Those are wood ducks. I haven't raised any babies yet, but I've read about problems with them. Some people don't have luck getting them to eat, and they often die within 3-4 days. I will post a copy of some advice I was given, from a taxidermy forum of all places.....
There is a more reliable and more humane way to get baby wood ducks, mandarins, hooded mergansers, etc. to eat. Try to think like a duck and figure out what their problem is.
The reason they jump and jump and jump is because they are still stuck in "escape from the nesting cavity" mode.
They need to feel confident that they HAVE escaped in order to shut off that instinct. Your job is to convince them that they are no longer confined.
Step 1) Keep them in the DARK until they are completely dry from hatching. 24 hours at least. I think this is the most important part.
Step 2) Move them, abruptly, to a place that it VERY bright and as large as possible. You can drop them in if you like, but I don't think it is necessary. These two steps might be enough by themselves, but ....
Step 3) (the secret) Line all sides of the new brooder area with mirrors! I know it sounds silly, but it works. You can use mirrored tiles or you can build a brooder using those cheap door mirrors from
Walmart. They won't jump against the sides if they can't figure out where the sides are! The mirrors greatly increase the amount of light, which adds to them thinking they are in the great outdoors, and they also give the illusion of LOTS of company. If one starts to eat it looks like several are doing it, and the others are that much more likely to catch on.
Another step that helps a lot, in my opinion, especially with extremely wild ones, is to give them a dark refuge where they can run and hide when they feel threatened. I don't think this would be needed for most ducklings, but I used it with total success when I hatched some 100% wild-stock wood ducks from a clutch of abandoned eggs. All that I did was make a 3" hole in the side of the brooder (the ONLY gap without a mirror!) that led into a dark cardboard box lined with shavings. I had a folded heating pad covering one side and half of the bottom.
When the ducklings were scared, which was often, (they were the wildest woodies I have ever seen) they would all scamper in there and hide. They were calmer and more secure knowing they had a refuge, so I followed the "rules" by never peeking or bothering them when they were in the box.
I used freeze-dried krill (saltwater fish food) to help them get started eating. I sprinkled a few in their water and stood back to watch the fun. Dried krill are pretty close to live insects nutritionally and a lot easier to keep on hand. I used them sparingly. Once the babies got the idea of eating, they were pretty quick to find their starter feed.
I know it seems like a lot of trouble, but all of this is only needed for a few days - maybe a week at tops. Once the babies are well-started they can be moved to a normal setup. Since even one extra survivor is easily worth the cost of the mirrors I figure it is a good investment.
This lady who gave the advice is very knowledgable about birds. Maybe give it a try, and hopefully your babies will be ok.
One more thing, and I hate to do this,... but find out what you have to do to legally keep these babies. Wild wood ducks are federally protected, so there could be trouble if the wrong person finds out about them. Speaking from experience here --I had a canada goose when I was a kid, and somehow somebody tipped off the Game Warden. He came to our house and told my mom we had to turn it loose right away, or he was taking her to jail. The goose was hatched from an egg, and completely imprinted. We gave him to a lady with a duck pond, and everything turned out fine. But those lousy game wardens do have the authority, and they don't usually give much slack.