I'm looking for flaws in our plan.

"I always complicate things though." That is so me!

Ok, there's so much here and I'm trying to wrap my head around it. It sounds like a really doable plan. I hadn't even considered selling to offset the costs, but my husband would like that idea. So, maybe down the road we can do something like you're doing.

One thing I'm missing though, what kind of birds are you raising? Correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm getting that the eggs come from your own girls, right? You mentioned the sizes of heritage birds and the size of crosses, but I understand that crosses are not reliable egg layers/breeders.

Also, do you have separate layers for eating eggs or do you just keep some of the possible fertilized eggs for eating? I'm trying to figure out how that is done with trying to raise your own meat birds from "scratch". I know it shouldn't but the thoughts of eating a fertilized but "unincubated" egg weirds me out.

We're raising Marans, Bresse and my projects. The hybrids have been really good layers and I'm working on getting bigger size to them. I used Legbars to get the blue egg gene in there but they're a smaller bird. Where did you hear that crosses aren't reliable? From a breeding perspective, you have to carefully use them and breed towards goals, just letting a mixed flock breed without a plan will end up with inconsistencies and "barn yard mixes" that will not replicate themselves. With a tight line breeding plan with specific genes involved, the desired traits bred again and the undesirable ones culled, each generation gets more predictable and consistent, by 5/6 generations in they should "breed true" to reflect their parents. It's tricky to make a new variety but that's how new types come about. They'll be as reliable/consistent as they're bred to be.

You can have a layer flock separate, we don't though. All eggs are fair game for the table, all extra boys are table bound unless I get a really nice one for his variety that I don't need for a breeding pen. Then he is matched up with decent girls and sold as breeding stock. There is a tiny difference in the shape of the dot on the yolk between fertilized and unfertilized, you won't even notice it if you don't look for it.

This guy is a Hybrid. I'm working on structure/type with color as a bonus. He's 25% Twentse, 25% Legbar, 50% Marans. His structure/shape came from his hybrid dad, his depth/width came from the Marans.
dibs5.jpg

I look at the width between the legs, how the chest is made (looking for fullness) and in this case I was also aiming for a winter proof comb and neat egg colors. Last winter the roosters with big single combs lost their comb points to frostbite. This guy won't have that problem.

This is his dad, the Twentse breed structure carries through and it will compliment the next outcross to the Bresse for meatiness. So long as I ONLY retain the ones who inherit the heavier type.

oc4.jpg


The next part of this project will incorporate the Bresse...

br3e.jpg


This is a "dressed" Marans at 7 months old.
marans12.jpg


This is a 6 month old Marans, his body type fills out a baking pan. It's the width/depth of the bird that matters. Coincidentally, SOP for breed standards calls for that width/depth in dual purpose breeds. Dual purpose birds bred to standard should produce table sized birds, versus the leaner hatchery type structure bred for efficient laying. Sometimes the hatchery birds will get some size but they're also prone to being on the leaner side.
sbm4.jpg


These are scrawny 16 week old Bresse, 3 lbs each. Since we're aiming for larger size and always on the hunt for the next big rooster, the small ones come to dinner first.

bressed.jpg


I just hatched a batch of blue egg laying Hybrids, the Twentse/Legbar project. Those girls will go with the Black Silver rooster who should in theory throw a brown or olive-ish egg color... perhaps creating an Olive Egger next year. I'll have to wait a year to find out. Hahaha The biggest stay, so that over time they develop a table type.

We'll always have the Marans and the Bresse as purebred but I've been having a fun time working with these hybrids too.

These are some of the boys in rooster coop, they're not going to be breeding stock but they look neat and most of them are going to fill out nicely. This batch is mostly Olive Eggers with some pure Marans. Might keep that guy on the right as a spare, he has some size and my favorite comb type. They're between 12-14 weeks.
coc5.jpg


I used to buy new chickens every year, sometimes it worked out and sometimes I was really disappointed. I used to ship eggs in from all over the country. Again, win some, lose some. I started to see the differences between bloodlines within the same breed, or the inconsistencies within mixing lines of the same breed... started learning more about breeding.

Try different breeds until you find the ones you like.

I've had Black Copper Marans twice now, neither line I tried suited the table well so I'll have try a 3rd bloodline. They just didn't stack up well against the B/B/S line I already have.

If my barn was bigger I'd like to try some nice Dorkings, that's one variety I haven't been able to get a hold of yet.
 
Not to go off thread, but how do you think Dominique are for broodys? It is the breed I am cultivating for that and being dual-purpose.
My one little Dominique is just that, very little. I think it may just be her, but she really is the smallest heritage breed hen I have. My 14 week old pullets are the size of her. And, she has never gone broody. She is too busy following my every step, afraid of missing out. She is definitely my side-kick chicken. When I’m outside she is always under foot. That gets aggravating at times, but at other times she’s right there to catch a flushed out frog or mouse. No snakes yet! Thank the Lord.
 
People have been eating fertilized eggs ever since people have been eating eggs. It doesn't hurt them at all. As long as the eggs are not stored warm enough to develop, they won't develop. I don't think that is your issue, I think you believe you will feel like a cannibal if you eat a fertilized egg. I can't help you with that mind-set, there are others on here that have that. Sometimes all the logic in the world can't overcome our emotions. It's a personal decision.

I also want to counter the thought that crosses don't produce as well as purebred birds. Often they produce better. You often get a boost from hybrid vigor, even if you cross two different strains of the same breed that have become somewhat inbred. Crossing different breeds can certainly give you that boost. But the key is selecting breeding birds that that have the characteristics you want to boost. If you select your breeding birds with traits that you don't want you can boost those traits. Blindly crossing breeds isn't likely to help you, unless you are lucky. But carefully selecting breeding birds that have the traits you want will result in offspring that have the traits you want whether different breeds, crosses, or the same breed.

Some hen of any breed will never go broody. Some hens of any breed will sometimes go broody. Some breeds tend to go broody more than others, often a lot more, but you do not get a guarantee with any specific hen. If you breed your own and have a hen that goes broody, you can hatch her eggs and keep some replacements from her eggs. I once hatched a male from a hen that went broody's eggs and kept him. A lot of his daughters went broody. Those genetics are passed down through the males as well as females. I actually wound up with a mixed breed flock where too many of the hens went broody too often by hatching eggs from hens that went broody and saving replacements. My broody buster stayed full and my egg production suffered, I overdid it.
 
We're raising Marans, Bresse and my projects. The hybrids have been really good layers and I'm working on getting bigger size to them. I used Legbars to get the blue egg gene in there but they're a smaller bird. Where did you hear that crosses aren't reliable? From a breeding perspective, you have to carefully use them and breed towards goals, just letting a mixed flock breed without a plan will end up with inconsistencies and "barn yard mixes" that will not replicate themselves. With a tight line breeding plan with specific genes involved, the desired traits bred again and the undesirable ones culled, each generation gets more predictable and consistent, by 5/6 generations in they should "breed true" to reflect their parents. It's tricky to make a new variety but that's how new types come about. They'll be as reliable/consistent as they're bred to be.

You can have a layer flock separate, we don't though. All eggs are fair game for the table, all extra boys are table bound unless I get a really nice one for his variety that I don't need for a breeding pen. Then he is matched up with decent girls and sold as breeding stock. There is a tiny difference in the shape of the dot on the yolk between fertilized and unfertilized, you won't even notice it if you don't look for it.

This guy is a Hybrid. I'm working on structure/type with color as a bonus. He's 25% Twentse, 25% Legbar, 50% Marans. His structure/shape came from his hybrid dad, his depth/width came from the Marans.View attachment 1849450
I look at the width between the legs, how the chest is made (looking for fullness) and in this case I was also aiming for a winter proof comb and neat egg colors. Last winter the roosters with big single combs lost their comb points to frostbite. This guy won't have that problem.

This is his dad, the Twentse breed structure carries through and it will compliment the next outcross to the Bresse for meatiness. So long as I ONLY retain the ones who inherit the heavier type.

View attachment 1849452

The next part of this project will incorporate the Bresse...

View attachment 1849453

This is a "dressed" Marans at 7 months old.
View attachment 1849454

This is a 6 month old Marans, his body type fills out a baking pan. It's the width/depth of the bird that matters. Coincidentally, SOP for breed standards calls for that width/depth in dual purpose breeds. Dual purpose birds bred to standard should produce table sized birds, versus the leaner hatchery type structure bred for efficient laying. Sometimes the hatchery birds will get some size but they're also prone to being on the leaner side.View attachment 1849456

These are scrawny 16 week old Bresse, 3 lbs each. Since we're aiming for larger size and always on the hunt for the next big rooster, the small ones come to dinner first.

View attachment 1849458

I just hatched a batch of blue egg laying Hybrids, the Twentse/Legbar project. Those girls will go with the Black Silver rooster who should in theory throw a brown or olive-ish egg color... perhaps creating an Olive Egger next year. I'll have to wait a year to find out. Hahaha The biggest stay, so that over time they develop a table type.

We'll always have the Marans and the Bresse as purebred but I've been having a fun time working with these hybrids too.

These are some of the boys in rooster coop, they're not going to be breeding stock but they look neat and most of them are going to fill out nicely. This batch is mostly Olive Eggers with some pure Marans. Might keep that guy on the right as a spare, he has some size and my favorite comb type. They're between 12-14 weeks. View attachment 1849471

I used to buy new chickens every year, sometimes it worked out and sometimes I was really disappointed. I used to ship eggs in from all over the country. Again, win some, lose some. I started to see the differences between bloodlines within the same breed, or the inconsistencies within mixing lines of the same breed... started learning more about breeding.

Try different breeds until you find the ones you like.

I've had Black Copper Marans twice now, neither line I tried suited the table well so I'll have try a 3rd bloodline. They just didn't stack up well against the B/B/S line I already have.

If my barn was bigger I'd like to try some nice Dorkings, that's one variety I haven't been able to get a hold of yet.
This is excellent info and along with pictures makes it so much more understandable. For me anyway.
 
People have been eating fertilized eggs ever since people have been eating eggs. It doesn't hurt them at all. As long as the eggs are not stored warm enough to develop, they won't develop. I don't think that is your issue, I think you believe you will feel like a cannibal if you eat a fertilized egg. I can't help you with that mind-set, there are others on here that have that. Sometimes all the logic in the world can't overcome our emotions. It's a personal decision.

I also want to counter the thought that crosses don't produce as well as purebred birds. Often they produce better. You often get a boost from hybrid vigor, even if you cross two different strains of the same breed that have become somewhat inbred. Crossing different breeds can certainly give you that boost. But the key is selecting breeding birds that that have the characteristics you want to boost. If you select your breeding birds with traits that you don't want you can boost those traits. Blindly crossing breeds isn't likely to help you, unless you are lucky. But carefully selecting breeding birds that have the traits you want will result in offspring that have the traits you want whether different breeds, crosses, or the same breed.

Some hen of any breed will never go broody. Some hens of any breed will sometimes go broody. Some breeds tend to go broody more than others, often a lot more, but you do not get a guarantee with any specific hen. If you breed your own and have a hen that goes broody, you can hatch her eggs and keep some replacements from her eggs. I once hatched a male from a hen that went broody's eggs and kept him. A lot of his daughters went broody. Those genetics are passed down through the males as well as females. I actually wound up with a mixed breed flock where too many of the hens went broody too often by hatching eggs from hens that went broody and saving replacements. My broody buster stayed full and my egg production suffered, I overdid it.
I have learned more from accidentally reading this thread than I have when looking for info. Thank you so much.
 
Not to go off thread, but how do you think Dominique are for broodys? It is the breed I am cultivating for that and being dual-purpose.

I am unfamiliar with that breed. There are many sources (Storey for one) of average broody likelyness. I gave mine away, so I cannot reference it for you.
 
Mandelyn, I’m sorry, I wasn’t clear, I was referring to Cornish Rock Crosses as not being reliable breeders.
You have done a remarkable job in your breeding program. You certainly have some beautiful birds and your effort shows.
How do you like the Bresse? Do they live up to the hype as flavorful birds, even the small ones you had?
It’s late and I’m having a weekend with the grand babies so I need to come back when I have the brain power to try to digest this thread. I am very appreciative for the shared experiences and wisdom!
 

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