I wanna get a bunny! Questions...

SOme of my favorite breeds are netherland dwarfs, mini rex, holland lop, mini lop, dutch, and lionhead.
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You need 2 rabbits because they are social (preferably male and female as they get along best) and they both need to be spayed/neutered before they are bonded to each other. Rabbits have raging hormones that make them fight with each other and have behavioral problems- neutering/spaying solves this. Bonding can be a bit complicated so for info on that go on Rabbits United Forum.

A good cage is a C&C cage or dog crate. A puppy playpen attached to the cage/dog crate would be even better. but neither is good enough for them to live in. They need plenty of free range time in the house everyday.

Rabbits need a diet of 85-90% hay. The rest of their diet is veg/herbs and pellets. Give a handful of pellets and a handful of veg/herbs a day and otherwise the rabbits should have a unlimited supply of grass hay (Timothy, Orchard Grass, or Coastal).

Rabbits can be very expensive pets due to health problems. Stasis and dental problems for instance can cost quite a lot. So its a good idea to have a vet fund or a credit card in case of expensive unexpected health problems.
 
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Of no disrespect to you, I have to disagree. Rabbits often have problems getting along with each other and they really do prefer a person. Once they pick their person, all others are subject to their misbehavior.

And their diet needs to be a minimum of 18% protein. Purina show offers that, and may other pellets do not. A rabbits diet should consist of mainly pellets and timothy hay. Too many treats interfere with their sensitive digestive systems.
 
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Of no disrespect to you, I have to disagree. Rabbits often have problems getting along with each other and they really do prefer a person. Once they pick their person, all others are subject to their misbehavior.

And their diet needs to be a minimum of 18% protein. Purina show offers that, and may other pellets do not. A rabbits diet should consist of mainly pellets and timothy hay. Too many treats interfere with their sensitive digestive systems.

Yeah, like I said bonding can be a bit difficult and time consuming but in the wild they live in colonies and I've talked with people who have had depressed rabbits (even though they were house rabbits with free range and plenty of attention) and completely changed when they had a friend so I think its important they have a friend.

Sometimes,like with humans, 2 rabbits may not like each other. So its best to either adopt an already bonded pair or get siblings that are young and fix them when they are old enough, but you'd have to get a same sex pair then obviously. Even still they could fight when they reach 12 wks. Males can be neutered at 12 wks, as long as their testicles have dropped, but females have to be spayed at 5-6 months old.

Oxbow is the best pellets brand I think, its Timothy hay based and has 14% protein I believe. Too much protein actually is bad and can give buns messy poop problems (called "sludge" I think, my Izzy had this when he refused to eat anything but pellets). With veggies/herbs as long as you introduce it slowly you probably won't have any problems. They do need about a handful a day of veggies/herbs, healthy ones rather than sugary or gassy ones. some rabbits are extra sensitive so herbs and "natural" foods like safe weeds, leaves, willow and apple twigs to strip, and flowers are better than veggies.
 
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They're territorial when they aren't fixed.

There are a lot of myths about rabbits. Some people are still under the impression that rabbits don't need hay. I guess no one can really understand how social rabbits are until they witness 2 bonded bunnies. I personally would never keep just 1 rabbit unless I had tried and failed to bond it and knew it wouldn't work out, even with another rabbit.
 
I've had several rabbits in the past, Flemish Giant, Mini-Lop, Netherland Dwarf, and Holland Lops. I thought the mini-Lop was the sweetest, although the Flemish Giant seemed very smart-----she loved playing with my cats (supervised, of course). I hated the Netherland Dwarfs----we had 2 of them, and they were very bitey/nippy and tempermental. My sister has also had rabbits, and she prefers the Mini-Rex----both for it's fur and sweet temperment (In fact, she's getting one this weekend!).

I think one rabbit by itself is just fine----the only ones I had more than one of at a time were the Holland Lops (which lived outside) and the Netherland Dwarfs. Just make sure it's not stuck alone in it's cage all the time----mine were caged when we were gone, and loose when we were home (of course you'll need to rabbit -proof your home----which includes protecting all wires, PVC pipe is good for that).

I like males better than females.

As for food, what others said is correct----mostly Timothy hay and a handful of pellets and vegetables a day. Good luck with your venture.
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If I remember correctly, the reason alfalfa and alfalfa based pellets are not a good primary feed for long term is that they have too much calcium. Fine for meat animals, but pets will develop bladder stones after a while.
 
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If I remember correctly, the reason alfalfa and alfalfa based pellets are not a good primary feed for long term is that they have too much calcium. Fine for meat animals, but pets will develop bladder stones after a while.

It is mainly because rabbits have very sensitive digestive systems and are prone to issues in that area, so yes, alfalfa is not a good choice. The amount of alfalfa they need is in the pellets and more than that can be detrimental to their health. Timothy hay aids with digestion.
 
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If they are raised together from birth, they do ok, but by a certain age they start breeding
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But yes they are solitary animals, and really prefer their people to each other.
 
This is my first time having a bonded pair of rabbits, and they remind me of having two dogs together. Yes, dogs are social, but it is usually not recommended to bring in two dogs of the same age at once, especially if young. One thing is they tend to bond more to each other, be more dog-oriented in general, and one tends to overshadow the other. That is what I noticed with our bonded rabbits. They were less likely to interact with people, and the female pushed around the male to the point that he wouldn't do much of anything on his own. We now cage them separately, but they still have time to interact with each other. This has made them much more social with people, the female isn't as destructive/moody, and the male has come out of his shell and will now explore on his own and binkies a lot more. As with dogs, we have not noticed any depression on their part in keeping them singly and as members of the family. As always, I think it is up to the owner to see what works best for their individual animal. For example, I tend not to keep female rats alone as solitary females tend to self-barber. Some of the male rats I've had though prefer to be solitary rats.

My favorite pet breeds I've had experience with or have personally had as pets are in order:

-English Lops. They toppeled angoras for me, which is saying something. Less active than other rabbits, less destructive than more hyper breeds, more cuddly and chill than many breed. There is something really special about them.

-English/German/Giant angoras. Great personalities. I do not recommend them for most people though due to the high maintenance of their coats. You at least have to be willing to shear it all off when it starts growing out or do a lot of brushing. Many get turned in to shelters for this reason. It is also a good idea to feed this breed something like papaya in moderation as they are more prone to wool block than breeds with a more natural coat.

-Rexes. Soft, and tame down well.

Like someone said, don't be afraid to handle them. You'll read a ton of things on the Net that say, "don't pick up your rabbit. It will learn to hate you if you try to pick it up". In my experience, the more you handle them, the tamer they are. I've seen people with house rabbits they don't pick up, and their rabbits tend to be skitterish and nippy. Learning proper handling techniques is vital to prevent injury and to make the process nicer for you both.

I'd pretty much just be repeating what people said about diet. Just adding in that obesity is especially bad for rabbits. I had an adopted rabbit who was so obese he had fat rolls (you should be able to feel the ribs easily on rabbits), and he keeled over dead after four days from what appeared to be a heart attack. This was not even a highly stressed rabbit. He was binkying and nudging people to be pet. I see a ton of pet rabbits who are overweight.
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This is often due to feeding too many pellets.
 

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