How to hide nails poking through hen house ceiling

[FluffyMama]

I’m building a chicken coop and we’re shingling the plywood roof. The nails are protruding into the ceiling by 1/2” and I hate the look of it. I’m considering putting foam board and covering that w thin plywood sheathing. Do I need to worry about moisture buildup on the foam board and consequent mould/wood rotting? The building will be well ventilated. I live in North Eastern US. Thank you in advance.

 

[nuthatched]

I'd get some shorter screws, personally

 

[Ted Brown]

A grinder with a cut off disc would make short work of any screws poking through.

Do protect your face with a plastic mask or googles while doing this!!!

 

[StinkyAcres]

Rodents might be more of a problem when insulation is involved rather than moisture. Besides, ventilation should be through the soffits and foam and a ceiling would block that.

 

[ChickenFlockers]

I TOTALLY agree with you Ted !! If you don't have Air Supply / Portable Compressor ...
go to Hardware Store and Purchase any "Mandrel / Cutoff Wheel " or a " 1/4 " Grinding wheel that will fit an " ELECTRIC DRILL"

 

[The Moonshiner]

How thick is your plywood? I guess you could grind/cut the nails off but seems like a lot of work to me.
Idk anyone that uses screws to shingle with and roofing nails only come in certain lengths and I know 1/2" isn't an option and I don't think 3/4" is either.
I think what you're thinking is doable but most foamboard isn't cheap either. I know there's the cheap plain white kind but how much is it and the thin plywood?
If it was me I'd put down osb then plywood on that so it's a 1", 1 1/4" or whatever so nails don't go through. If plywood is down add another layer of plywood. That's imo the easiest route.
Kind of sounds/looks like you've already started nailing. No help in that case.

 

[ChickenFlockers]

How thick is your plywood? I guess you could grind/cut the nails off but seems like a lot of work to me.
Idk anyone that uses screws to shingle with and roofing nails only come in certain lengths and I know 1/2" isn't an option and I don't think 3/4" is either.
I think what you're thinking is doable but most foamboard isn't cheap either. I know there's the cheap plain white kind but how much is it and the thin plywood?
If it was me I'd put down osb then plywood on that so it's a 1", 1 1/4" or whatever so nails don't go through. If plywood is down add another layer of plywood. That's imo the easiest route.
Kind of sounds/looks like you've already started nailing. No help in that case.

Sounds like you said ...
already started Project [ or ongoing ]

" NEVER CHANGE HORSES IN THE MIDDLE OF THE STREAM "

I'm thinking they need a QUICK FIX to move on. But I love your thinking ! : - }

 

[The Moonshiner]

Sounds like you said ...
already started Project [ or ongoing ]

" NEVER CHANGE HORSES IN THE MIDDLE OF THE STREAM "

I'm thinking they need a QUICK FIX to move on. But I love your thinking ! : - }

How deep is the stream? How far into are you?
I mean if you just entered it might not be a big deal to back it up and switch those horses.
If you're not in deep might just throw caution to the wind and try a swap midstream.
Guess the unknowns have me not knowing the best way to proceed.

Maybe skip the foamboard? Run some 1 x 2s around the top edge and attach 1/4" or 3/8" plywood to them. Let the nails hang in the dead space?

 

[Ted Brown]

How thick is your plywood? I guess you could grind/cut the nails off but seems like a lot of work to me.
...
Kind of sounds/looks like you've already started nailing. No help in that case.

A grinder with cut off disc or "Mandrel / Cutoff Wheel " or a " 1/4 " Grinding wheel that will fit an " ELECTRIC DRILL" will remove any screws with very little effort unless you can't hold you arms over your head (in which case one has other issues).

And it is obvious from the pictures that the work is underway so the comment " NEVER CHANGE HORSES IN THE MIDDLE OF THE STREAM " is operative.

 

[The Moonshiner]

A grinder with cut off disc or "Mandrel / Cutoff Wheel " or a " 1/4 " Grinding wheel that will fit an " ELECTRIC DRILL" will remove any screws with very little effort unless you can't hold you arms over your head (in which case one has other issues).

And it is obvious from the pictures that the work is underway so the comment " NEVER CHANGE HORSES IN THE MIDDLE OF THE STREAM " is operative.

Ya I wasn't sure from the pic what was going on. I see 5 or 6 nails and they're mostly spread out. Doesn't seem like what I'd imagine from a full shingled other side.
Never used a drill with a cut off attachment. I'd use an air cut off wheel. Have used a grinder and imo those do get heavy fast holding above your head. A properly shingled roof is quite a few nails so imo more work then I'd want to do.
I was just looking for other options.