How to find the right coop if you can't build it?

[mowin]

I see no prob getting a truck and trailer between the fence and trees. Does the coop need to go inside that fence?

How about calling a local handy man to see about fixing up the current one? It's going to cost you money to remove the old coop, so why not put that into fixing it if the structure is as sturdy as you say.

Just looked at pic, I missed the gate the first time I looked.
I'd definitely have the guy look and judge for himself if he can get in there. As someone who has a trailer on the back of my truck constantly, it doesn't look that bad, but pics are deceiving. How wide is the gate?

 

[TwoShepherds]

As with all coops, you will find that you might need to add some wind and or rain protection on one side or one corner, depending on your micro-climate and the direction the prevailing winds come from. But, you'll easily figure that out once you get the coop placed.

Thanks so much for looking at the coops and taking the time to reply. It's super helpful! I was wondering if I might have to add some more lumber to one side for the winter time. We don't really have very hard winters, some cold days but very little snow. (I haven't even unpacked my winter coats and scarves from when we lived in Pennsylvania). We do get lots of rain so it might be nice for them to have some more enclosed space. The ventilation would be nice in the summers which are hot, humid, and brutal.

 

[TwoShepherds]

I see no prob getting a truck and trailer between the fence and trees. Does the coop need to go inside that fence?

How about calling a local handy man to see about fixing up the current one? It's going to cost you money to remove the old coop, so why not put that into fixing it if the structure is as sturdy as you say.

Just looked at pic, I missed the gate the first time I looked.
I'd definitely have the guy look and judge for himself if he can get in there. As someone who has a trailer on the back of my truck constantly, it doesn't look that bad, but pics are deceiving. How wide is the gate?

It's drive-through gate. I just measured and it is 12 feet wide. The grassy "driveway" is about 14 feet wide when you start to get really close to the trees.

I think I will contact the local builder sometime this week and see what he thinks.

The coop doesn't have to go inside the fence. There's somewhere between 1 to 1.5 acres in the chain link fence. The pros to putting the coop in the fence: it's the place where the kids and I spend the most time and where the grass is the most civilized, it's closer to the house so I can watch for predators more easily, and it'll be more convenient for chicken chores when I get home tired after work. The con: we have dogs. I wouldn't let the chickens free range while the dogs were loose.

If there's hope for the current coop, I would consider fixing it up.

 

[Ollieq]

If the coop that is coming on a trailer will fit without the trailer, there's has to be a way to get it to the area's you want. Small tractor to skid into place.

Has the coop builder actually looked at the property and said he can't get it into the spot? Maybe his trailer is smaller than your thinking.

Right. The coop company will have a way to get it where you want it. Just be did this. Darned trailer actually separated an turned sideways plopping the coop right where it belonged. The builders have to be able to sell and get it to you.

 

[CityslickerHomestead]

Here's the place where the truck/trailer would have to turn to get in our fence. I think it looks wider in the photo than it does in person. Pick-ups, SUVs can get in with no problem, but I would imagine anything larger would be an issue. The pasture is straight back. I would guess that the truck/trailer should be able to get in there.

View attachment 1730862

I should mention that we have an old chicken coop on our property in the area where I'd like to have the chickens. It's a total eyesore right now, but it's big and sturdy (8'W by 16' F long. If the design was good, I'd be willing to put in the work to fix it up, but it seems odd to me (though if you all tell me it's not, I'll believe you).

View attachment 1730886

The nesting boxes (I think there are four, but I'd have to double check) are sitting on the floor on the right side of the coop, and to get to them, you'd have to crawl through those tiny doors in the front. There's no man door. Also, once inside, you'd have to stoop. It measures about 5' 9" T on the outside (I'm 5'8"), but for whatever reason there's not enough room for me to stand up in the inside (or so it seems from just looking, I haven't felt the desire to go in). There is about a 12 inch drop off when you open the door, so you couldn't stand outside with a shovel and sweep out the litter--that would be a problem, wouldn't it? Even with the deep litter method, I would assume you'd have to shovel out the litter occasionally?

Can they drive in backwards? I know that may sound crazy, but I’ve done it and I am the least qualified person to do it.

 

[TwoShepherds]

Can they drive in backwards? I know that may sound crazy, but I’ve done it and I am the least qualified person to do it.

I have no idea, but I can ask him. I will send him some pictures, and let everyone know if he responds.

 

[TwoShepherds]

Right. The coop company will have a way to get it where you want it. Just be did this. Darned trailer actually separated an turned sideways plopping the coop right where it belonged. The builders have to be able to sell and get it to you.

Wow, that's impressive! What company did you go with, if you don't mind me asking? I completely understand if you want to keep that private.

 

[trumpeting_angel]

Get an estimate on the old coop. Building in external nesting box, raising the roof, and adding pop door and human door. It might cost more than the coop you're looking at, but it would save the cost of removing it, and preserve a bit of weathered barn board and history!

Where I live a coop isn't an eyesore unless it's made with old pallets, tires, and baling wire. Oh, and torn tarps and feed bags for rain protection.

 

[rosemarythyme]

Let's see... the old coop might be worth salvaging if the frame is structurally sound and there's not rot/mold issues, though I admit I probably wouldn't mainly because it does look like more work than it'd be worth.

With the coop builder's unit, I'll take a look at his site (I see he did walkthrough videos) and PM you with any comments I might think of.

 

[TwoShepherds]

Let's see... the old coop might be worth salvaging if the frame is structurally sound and there's not rot/mold issues, though I admit I probably wouldn't mainly because it does look like more work than it'd be worth.

With the coop builder's unit, I'll take a look at his site (I see he did walkthrough videos) and PM you with any comments I might think of.

Thank you! If you can find the time, I would really appreciate it! That is very thoughtful.

The sides and roof of the old coop are actually metal. The front is wood and maybe the back (I'd have to double check). The base seems to be buried into the ground. I don't think anything is rotting but some of the trim, but I could be wrong. If nothing else, I was thinking perhaps I could sand and stain it (or sand, prime and paint it) to have a secondary coop for adolescent birds or quarantine (though I hope I never need that). I have always assumed it was built by the former owners of our house, so it's probably around 10 years old. We do have a huge old barn on our property from the 40s. Sadly, it's in pretty bad shape, although the former owners put a new metal roof on it. If one of my future chickens starts laying golden eggs, I'd LOVE to have it restored.