How long can eggs be under a broody before they start to develop?

smileygreen64

Chirping
Oct 4, 2016
97
34
66
Southeast Alabama
I have a broody sitting on eggs. I don't mind her sitting, but I have another hen that insists on laying in the same nest box as my broody. I collect eggs once a day when I get home from work. If I mark my broody 's eggs so I know which ones are hers, can I still collect the other eggs to put in the incubator? I don't know what time she lays her egg, so I don't know exactly how long they have been under her.
 
I have a broody sitting on eggs. I don't mind her sitting, but I have another hen that insists on laying in the same nest box as my broody. I collect eggs once a day when I get home from work. If I mark my broody 's eggs so I know which ones are hers, can I still collect the other eggs to put in the incubator? I don't know what time she lays her egg, so I don't know exactly how long they have been under her.
If you are putting them in an incubator you should be fine. But if I was you I would move your broody momma into her own spot where the others can't get into the spot with her. I have mine in a cage under the nest boxes with her eggs, and then babies when they hatch. Gives her her own place to be safe and undisturbed.

 
Any time that the internal temperature of the egg reaches 68° F development begins. Storing eggs at or above 68° drastically shortens the time that the egg will remain viable because you have a jerky stop and go mini incubation going on and this uses up the energy supplies of the egg and stresses the fetus before any real or meaningful development can begin. If this were not so then you could hatch an egg in your shirt pocket but the germ will die before it becomes a chick. Remember hatching a chick is a process that requires either you, or your hen, to follow a ridged sequence of events to achieve success. Hens follow this sequence of events because it is their nature. but we humans don't have the innate instinct to hatch an egg. This is why in a previous post I said that mechanical incubation is both work and problematic, while up to a point with natural incubation the less you mess with your setting hen the better her results will be, at least as long as you allow your hens to follow the basic parameters of chicken reproduction.

So it is advisable to remove every egg as it is laid and mark and date that egg then store it at 45° to 55° and 50-60% humidity until you can be sure your setting hen is committed to motherhood. Leaving eggs in the nest means that the eggs start and stop their development each and every time a new egg is added to the clutch.
 
Last edited:
Any time that the internal temperature of the egg reaches 68° F development begins. Storing eggs at or above 68° drastically shortens the time that the egg will remain viable because you have a jerky stop and go mini incubation going on and this uses up the energy supplies of the egg and stresses the fetus before any real or meaningful development can begin. If this were not so then you could hatch an egg in your shirt pocket but the germ will die before it becomes a chick. Remember hatching a chick is a process that requires either you, or your hen, to follow a ridged sequence of events to achieve success. Hens follow this sequence of events because it is their nature. but we humans don't have the innate instinct to hatch an egg. This is why in a previous post I said that mechanical incubation is both work and problematic, while up to a point with natural incubation the less you mess with your setting hen the better her results will be, at least as long as you allow your hens to follow the basic parameters of chicken reproduction.

So it is advisable to remove every egg as it is laid and mark and date that egg then store it at 45° to 55° and 50-60% humidity until you can be sure your setting hen is committed to motherhood. Leaving eggs in the nest means that the eggs start and stop their development each and every time a new egg is added to the clutch.
I don't worry about her being able to hatch. She is a proven broody who does well hatching. I have never heard of taking the eggs away until you think she has enough. I always let her decide. They just stop laying when she decides she has enough she wants to sit on.
If you are putting them in an incubator you should be fine. But if I was you I would move your broody momma into her own spot where the others can't get into the spot with her. I have mine in a cage under the nest boxes with her eggs, and then babies when they hatch. Gives her her own place to be safe and undisturbed.
I was concerned about moving her to a separate pen by herself. I didn't know if that would break her from being broody. I will try that though.
 
Any time that the internal temperature of the egg reaches 68° F development begins. Storing eggs at or above 68° drastically shortens the time that the egg will remain viable because you have a jerky stop and go mini incubation going on and this uses up the energy supplies of the egg and stresses the fetus before any real or meaningful development can begin. If this were not so then you could hatch an egg in your shirt pocket but the germ will die before it becomes a chick. Remember hatching a chick is a process that requires either you, or your hen, to follow a ridged sequence of events to achieve success. Hens follow this sequence of events because it is their nature. but we humans don't have the innate instinct to hatch an egg. This is why in a previous post I said that mechanical incubation is both work and problematic, while up to a point with natural incubation the less you mess with your setting hen the better her results will be, at least as long as you allow your hens to follow the basic parameters of chicken reproduction.

So it is advisable to remove every egg as it is laid and mark and date that egg then store it at 45° to 55° and 50-60% humidity until you can be sure your setting hen is committed to motherhood. Leaving eggs in the nest means that the eggs start and stop their development each and every time a new egg is added to the clutch.

I had no idea the temperature was that low for development. I read a couple articles on the subject. I just sit mine inside my house, which is always warmer than that. Thanks for the info. I need a way to store eggs more effectively.
 
I was concerned about moving her to a separate pen by herself. I didn't know if that would break her from being broody. I will try that though.

depends on the broody. Some don't mind if you move them 3 times in a row... as long as they have eggs to sit on.... others stop being broody if you move them once.

but I do think that putting her in her own space is way nicer.
 
I was concerned about moving her to a separate pen by herself. I didn't know if that would break her from being broody. I will try that though.
Do it at night and she will be more apt to let you move her. I had 2 that it took me 4 attempt to move her and the the 5th time she was finally just stayed there. I did it everyother night if I had to try more then once. But my bannies are so used to me moving them them when broody they kinda just go with the flow of things.
I will keep her and her babies, once they hatched, in the cage (that is still in the coop so the others are there but can't bother the babies) for a week then let them out with the flock. Momma will take care of what needs to be done. But having them still close the clock really helps get them as part of the flock early and wont have as many issues.
I have a bannie momma right now with 2 babies running with the flock.
 

New posts New threads Active threads

Back
Top Bottom