How and when to add new chick/chickens to existing 4 hens (1 3.5 year, 3 3month)

samhahn

Songster
5 Years
Aug 17, 2017
39
40
101
I had 2 white silkie hens. One of them died to a predator. So one hen named Ari lived my itself for about 2 years. We added 8 2 month silkies eventually and she kind of did things herself mostly. We gave away 2, then 3 more silkies that appeared to be roos. Ari seems to be getting along pretty well with remaining 3. She oftens leads the pack and most vocal now though it is smaller than other 3 1/2 month old "jumbo" bantam silkies after those 8 left. Hopefully remaining 3 are all hens.

Anyway we decided to get some female chicks for egg production. Today I figured I would introduce the chicks (6 small 2 week old Americanas and isa browns) sooner hoping Ari would get along better. We were wrong. Ari spotted and heard the chicks then it just started to squawk non-stop while other 3 silkies weren't making that much! We chased her away hoping she would calm down once there was some distance but nope. She never squawked this much before. She kept squawking loud even from the distance so we brought the chicks back to indoor and finally she became quiet after a few minutes.

I mean is this normal? I thought Ari being a silkie hen and all, she would be fine around these 2 week old chicks and get used to be around them soon and lead them as well. Should I wait till these female chicks get bigger like I did initially with the other silkies? Or just bring the Ari indoor with these chicks into a small 4x4 greenhouse and get her get used to them cold turkey style? To describe Ari's personality, she is usually quiet and cautious type. With other silkie, she sleep in a next box all by herself while other silkies sleep in the coop in the small run area below. This coop (about 2x6) is inside a greenhouse that is about 12x6.
 
You either integrate them early, when they're less likely to be seen as a threat by the older chickens, or integrate them later on when they're bigger and better able to fend for themselves. I integrate early but doing so requires some setting up that may not be feasible for you.

Are you planning on housing them all together as adults, or separately? Are you expanding the coop and run? Is the greenhouse the run or part of the coop? If the coop itself is only 2x6 you do NOT have space for these chicks in the same enclosure.
 
You either integrate them early, when they're less likely to be seen as a threat by the older chickens, or integrate them later on when they're bigger and better able to fend for themselves. I integrate early but doing so requires some setting up that may not be feasible for you.

Are you planning on housing them all together as adults, or separately? Are you expanding the coop and run? Is the greenhouse the run or part of the coop? If the coop itself is only 2x6 you do NOT have space for these chicks in the same enclosure
I am planning to house them together in the green house coop eventually. The 2x6 coop was by itself when I had 2 hens only. With new hens, the older coop was put inside the 12x6 green house which is acting as a new coop for them. During the day time, they have access to backyard where they get to forage.
 
Hope that green house is predator proof and not an oven in the sun.

I like to integrate chicks young:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/integrating-new-birds-at-4-weeks-old.72603/

But you still need to pay attention to the.....
Integration Basics:

It's all about territory and resources(space/food/water).
Existing birds will almost always attack new ones to defend their resources.
Understanding chicken behaviors is essential to integrating new birds into your flock.

Confine new birds within sight but physically segregated from older/existing birds for several weeks, so they can see and get used to each other but not physically interact.

In adjacent runs, spread scratch grains along the dividing mesh, best if mesh is just big enough for birds to stick their head thru, so they get used to eating together.

The more space, the better.
Birds will peck to establish dominance, the pecked bird needs space to get away. As long as there's no copious blood drawn and/or new bird is not trapped/pinned down and beaten unmercilessly, let them work it out. Every time you interfere or remove new birds, they'll have to start the pecking order thing all over again.

Multiple feed/water stations. Dominance issues are most often carried out over sustenance, more stations lessens the frequency of that issue.

Places for the new birds to hide 'out of line of sight'(but not a dead end trap) and/or up and away from any bully birds. Roosts, pallets or boards leaned up against walls or up on concrete blocks, old chairs tables, branches, logs, stumps out in the run can really help. Lots of diversion and places to 'hide' instead of bare wide open run.
Good ideas for hiding places:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/a-cluttered-run.1323792/
 
Thanks for the input. The green house is covered completely with the roof of the house and has multiple windows for ventilation. Also got outdoor ceiling fan right over it for added air circulation during summer. I would say it is relatively local predator proof which includes skunk, possum raccoon, and cats.
 
The green house is covered completely with the roof of the house and has multiple windows for ventilation.
Nice!
Pics?

I would say it is relatively local predator proof
Where in this world are you located?
Climate, and time of year, is almost always a factor.
Please add your general geographical location to your profile.
It's easy to do, and then it's always there!
1614630202849.png
 

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