I need brooder ideas ....

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Do you have pics of the brooder cabinet? Or maybe Janelle can post a pic?

I'm trying to think of a way to make a large brooder that can be converted to a grow-out. If you have vinyl-coated wire on the bottom of the cage, and lay a solid bottom over that. One that could easily be slid out, like thin plywood or non-slid vinyl flooring. That way you can start with a solid floor, and graduate to a wire??

Instead of the "flush" system, you could always slide in plastic rabbit droppings trays.
 
Hi, Im new to this and I like your idea of the cardboard box maze (superchemicalgirl), but one question where did you attach the light?? Thank you all so much for your wonderful help on this forum, as a new almost chicken owner in 3 days its really helpful!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Coopa, here is a "how to" thread on the brooder unit Amy is talking about building.

https://www.backyardchickens.com/forum/viewtopic.php?id=416419

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Well, Janelle, you know the end stall where I said I was going to make the brooder room? We instead decided to use the upper stall where the ducks are now. I am building new duck pens (15x60 run with 4x8x4 coop divided in half for 2 runs-4 runs total with 2 coops) so the ducks will be out soon.

The stall is 10x14 as is the brooder room(aka tack room). I am thinking I will enclose the front a bit on that stall so summer storms won't be too harsh on baby birds but with summer coming I can have some open are at the front for ventilation. There is that permanent door there at the front with wire on the rest. It is just too hot in the brooder room in the summer once the chicks are 3 weeks old so they need a more outside room to grow up in.

We plan to put the brooders on legs so I can still have 8-16 week old chicks on the floor and able to go outside when the door is open or I will make a small pop door in the big door. Not sure how that will work since I don't want big chicks flying up onto the brooders and able to knock lights off but so far they have done well in the brooder room itself. I will secure brooder lights with bungie cords and attachments but still stuff can happen.

I am saying I am not hatching after October this year! I mean it! Next winter I would like to concentrate just on the big birds and not have to deal with chicks! I am sticking to it this year, I swear!
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Quote:
Well, Janelle, you know the end stall where I said I was going to make the brooder room? We instead decided to use the upper stall where the ducks are now. I am building new duck pens (15x60 run with 4x8x4 coop divided in half for 2 runs-4 runs total with 2 coops) so the ducks will be out soon.

The stall is 10x14 as is the brooder room(aka tack room). I am thinking I will enclose the front a bit on that stall so summer storms won't be too harsh on baby birds but with summer coming I can have some open are at the front for ventilation. There is that permanent door there at the front with wire on the rest. It is just too hot in the brooder room in the summer once the chicks are 3 weeks old so they need a more outside room to grow up in.

We plan to put the brooders on legs so I can still have 8-16 week old chicks on the floor and able to go outside when the door is open or I will make a small pop door in the big door. Not sure how that will work since I don't want big chicks flying up onto the brooders and able to knock lights off but so far they have done well in the brooder room itself. I will secure brooder lights with bungie cords and attachments but still stuff can happen.

I am saying I am not hatching after October this year! I mean it! Next winter I would like to concentrate just on the big birds and not have to deal with chicks! I am sticking to it this year, I swear!
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Here is what I would recommend you do......brooders similar to the one I have linked (that you are already going to build). However, make the bottom level taller. The very top can be mesh, so you can keep brooder lights on top. This top level would have a solid plywood floor (work with me here). The bottom level needs to be slightly taller, so that you can mount the lights INSIDE. This level can have a mesh floor, with trays underneath to catch the poop.

I would then divide the room into smaller areas. That way the floor pens "under" these brooders can be separated into different age groups, or whatever groups you want. If you ran these two levels of brooders along a 14' wall, you could have 3 top brooders and 3 bottom brooders, all approx 4'8" long. You could make them as deep as you want. 2 feet is a good depth where you can reach all the way to the back. I have another brooder that is 3.5 deep and its a pain...you have to use a bowl or board to kind of scoot them closer.

Do you understand what I'm picturing up there? i could draw it out if you want! LOL
 
Y'all are fancy schmancy!
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I just have mine in a rubbermaid tub!
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this group(just about 3 wks old) will be going out into the big dog crate in the barn come Monday or Tuesday... chicks hatching the end of this week beginning of next... then 26-30 hatchery chicks coming March 14-16th... Can't wait! Now if only all the snow would melt away so I can get the Buck-a'-Roo barn built and get my 2 bucklings, 1 SLRW( Splash Laced Red Wyandotte) rooster, and 6-10 assorted designer cockerels into it. What a busy start to this beautiful year!
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I'm a chicken mama :

Hi, Im new to this and I like your idea of the cardboard box maze (superchemicalgirl), but one question where did you attach the light?? Thank you all so much for your wonderful help on this forum, as a new almost chicken owner in 3 days its really helpful!!!!!!!!!!!!

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I have a "box maze" in two different rooms for 2 sets of chicks, and for both sets, I have the heat lamp hanging off a big nail in the wall. Not the best idea, but it works.​
 
I was just scrolling thru CL, as I frequently do, looking for ideas. I see a lot of discount places selling unused bath vanities (no plumbing holes punched yet). Many are discounted as "Scratch & Dent", etc. They seem to have a good depth (about 18"), are tall enough to hang a brooder lamp in, and come in a multitude of lengths. It seems that all you would need to do is replace the solid doors with hardware cloth wire, and add a top. And if you want them elevated, you could just add legs.

Has anyone tried this? Do you think it would work?
 

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