I NEED HELP ASAP W/ BABY DUCKS!!!! EMERGENCY!!!! final update pg 6
- Thread starter mom wewantchicks!
- Start date
They are adorable!!!
I'm so happy you saved them!!
I'm so happy you saved them!!
I've raised 12 ducks from babies. They've bred and now i have 10 babies i'm selling. I've also got 3 other mamas on nests and i'm waiting for whatever i'm blessed with. I've fed all of mine chick starter and had no problems. Although i do medicate the water with a light antibiotic to stop air sac inflation. They look great. Looks like the moms not returning. Congrats!
- May 11, 2008
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Those are wood ducks. I haven't raised any babies yet, but I've read about problems with them. Some people don't have luck getting them to eat, and they often die within 3-4 days. I will post a copy of some advice I was given, from a taxidermy forum of all places.....
There is a more reliable and more humane way to get baby wood ducks, mandarins, hooded mergansers, etc. to eat. Try to think like a duck and figure out what their problem is.
The reason they jump and jump and jump is because they are still stuck in "escape from the nesting cavity" mode.
They need to feel confident that they HAVE escaped in order to shut off that instinct. Your job is to convince them that they are no longer confined.
Step 1) Keep them in the DARK until they are completely dry from hatching. 24 hours at least. I think this is the most important part.
Step 2) Move them, abruptly, to a place that it VERY bright and as large as possible. You can drop them in if you like, but I don't think it is necessary. These two steps might be enough by themselves, but ....
Step 3) (the secret) Line all sides of the new brooder area with mirrors! I know it sounds silly, but it works. You can use mirrored tiles or you can build a brooder using those cheap door mirrors from Walmart. They won't jump against the sides if they can't figure out where the sides are! The mirrors greatly increase the amount of light, which adds to them thinking they are in the great outdoors, and they also give the illusion of LOTS of company. If one starts to eat it looks like several are doing it, and the others are that much more likely to catch on.
Another step that helps a lot, in my opinion, especially with extremely wild ones, is to give them a dark refuge where they can run and hide when they feel threatened. I don't think this would be needed for most ducklings, but I used it with total success when I hatched some 100% wild-stock wood ducks from a clutch of abandoned eggs. All that I did was make a 3" hole in the side of the brooder (the ONLY gap without a mirror!) that led into a dark cardboard box lined with shavings. I had a folded heating pad covering one side and half of the bottom.
When the ducklings were scared, which was often, (they were the wildest woodies I have ever seen) they would all scamper in there and hide. They were calmer and more secure knowing they had a refuge, so I followed the "rules" by never peeking or bothering them when they were in the box.
I used freeze-dried krill (saltwater fish food) to help them get started eating. I sprinkled a few in their water and stood back to watch the fun. Dried krill are pretty close to live insects nutritionally and a lot easier to keep on hand. I used them sparingly. Once the babies got the idea of eating, they were pretty quick to find their starter feed.
I know it seems like a lot of trouble, but all of this is only needed for a few days - maybe a week at tops. Once the babies are well-started they can be moved to a normal setup. Since even one extra survivor is easily worth the cost of the mirrors I figure it is a good investment.
This lady who gave the advice is very knowledgable about birds. Maybe give it a try, and hopefully your babies will be ok.
One more thing, and I hate to do this,... but find out what you have to do to legally keep these babies. Wild wood ducks are federally protected, so there could be trouble if the wrong person finds out about them. Speaking from experience here --I had a canada goose when I was a kid, and somehow somebody tipped off the Game Warden. He came to our house and told my mom we had to turn it loose right away, or he was taking her to jail. The goose was hatched from an egg, and completely imprinted. We gave him to a lady with a duck pond, and everything turned out fine. But those lousy game wardens do have the authority, and they don't usually give much slack.
There is a more reliable and more humane way to get baby wood ducks, mandarins, hooded mergansers, etc. to eat. Try to think like a duck and figure out what their problem is.
The reason they jump and jump and jump is because they are still stuck in "escape from the nesting cavity" mode.
They need to feel confident that they HAVE escaped in order to shut off that instinct. Your job is to convince them that they are no longer confined.
Step 1) Keep them in the DARK until they are completely dry from hatching. 24 hours at least. I think this is the most important part.
Step 2) Move them, abruptly, to a place that it VERY bright and as large as possible. You can drop them in if you like, but I don't think it is necessary. These two steps might be enough by themselves, but ....
Step 3) (the secret) Line all sides of the new brooder area with mirrors! I know it sounds silly, but it works. You can use mirrored tiles or you can build a brooder using those cheap door mirrors from Walmart. They won't jump against the sides if they can't figure out where the sides are! The mirrors greatly increase the amount of light, which adds to them thinking they are in the great outdoors, and they also give the illusion of LOTS of company. If one starts to eat it looks like several are doing it, and the others are that much more likely to catch on.
Another step that helps a lot, in my opinion, especially with extremely wild ones, is to give them a dark refuge where they can run and hide when they feel threatened. I don't think this would be needed for most ducklings, but I used it with total success when I hatched some 100% wild-stock wood ducks from a clutch of abandoned eggs. All that I did was make a 3" hole in the side of the brooder (the ONLY gap without a mirror!) that led into a dark cardboard box lined with shavings. I had a folded heating pad covering one side and half of the bottom.
When the ducklings were scared, which was often, (they were the wildest woodies I have ever seen) they would all scamper in there and hide. They were calmer and more secure knowing they had a refuge, so I followed the "rules" by never peeking or bothering them when they were in the box.
I used freeze-dried krill (saltwater fish food) to help them get started eating. I sprinkled a few in their water and stood back to watch the fun. Dried krill are pretty close to live insects nutritionally and a lot easier to keep on hand. I used them sparingly. Once the babies got the idea of eating, they were pretty quick to find their starter feed.
I know it seems like a lot of trouble, but all of this is only needed for a few days - maybe a week at tops. Once the babies are well-started they can be moved to a normal setup. Since even one extra survivor is easily worth the cost of the mirrors I figure it is a good investment.
This lady who gave the advice is very knowledgable about birds. Maybe give it a try, and hopefully your babies will be ok.
One more thing, and I hate to do this,... but find out what you have to do to legally keep these babies. Wild wood ducks are federally protected, so there could be trouble if the wrong person finds out about them. Speaking from experience here --I had a canada goose when I was a kid, and somehow somebody tipped off the Game Warden. He came to our house and told my mom we had to turn it loose right away, or he was taking her to jail. The goose was hatched from an egg, and completely imprinted. We gave him to a lady with a duck pond, and everything turned out fine. But those lousy game wardens do have the authority, and they don't usually give much slack.
Wood ducks are hard to raise and it should be done by a licensed rehabber. Call your local Fish and Wildlife Department and they will guide you to a rehabber. In the US you must have permits to raise wood ducks as they are federally protected.
In the meantime, get them off the newspaper and on straw or shavings covered with papertowels. If they get spraddle, they will never survive in the wild. Make sure the brooder box is about 80 to 90 degrees. You can tell if they are cold or hot by their behavior. Provide an area where they can get away from you and hide.
Do NOT drop them. It is unnecessary. They will eat when they are hungry. They are likely still absorbing the yolksac.
I see they are wet. Raise the waterer so they can drink but not play in it.
Do not handle them, they are wild animals and if they get used to humans they will not survive in the wild, which is where they belong. Wood ducks are easily stressed to the point of dyiing from it. For the sake of these ducks, get them to a rehabber who is experienced in wild duck care.
In the meantime, get them off the newspaper and on straw or shavings covered with papertowels. If they get spraddle, they will never survive in the wild. Make sure the brooder box is about 80 to 90 degrees. You can tell if they are cold or hot by their behavior. Provide an area where they can get away from you and hide.
Do NOT drop them. It is unnecessary. They will eat when they are hungry. They are likely still absorbing the yolksac.
I see they are wet. Raise the waterer so they can drink but not play in it.
Do not handle them, they are wild animals and if they get used to humans they will not survive in the wild, which is where they belong. Wood ducks are easily stressed to the point of dyiing from it. For the sake of these ducks, get them to a rehabber who is experienced in wild duck care.
Hello! So, I used to be a wildlife rescue volunteer for over ten years--never had I dealt with wood ducks, but just about everything else you could imagine. I now have about 16 ducks and own a couple pairs of mandarins. Anyhow, I've been trying to find some wildlife rescues in your state and not having much luck. I did find this rescue, which is a National Park, but also said to be a rescue--here's their number: (304) 535-2316
I will tell you that they need food ASAP. They do need time to calm down and may show more interest in food. I would take out the newspaper in the bottom--that will give them spraddle leg. Nor would I put wood shavings in the bottom, as they like to forage and may inhale a chip. What I do and have always done was use a large old t-shirt or old wash cloth. Something you don't mind tossing later and lay that in the bottom. I would also suggest putting an old shoebox in on it's side, so they have a place to nest down. They're probably very scared right now, so need to feel secure and again, once that's instilled, you'll probably have more success with eating. If they aren't eating, you may want to go dig up some worms and at least feed them that for now--just drop a few on the bottom and see what they do(try not to hover as their wild instincts are intact and you will just make them nervous).
I do know that ALL Ducklings also need greens--chopped tender grass, dandelions, clover, cabbage, lettuce, etc. Also provide some fine grit--they are foragers.
Ducklings chill easily, especially if wet so they should have a water container with an opening only large enough for their heads to fit in, just like the one you have. They need to rinse their nostrils and eyes. Ducks aren't waterproof and weatherproof until about 7 or 8 weeks old. Their oil gland (at the base of the tail on top) will start working then and they will start preening their feathers to waterproof themselves. The mother duck provides waterproofing and warmth in the wild, so you need to get a heat lamp in there(you can buy the clip on kind at wal-mart and just use a regular bulb for now--60 watts).
Sorry! Hope this helps! It's too bad you live a bit of a distance or I'd try to help in person!
God bless,
Tracey
I will tell you that they need food ASAP. They do need time to calm down and may show more interest in food. I would take out the newspaper in the bottom--that will give them spraddle leg. Nor would I put wood shavings in the bottom, as they like to forage and may inhale a chip. What I do and have always done was use a large old t-shirt or old wash cloth. Something you don't mind tossing later and lay that in the bottom. I would also suggest putting an old shoebox in on it's side, so they have a place to nest down. They're probably very scared right now, so need to feel secure and again, once that's instilled, you'll probably have more success with eating. If they aren't eating, you may want to go dig up some worms and at least feed them that for now--just drop a few on the bottom and see what they do(try not to hover as their wild instincts are intact and you will just make them nervous).
Ducklings chill easily, especially if wet so they should have a water container with an opening only large enough for their heads to fit in, just like the one you have. They need to rinse their nostrils and eyes. Ducks aren't waterproof and weatherproof until about 7 or 8 weeks old. Their oil gland (at the base of the tail on top) will start working then and they will start preening their feathers to waterproof themselves. The mother duck provides waterproofing and warmth in the wild, so you need to get a heat lamp in there(you can buy the clip on kind at wal-mart and just use a regular bulb for now--60 watts).
Sorry! Hope this helps! It's too bad you live a bit of a distance or I'd try to help in person!
God bless,
Tracey
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Dont use medicated feed. And dont use newspaper. Newspaper can lead to spraddle leg.
You can also drop a few meal worms in their feed dish. Somebody brought me a duckling that they rescued from their dog a few years ago, it was a week or so old. I raised her and turned her loose on my stock pond (turns out she was a wood duck).
- Thread starter
- #29
UPDATE
well first off i lost one during the night i feel terrible. we did keep them at first in a covered box hopeing the mom could hear them,if she was around,im sure she could!!! she never came back! they seem ok this morning,dry and snuggled together. last night i decided to cover the entire box w/ a towel and that helped (that made it dark and they settled down) im not sure if they are eating,but i thought id got out and pick some grass and i was thinking of sending dh to the store for some worms,maybe meal worms? or maybe will will just dig some up,those nightcrawllers are huge at the store. ive looked for rehabers and no luck,im going to call the number (thank-you sooo much!!!!) and see what they say! and wood ducks??? wow i would have never guessed!! i left that up to dh as hes the duck guy,but i quess i'll have to tell him,he in fact does not know everything!! i'll keep leaving updated to keep you all informed and thank you so much for all the help!
well first off i lost one during the night i feel terrible. we did keep them at first in a covered box hopeing the mom could hear them,if she was around,im sure she could!!! she never came back! they seem ok this morning,dry and snuggled together. last night i decided to cover the entire box w/ a towel and that helped (that made it dark and they settled down) im not sure if they are eating,but i thought id got out and pick some grass and i was thinking of sending dh to the store for some worms,maybe meal worms? or maybe will will just dig some up,those nightcrawllers are huge at the store. ive looked for rehabers and no luck,im going to call the number (thank-you sooo much!!!!) and see what they say! and wood ducks??? wow i would have never guessed!! i left that up to dh as hes the duck guy,but i quess i'll have to tell him,he in fact does not know everything!! i'll keep leaving updated to keep you all informed and thank you so much for all the help!
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