I was also thinking.. the first year I lived hear we only only got maybe 50 inches of rain and I only had a few chickens... but I had to treat for cocci that year. And 82 birds isn't my usual stock number, that was my max load last year. My point is that I know things are not always equal everywhere all the time even here and in NO way do I intend to indicate I have done anything better, I KNOW I haven't.
Do you feed layer feed? What is you protein%? Did you know that Orps are dual purpose birds and will do best on about 18% or more protein? Also, if they aren't laying much the usual 4% calcium in Layer *can* (doesn't mean will) cause gout and possibly kidney failure if fed "long term" to birds not in lay, including roosters (sudden death but not saying that was it), juveniles, broody's, and molting hens. Fruits very well can have impact on stool condition in addition to diminishing the protein level of the feed. But if you do have recurring issue with round worms that you need to treat your pasture for or can.. thank you for sharing the opportunity to learn about it with me! I never know what I will face in the future and know that anything can happen to any of us. Seeing how others deal with these things helps me to consider what I will do. Also I share a lot with my daughter when I learn it and then when the time comes she remembers the solutions I shared that my brain might be to busy to recall during an emergency. It's great to have a support team. Most ALL chickens will look the picture of health until they suddenly don't right before they pass.
That's why it's the little clues we try to notice, sometimes there aren't any. 
Even though 4 years may not be old per say but he was no spring chicken anymore... it's still a good length of life. And he must have been a pretty good boy, to be allowed to hang out that long!
Feel free to share pics in their memory.
I guess I was thinking the "colder" 30's over night low would have some impact on cocci count and that (60's)- 70 isn't THAT warm. But During this process, what I have realized is that the warmer "brooder" temperatures are just where cocci max out easiest... but they are still surely around at "lower" temps even if a little "less" active... and interesting to see what my perspective of "warmer, humid" conditions is.
I'm gonna apologize for saying this again
... I wouldn't worm an already ill bird (yesterday) unless I knew that was your issue. Not sure if this info was shared after the fact... so just in case, for future reference. It's really hard on them.
I understand your vet doesn't treat chickens, but all vets can run a fecal float for coccidia and worms, if it's within your means. I almost died yesterday paying $50/ 2 floats. One for the dogs and 1 for the chickens. So if you don't already know about it, you can do a "flock" sample and just mix multiple samples into one, since we usually treat the whole flock anyways. But I understand now why, that may not be the right solution for everybody... and that sometimes we just do the best we can with the information and resources that are available to us!
But other species actually stay in the gut and ONLY their MICROSCOPIC eggs will pass in the feces? But also, not all wormer medications treat all worms. So if you have one of those species you might not be treating for it.
Sorry about the mini quack rant earlier, it wasn't directed at you guys! Just the first time I got to share and get it off my chest since I herd that. But worse part is the feed store employees often share their bad information. I too have shared bad info as I'm learning something new all the time, but try not too.
Hope your weather clears up for you. And you get this all straightened out. It really stinks when things are going wrong especially if you aren't sure why.
Cocci is a definite possibility. And not a death sentence at all. But there could be a perfect storm of other things that come together to make it harder on a bird. My best suggestion will be not to try treating all kinds of things at once, and go one step at a time in order to not possibly make things worse. I would treat with the Corid, but maybe hold of on any more worming, for now. It also won't hurt to offer a little plain yogurt or some use apple cider vinegar (raw, unfiltered. I don't know the dose recommendation.) in their water as a source of probiotics to help the digestive system get it's gut flora back in order. This might be helpful in your case. In addition... I would skip the fruits (at least until you don't see any runs just for confirmation) and offer things with protein like peas or left over meat, even chicken. Eggs are a great source of easy to digest nutrients loaded with vitamins and minerals but they are also a little high in fat, so not excessively. Formulated ration is the best feed you can offer to your flock. Even though it is made of mostly corn or wheat, it has added vitamins, minerals, and amino acids that make it a complete feed. For dual purpose and older birds (like your roo was and your Orp) that molt I suggest 18-20% protein grower or flock raiser with oyster shell on the side instead of mixed in. That is what I feed my whole flock all year long because it seems to be a happy medium for my many age and gender, ever changing flock.
Wish I could be more help. Hope your flock thrives and put's this behind them quickly!
Do you feed layer feed? What is you protein%? Did you know that Orps are dual purpose birds and will do best on about 18% or more protein? Also, if they aren't laying much the usual 4% calcium in Layer *can* (doesn't mean will) cause gout and possibly kidney failure if fed "long term" to birds not in lay, including roosters (sudden death but not saying that was it), juveniles, broody's, and molting hens. Fruits very well can have impact on stool condition in addition to diminishing the protein level of the feed. But if you do have recurring issue with round worms that you need to treat your pasture for or can.. thank you for sharing the opportunity to learn about it with me! I never know what I will face in the future and know that anything can happen to any of us. Seeing how others deal with these things helps me to consider what I will do. Also I share a lot with my daughter when I learn it and then when the time comes she remembers the solutions I shared that my brain might be to busy to recall during an emergency. It's great to have a support team. Most ALL chickens will look the picture of health until they suddenly don't right before they pass.
That's why it's the little clues we try to notice, sometimes there aren't any. Even though 4 years may not be old per say but he was no spring chicken anymore... it's still a good length of life. And he must have been a pretty good boy, to be allowed to hang out that long!
Feel free to share pics in their memory.I guess I was thinking the "colder" 30's over night low would have some impact on cocci count and that (60's)- 70 isn't THAT warm. But During this process, what I have realized is that the warmer "brooder" temperatures are just where cocci max out easiest... but they are still surely around at "lower" temps even if a little "less" active... and interesting to see what my perspective of "warmer, humid" conditions is.
I'm gonna apologize for saying this again
... I wouldn't worm an already ill bird (yesterday) unless I knew that was your issue. Not sure if this info was shared after the fact... so just in case, for future reference. It's really hard on them.How long ago was this that new birds were added to your flock? I'm trying not to get my wires crossed, because your other post said no new birds. But now I notice these were the new birds... talking about your buff.
I understand your vet doesn't treat chickens, but all vets can run a fecal float for coccidia and worms, if it's within your means. I almost died yesterday paying $50/ 2 floats. One for the dogs and 1 for the chickens. So if you don't already know about it, you can do a "flock" sample and just mix multiple samples into one, since we usually treat the whole flock anyways. But I understand now why, that may not be the right solution for everybody... and that sometimes we just do the best we can with the information and resources that are available to us!
How do you determine if there is a problem? Did you know that only round worms and tape worms can be seen in droppings and even then only under heavy load? That's a pretty good indicator, I imagine.
But other species actually stay in the gut and ONLY their MICROSCOPIC eggs will pass in the feces? But also, not all wormer medications treat all worms. So if you have one of those species you might not be treating for it.Sorry about the mini quack rant earlier, it wasn't directed at you guys! Just the first time I got to share and get it off my chest since I herd that. But worse part is the feed store employees often share their bad information. I too have shared bad info as I'm learning something new all the time, but try not too.
Hope your weather clears up for you. And you get this all straightened out. It really stinks when things are going wrong especially if you aren't sure why.
Cocci is a definite possibility. And not a death sentence at all. But there could be a perfect storm of other things that come together to make it harder on a bird. My best suggestion will be not to try treating all kinds of things at once, and go one step at a time in order to not possibly make things worse. I would treat with the Corid, but maybe hold of on any more worming, for now. It also won't hurt to offer a little plain yogurt or some use apple cider vinegar (raw, unfiltered. I don't know the dose recommendation.) in their water as a source of probiotics to help the digestive system get it's gut flora back in order. This might be helpful in your case. In addition... I would skip the fruits (at least until you don't see any runs just for confirmation) and offer things with protein like peas or left over meat, even chicken. Eggs are a great source of easy to digest nutrients loaded with vitamins and minerals but they are also a little high in fat, so not excessively. Formulated ration is the best feed you can offer to your flock. Even though it is made of mostly corn or wheat, it has added vitamins, minerals, and amino acids that make it a complete feed. For dual purpose and older birds (like your roo was and your Orp) that molt I suggest 18-20% protein grower or flock raiser with oyster shell on the side instead of mixed in. That is what I feed my whole flock all year long because it seems to be a happy medium for my many age and gender, ever changing flock.
Wish I could be more help. Hope your flock thrives and put's this behind them quickly!
