How to manage my broody

[NCF]

Hey everyone! I’ve got a broody pullet and I’m happy to let her sit. Of course she’s in the nest box because that’s where the eggs are. It’s a raised nest and I have a nice brooder built into my coop I’d like to move her into. Wondering if any time is better than another to encourage her to continue rather than quit. Also I’m thinking about ordering a few chicks to put under her so I can get the breeds and sexes that I want. If I do that what should she sit on til then? She has fertile eggs under her so I hate to let them develop then toss them out. Not sure if they suffer. Thanks everyone.

 

[sylviethecochin]

A lot of people don't let pullets sit (because they don't have the temperamental or physical maturity to set and raise chicks.) I personally haven't had issues with letting younger birds raise chicks, and have found that it can help them establish their position in the flock. May-June is pretty much the ideal time to hatch chicks, I think. The ground's had a chance to dry out, and the frost's mostly gone.

I generally use golf balls to keep broody hens satisfied until I have the eggs/chicks I want. I'd feel pretty guilty about setting eggs only to toss them halfway through incubation. Also, golf balls don't get chilled then die and rot, or crack then rot, or attract rats, then get eaten.

I prefer to let hens sit in the general vicinity of the flock. Some people have reported that this causes fights, but I personally have found that it keeps the hens in the pecking order so that there's no re-integration fuss. It truly depends on your flock.

You should wait about three weeks from beginning of set until giving her chicks, so she can undergo some hormonal changes. (right now, all she wants to see is eggs. Not weird, fluffy things that might want to eat the eggs.) I've found that anywhere from 2+ weeks works, though you should keep a very good eye on a pullet to make sure she doesn't starve herself or get a parasitic mite/lice infection over a longer setting period. Less than four weeks is ideal.

Introduce the chicks carefully, and be aware that you should have a backup brooder, just in case she doesn't like them. She won't need supplemental heat, even at night. I'd wait until she's accepted the chicks, then isolate her for a day or two so that the chicks accept her. Then re-introduce to flock while she's still crazy-mother-protective, and the other hens are used to her presence and place in the pecking order. Again, the success of this may depend on your flock.

 

[LRH97]

Agree 100% with sylvie.

I do always move the ones I want to let set out of the flock nest boxes. I've had too many problems with the other hens kicking the broody out of her nest, her switching nests, and then her eggs chilling. If you have an open brooder or a dog crate, that will work fine. If you can fit something within your coop, that's even better.

I usually use a dog crate, place it in a corner of the coop, shut her in until she's sitting comfortably (she may fuss at being moved for a little bit, but if she's serious, she'll calm down), and then open it back up to let her go out as she pleases. Do be sure she eats and drinks. Even if you have to boot her off the nest. Broodies are more prone to getting lice and mites, so if she's not eating like she should on top of that, it could be pretty taxing on her health. Good luck!