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- #31
Saltywoodduck
Chirping
- May 19, 2022
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I also finished the inside yesterday. I guess some critique here will help too.
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I drilled out the soffit blocks
I can take them out completely if that is the solution. I will let you know on the low vents. I may add a few more to give a steady low convective flow. The perches are 1 1/4 wide. I don’t know as far as thickness. I had some meranti (Indonesian farmed Mahogany ) left over I ripped down for the perches. They are probably good for a hundred pounds at the thickness they are. I thought about the perch and poop issues, but I figured they needed a way to get up high. I had thought they all seek the top perch. Would it be better to eliminate the lower perch? I don’t have a ton of room I now see to play with the layout and am open for suggestions. thank you.Can you take the soffit blocks out completely? Little holes add square inches when you need square feet.
The baffled lower vents are an idea I haven't seen before. Let us know if they work or if they get clogged up with bedding, etc. They're small, but might help people with winter ventilation if they work.
The inside looks good except for one thing -- the perches cross so that birds sitting on the higher perch can poop on the ones below.
Also, how thick are those perches?
You do really nice, clean finish work. Highly professional.![]()
The perches are 1 1/4 wide
Would it be better to eliminate the lower perch?
THAT is the way to do a door. Much improved. Looks good, too!I took your suggestion, and started again with the door. Let me know if you approve.
understood. I will hope. Maybe a windbreak on lower run in winter will help them go out?
So if I took down the T section, that may eliminate the poop and flight interference issues?. I’ll update. I’ll check width too. Not really difficult for me to double it up.That's going to be too thin for the chickens' comfort. While chickens *can* grip with their toes, they generally roost more flat-footed -- not locking on the way a songbird does.
Roost size and shape are something that stirs up a lot of debate -- 2x4's wide side up, 2x4's narrow side up, natural branches, etc.
Two general points of agreement are to round over all corners and that large-fowl breeds (as opposed to bantams), need at least as wide as the narrow side of a 2x4 -- which is about 1 3/4". When they get full-sized and heavy they aren't comfortable on too narrow a perch and can have foot problems.
I can't tell well enough from the photos, but as a general rule chickens fly at about a 45-degree angle so it's good to never have a perch higher than the distance to the furthest wall. They have been known to crash into the wall trying to fly down.
Some birds benefit from a ramp or ladder of lower bars to help them get up and down. The Brahma in my avatar can't fly more than *maybe* 18" off the ground -- more of a wing-assisted leap. She'd sleep on the floor if I didn't give her a ramp to the roost.![]()
Thank you!THAT is the way to do a door. Much improved. Looks good, too!
I can't remember, is the run completely predator proof? Hardware cloth all around with a predator apron? If so, you can leave that coop door that you are wiring, open 24/7. I'm assuming that's the coop door the girls will be using to go from coop to run? And not outside to free range? If yes to my questions, let that door open all the time, even in winter. That way your girls can go out and in whenever they want. No need for you to worry about electricity failing and the door not opening for them. Mine is open all the time, even in winter. And my winters can get brutual. Plus, it's more ventilationWiring up my control box for my custom door today.