focus with this breed to return them to the standard. While these birds are a ‘crested-fowl’, they are not directly related to the more well known Polish breeds of chickens. The birds have a V-comb (originally a leaf comb) and not only have a mottled feather pattern, but they have mottled colored shanks and five toes. They are generally a non-sitting breed and considered fair layers of an average sized white egg. They were originally selected as a dual purpose breed so they should reach 6-8 pounds in weight as mature adults. They are a fairly docile breed that do well in confinement and generally do not make for a good ‘yard bird’ as the crest prevents them from seeing their surroundings fully and therefore could become an easy and tasty meal for any predators in the area.

Naked Neck, All Other Standard Breed Class, (N) – My birds are a strange version of the Naked Necks shown here, as mine are black skinned variety which is not normal for this breed which makes their use as ‘show birds’ not ideal but still very interesting. However, there are still occasional white skin chicks that hatch from these birds. This breed is often sold or referred to as ‘Turkens’ which is incorrect as that name is a trade name created by commercial hatcheries to market the birds. Also, these are the birds that carry the scaleless genes that will often produce fully naked birds, so get the little chicken sweaters ready for any little naked chicks that may hatch. Chickens with the naked neck trait have less feather covering everywhere on their body so they tend to do better than most large breeds in warm to hot climates. They lay a medium to large brown egg and are quite a heavy and well fleshed bird (7-10 pounds as adults) so they are a good choice to be used as a dual purpose breed. Although they are a heavier breed, they will do alright as ‘yard birds’ but will also do well in confined pens.






Lakenvelder, Continental Class, (L) – An old breed of German origin that has a counterpart in the Lakenvelder breed of cow that carries similar color markings. Although the contrast in colors is very striking in appearance, they are not very common in the US but are more common in other parts of the world. Additionally, birds with the best characteristics, according to the APA standard, are located outside the US so there is work to be done to ‘polish up’ this breed in this country. Selection to improve the breed characteristics has begun in my flock but we are still early in this process. The Lakenvelder has a single comb and are similar in size to the commercial Leghorn (4-5 pounds as adults) but usually not quite as flighty. They are considered an early maturing bird that was originally bred for egg production as they are non-sitters that lay an average sized white egg. Due to their activity level and preference to avoid human contact, they could make a good ‘yard-bird’ although they are not often raised for this purpose. They do well in warm climates and will readily seek out their own food source which adds to their appeal as a choice for an egg producing backyard flock.

Salmon Faverolles, Continental Class, (F) – This is a very gentle and large French breed of chicken resulting from the crosses of Houdans, Dorkings and some other Asiatic breeds. They were originally bred for utility uses of both egg and meat production, and due to their large size (6-8+ pounds as adults) and their feathering they were particularly chosen for these purposes in areas with colder winter months. My current breeding stock is new to my operation, but some very good genetic stock is being utilized to produce future generations of this breed. As adults the male and female have very distinctly different color patterns and appearance which adds to their attraction and uniqueness. They have a single comb, feathering forming a heavy facial beard and muffs, feathered shanks, and 5 toes. They are often considered good setters that lay a medium sized light brown egg, and although at one time they were selected for egg production most common strains are not known as great egg layers. Due to their large size and feathering they do not make the best free ranging ‘yard-bird’, especially in warmer climates, and generally will not readily and actively seek out their own food source.

Black Sumatra, All Other Standard Breed Class, (S) – My birds are very good show quality birds, with genetics from excellent show stock having been incorporated into my original stock of which I had been actively breeding for several generations. These additions are reflected in the recent progeny from my stock as they have done very well at poultry shows. Although these birds are often considered one of the ‘long-tailed fowl’, Sumatra’s generally do not have the tail length often seen in the other long-tail fowl breeds but should have a more full and longer tail than most other breeds. They are often very flighty and active birds that can sometimes become aggressive so they tend to do better in open pens or spaces and they seem to thrive in the sunshine. Their feathering is deep black with a striking ‘beetle greenish’ sheen when viewed in the sun; they have very black skin and face and the males will grow multiple spurs on each leg. As mature adults they will reach body weights of about 4-5+ pounds each. They lay a small to medium sized white to tinted egg and the hens may go broody. They make an excellent ‘yard bird’, especially in warmer climates, as they are very active and tend to be excellent foragers that are very adept at evading predators.

Silver Phoenix, All Other Standard Breed Class, (X) – (The X1 are non-molting) - One of the best known of the ‘long-tailed fowl’ in the US, these birds have been known to grow tails in excess of 20 feet in their native Oriental homeland, but this takes many years to accomplish. Very few, if any, of the Phoenix in the US will grow tails that will ever remotely approach those lengths. However, these birds will grow tails several feet in length when housed and managed properly, but raising these birds does become a challenge when trying to maximize tail growth and preserve quality. Generally they are raised exclusively for ornamental purposes and not for egg production although some strains have been known to be very good egg producers and will lay an egg white to tinted in color. As mature adults they will range in weight from 4-5 pounds each. Not considered to be a great choice as a ‘yard bird’ as they seem to do better in somewhat confined spaces while still allowing room to move about freely.








Red Shoulder Yokohama, All Other Standard Breed Class, (Y) – A very old breed of Oriental decent and believed to have common ancestors as the Phoenix. It has a walnut comb and a very pheasant like body shape and appearance with a long and full tail and saddle feathers so they are therefore considered one of the ‘long-tail fowl’ breeds. The Red Shoulder color pattern is difficult to breed for and achieve so quality birds of this breed and variety are difficult to obtain. My stock still has some work to do to get them competitive at large poultry shows but progress is in the works. This breed has white skin and lays a light brown to tinted egg but is not considered a great egg layer so it is therefore primarily raised for ornamental purposes. As mature adults they will range in body weight between 4-5 pounds each. They are very active and game like in appearance and disposition so they can make good ‘yard-birds’ as they are very good foragers and good for bug control and would be very adept at evading predators. However, they are primarily raised for show and exhibition purposes.

Note: The "C" is the Light/Coronation Split Sussex.

Bantam Breeds I raise for fertile eggs are:

Sicilian Buttercup, All Other Comb Clean Leg Class, (B) – My birds are of excellent show quality for this breed and should do very well in the show ring. They are a very old breed which originated in Sicily and get their name from the very unique ‘cup-shaped’ comb. They are generally considered a non-sitting fowl and very good producers of a tinted to white colored egg. As bantams, while they are small in size, they are not considered one of the smaller of the bantam breeds and will reach about 1.5 to almost 2 pounds in weight as mature adults. They can be a somewhat flighty and easily excited breed that tends to do better in open spaces or large pens. Buttercups can be considered excellent ‘yard-birds’ as they are active and elusive and would be good foragers for their own food sources.

White Silkie, Feather Legged Class, (W) – My birds are very good show quality and have done very well in many shows where I have seen them exhibited. This is an old Oriental breed and is one of the ‘true bantams’ meaning there is no large counterpart to this breed. As mature adults they will be between 2 and 2.5 pounds each so they are one of the larger of the bantam breeds. They have black skin, crest, beard and muffs, feathered legs, 5 toes and the feathering is known as ‘Silkie’ as the feathers lack the barbs and barbules that hold feathers together for the normal shape and texture. This feather structure gives them the appearance of having an external coat of ‘hair’ rather than the traditional looking feather coat. They are excellent setters and seem to want to ‘go broody’ and hatch eggs often. For this reason they are often used as ‘Natures Incubator’ for producers of other more expensive exotic fowl. They generally do not make good ‘yard-birds’ as their eye sight is impaired due to the crest and ear muffs and they are not real agile with any sort of flight virtually impossible.




White Faced Black Spanish, Single Comb Clean Leg Class, (P) – My birds are about as good as they get in this breed and are very good according to “the book”, but I am not sure judges like them too much. However, as this breed regains the popularity they once had birds produced from my stock should be competitive in any show. This is a very old breed that is very striking in appearance with their large comb and wattles, and smooth white face and ear lobes that can become elongated to resemble a ‘bib’ in front of mature males. They are usually considered non-sitters and are very good producers of white eggs. As adults this bantam breed will be about 1.5 to 2 pounds each so they are a little larger than many of the other bantam breeds. The Spanish breed tends to do better than most other birds in warmer and more humid climates. They can be very active and therefore would make good foraging or ‘yard-birds’ if used in that environment although they can adapt well to confined situations too.

 

[Puddin Fluff]

Contacted Cackle hatchery. With all this talk about how their birds help start the U of A's program I thought I would see if they do the paperwork so I can bring some in Canada. Though they were very nice in answering my emails, seems Cackle doesn't. DARN! It is so frustrating finding stock in Canada.

aoxa is in Canada but I don't know what part. They are often on the thread and they have at least a pair. Dont' know if they are planning on shipping out eggs or not.

 

[aoxa]

aoxa is in Canada but I don't know what part. They are often on the thread and they have at least a pair. Dont' know if they are planning on shipping out eggs or not.

I'm in Eastern Canada.

If my birds EVER lay, I'd consider it. I am tempted to hoard them all to myself

I have 4 pairs. I am separating for breeding season very soon. Then putting lights up. I don't typically light during the winter, but I want to start breeding season by the end of February, and have it over by the end of April (or maybe May).

I posted a recent picture of one of my young males up there (not Gigi). He's 22 weeks old.

They all need a nice bath. They have messy crests.


Here is another one of my young pullets. Probably my favourite in looks (next to Skittles).She's also 22 weeks old.

 

[Puddin Fluff]

aoxa

I told you Spike began laying in late Nov. early Dec. at about 8 months. Well, she was laying daily a kind of small egg, same size as my banty cochin. We had a cold snap right before Christmas and she quit laying. I was a little worried about her and kept checking to make sure she wasn't internal laying or egg bound or anything and she wasn't. She just decided it was too cold I guess. So we go away this last week for a conference my hubby had to go to and my folks came up to stay with the kids. When we get back, I see Spike eggs. One for each day we were gone and they are almost twice as big as the ones from December. I need to take a Picture.

Crazy birds! I'll bet as soon as you guys get above freezing that your girls will start giving you eggs.

 

[aoxa]

aoxa

I told you Spike began laying in late Nov. early Dec. at about 8 months. Well, she was laying daily a kind of small egg, same size as my banty cochin. We had a cold snap right before Christmas and she quit laying. I was a little worried about her and kept checking to make sure she wasn't internal laying or egg bound or anything and she wasn't. She just decided it was too cold I guess. So we go away this last week for a conference my hubby had to go to and my folks came up to stay with the kids. When we get back, I see Spike eggs. One for each day we were gone and they are almost twice as big as the ones from December. I need to take a Picture.

Crazy birds! I'll bet as soon as you guys get above freezing that your girls will start giving you eggs.

I sure hope so!!

My silkies and my polish crosses are starting to lay, so the houdans need to get with the program!!

I have faith. There are 4 girls, so one of them has to lay sometime this spring.

 

[Puddin Fluff]

I sure hope so!!

My silkies and my polish crosses are starting to lay, so the houdans need to get with the program!!

I have faith. There are 4 girls, so one of them has to lay sometime this spring.

Do you keep your Houdans seperated or do you have a mixed flock? My silkie roo has taken a liking to Spike and I was wondering about a Houdan/silkie cross. Do you have pics of your polish/silkie crosses?

 

[aoxa]

Do you keep your Houdans seperated or do you have a mixed flock? My silkie roo has taken a liking to Spike and I was wondering about a Houdan/silkie cross. Do you have pics of your polish/silkie crosses?

I have them mixed in right now, as I'm not hatching, but I will separate during a certain period of time for breeding season to keep it all pure.





Here are my two female polish x silkie cross. I'm attempting to get them closer to a silkie..


They will be Sizzles eventually. This is generation 1. My male here will be mated back to silkies. The females above that are smooth will be mated back to silkie roosters. It's going to be a long process. Ah well.