How About a Jumbo Co Op

Ok, I am getting to many requests from FL and I want my eggs to go out all over the place. I actually was going to just get them to Texans and trying to figure a way to get packaging to mail them. But I want a few opinions on a few things and Diggypaws started this so thought way not.

So here is a list of states that are already getting them.
Also, so you know 2 of these people are breeders, 1 has worked in breeding chickens and worked with formulating Poultry Feed, others sell their birds and some raise them for meat and 1 is just starting out. That's why I commented about the cages and not going out to buy quail trays for a turner. Its just not necessary, but an incubator is.

Here goes:
Tx -3 and they were on the list before this list even started, but they have to be mailed not p/u or delivered.
FL- 2
MO -1
IL -1
OK - 1
AR -1
TN -1
PA -1

12 - 9 =3 available cartons left, for 2 dozen eggs to be mailed at the time of your Spring. Unless someone drops out and decided not to get my eggs. It is possible. I am pulling eggs for my hatch that I will set 12/15th then giving the girls a break. I may not have many fertile eggs, it is going to freeze tonight and has been cold last few days. No foam on the you know what, tonight.

I could have set soom older eggs, until the neighbors daughter came over and asked for eggs for food. Got their food stamps cut off. Please check with your neighbors and make sure the have food in their frig's. I think I am going to clean out my freezer real early this year and pass some chicken and quail around.

So how many of you are joining Diggys Jumbo CO-OP and who is coordinating? Doesn't matter if you get my eggs or not, have a sub group.
Are you CO-OPers going to have a sub group that you trade these eggs with so they can get them in their blood lines. Coarse you have to see what they are first.
How about other people that have Jumbos already and want them more consistent is size, or are just starting their own lines and want some tips sooner. I don;t know lots of reasons to join a Co-Op for Jumbos.

For the eggs that I send, I have set goals for them to achieve, and they have met those goals, here. They are not easy goals to reach. That is why I suggest that you raise them close to how I do. I would suggest that you plan on weighing at 6-7-8 weeks and there is a range of the weight goals set for each week to acheive. The birds to small should be removed to other grow out pens if possible, though it is not necessary. As your birds make your set goals as generations go on, the goals will need to be increased. I have already increased my since I started actually raising quail.

After the holidays I will work on writing up instruction sheets for raising them and send them (I will need e-mail's I quess to everyone on the list for my eggs). Ya, its long and windy and some of you will skip over the reading, but a lot of it you already know but not the WHY to do it that way. Problem is, very few of you that want the eggs are raising your birds this way. So it will be interesting to see if the New to Quail ends up with just as large birds. I think it is very possible.

This way you have some time to make changes if necessary, nothing drastic. All of this has been talked about on the quail topic threads, just the reasons are different or not known, or forgotten. So a lot of people are using other methods and are not able to get or keep the Jumbos at their size.

These are not breeding instructions. Just instructions on how to raise Jumbo Coturnix and I hope it works for you and it does explain why they are raised a little differently then the Pharoah size birds. If you have tall cages, shorten them to 12", use a tarp or blanket clipped to the inside just to experiment for the growout. I will admit that my growout cage is 18" tall and it worked. But I would not have anything higher, and I am thinking about shortening my grow out cage cause those boys like to flit around and that is not acceptable, we want to have more bigger boys to choose from for breeders. (The girls like the big boys if given a choice).

Rozzie are you helping diggypaws out on some of this? Or is someone else? She asked for help with coordinating and all the typing that is going to be involved. I can see where someone is going to need to coordinate, track who is getting what and when (different areas of the country, different times of the year, different levels of experience, maybe even different experiments with breeding situations). Oh, the logistics should be right up Rozzies alley and she needs to keep busy, anyway.

edited to add TN and PA so make that 12 -11 =1 pkg available.
 
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LMAO Needs to keep busy. OMG you haven't seen my to-do list...

It isn't me helping with the coordinating. Not sure who it is, though. If only I had time to take on yet another project...
 
*Cracks knuckles*

Right then. What sort of obsessive charting/organizing/something is needed? If there's one thing I can do, it's break down lists and set up goals (achieving those goals is where things get tricky for me
smile.png
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This is what I had planned on doing:

My grow pens are too tall (regular 18") so I'm going to be running rebar through the cage at the 12" mark, laying down a sheet of hardwire, and stuffing that top 8" with orchard grass (fun to consume, fun to hide under). If I get lazy I'll just stuff feed sacks up there instead.

I am weighing my quail every seven days so that I know roughly how quickly they are growing. This is a bit obsessive, since I don't think the weight matters at all until we hit butcher day, which for me is at the 8 week mark. My quail can be 6oz until they are six weeks old, then grow half an ounce a day for two weeks for all I care.

However, this is my proposition for anyone who wants to get in on the Co-Op:

1. Official weigh in at 42 days old (six weeks), seven weeks, eight weeks, nine weeks, and ten weeks. So we are charting the "last" five weeks of life. If you want to weigh longer or want to dress out your quail before they hit the ten-week mark then really, it's no big deal. We won't know how large they became, but we know that your strain will hit X weight in Y weeks, which means you're after a slightly smaller size, but still a faster growth rate by that age.

2. Record the top weights of your males separately from your females. Males and females will be different weights, so it isn't fair to expect a male to consistantly be as large as a female.

3. If possible with your hatch, record the _lowest_ weights. This will let us know how much consistancy there is in the weights. If you have five that hit 17oz, but 20 that only make it to 10oz, then we're not getting a lot of consistancy from the breeders. That will be important to know. Obviously you don't have to bother with runts and culls, but try to be as honest as possible with the lowest weights. The goal is not to produce the _one_ Moby Quail in the sea, but to be able to consistantly breed these giants.

Keep track of what days you swapped from starter to grower to breeder, the brand, and the protein percentages for anyone who isn't familiar with said brand. If you provided any supplements - water or feed - list how much and when. Who knows? The trick to Moby Quail may be feeding hardboiled eggs between ages 3-5, or keeping them on starter for half a week more.

Again, I'd rather have quail that get large because they are genetically predisposed to do so, but I'm not opposed to emailing out a how-to chart with my Moby eggs so that they reach their maximum potential.

What did I miss?
 
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I don't give treats of any kind. They get feed. That's it, I want big birds. I have on occasion given a branch of Millet to the selected new breeders (bigger dust bath in the grow out pwn) before they go to their breeding cages. Breeders can have treats after they have reached full size.

Change #1 to also weighting at 11 and 12 weeks, I have not noticed growth after 12 weeks, but I have noticed reduced weight. Why dustbaths are important.
Weighing at 6 -7-8 is a definate must as those are the weeks that we know they must reach the status of Jumbo - by week 6, weighting before that is optional, weighing after week 12 is optional, (to check status of health of breeders).

#2 Definately - always record separate Male weights. I have not worked on my males like I did with the females and it does show. I will do that with the F2's so you have more consistency in the size of the males - well at least get them bigger, earlier. But they are the reason for the shorter cages. They are the little trouble makers, bad boys that stay smaller, stir the others up, use their muscles (wings) when we don't want them to. But I tell you, when the girls start laying eggs, its pretty easy to ring the leg of a breeder. Boys I choose for mates, got just as big as the best breeder Females, just took them a little longer.

3# See, I never thought of that.

4# When I was doing #2 I thought of something else and now I have forgotten. Why its important to send out raising instructions with the eggs. People change things for their situation and reasons for doing something, gets lost over time. There's more, I 'll think of it at some point.

Well, maybe if you keep doing this everyone will have more ideas on changes they can make to experiment with their birds.

As for logistices of it. Some are going to be behind, first ones that get eggs. Because they will be starting later in the year. or later with eggs and they may try other experiments. For instance, I keep, my birds under a roof, I have tarps around the whole area for the winter. It does freeze here, but they will be atleast 10* warmer. They are always in lower light. Subdued light. Maybe, someone will want to try growing them out likewise, but put the breeders in a different situation. Later I will tell you about what happened when I moved the brooder box to the same area. Head ache and have to stop typing. Anyway, raise them close.
 
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I would love to try some of your eggs but I am more interested in your reading material.

Click that <--- spot over there that says email & send me a copy if you would please.
 
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Ok ,kingmt, I will make a note on that, but I think its all going to get discussed here anyway. I think that is what this is all about. AND trading eggs so that a line can keep going, especially for the people that can only keep 20 or so breeders.

SO, I have been informed that I am going to be doing Jury Duty in January. So that may slow me down a bit more. Oh, happy days...
 
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The "congratulations you have been selected & are here by ordered to" letter. I so love getting that paper in the mail & reading it right after my electric bill.
 
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The "congratulations you have been selected & are here by ordered to" letter. I so love getting that paper in the mail & reading it right after my electric bill.

THAT LETTER? FOR ME ITS MORE LIKE "WHAT LETTER? I DIDNT SEE ANY LETTER.... "
 
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Oh fun! I've been chosen twice. First time was federal grand jury. At that time in my life, it TRULY would have been a hardship to serve & the judge easily excused me. (My husband was away for training for a new job, I was in grad school & working, and I did not have transportation that would have gotten me to federal grand jury, several hours from where I lived.) The second time, I was sent my summons two years after I moved out of that state. Whew.

The next time will be some god-awful horrific case involving death and dismemberment, or worse, and I'll be stuck with no way to get out of it, I'm sure.
 

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