INCUBATING w/FRIENDS! w/Sally Sunshine Shipped Eggs No problem!

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Sally Sunshine said:
[COLOR=008080]INCUBATING w/FRIENDS![/COLOR]​
[COLOR=000000]A place to Hatch, Learn, Chat,[/COLOR]​
[COLOR=000000]& Meet new Friends![/COLOR]​
When I came back to BYC after an illness I wasnt quite sure where to go, I wasnt sure where all my friends were hanging out or even where to look for everyone! It was then I decided to start the Halloween hatchalong. It was a very fun time! I found quite a few of my friends, but certainly not all of them! As the Halloween HAL closed I wanted a place for everyone to go to continue to get the support they need and for the friends to keep gathering. FEEL FREE to Invite anyone you wish, even if they just want to learn about incubation chat and support each other.​
So Welcome to our thread,​
The thread of FRIENDS!​
[COLOR=800080]WE SERIOUSLY INVITE SEASONED HATCHERS[/COLOR]​
[COLOR=800080]TO HELP OUT NEW HATCHERS, PLEASE PLEASE JOIN US,[/COLOR]​
[COLOR=800080]whether you are incubating at this time or not.[/COLOR]​
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LL
[COLOR=000000]A few of MY own BYC Articles & Threads...[/COLOR]​
[COLOR=FF0000]PS.... I am currently on the thread listed below....[/COLOR]​
don't be afraid to join us for your hatch, or to learn or start a bator build!​
I WISH I HAD THAT OPPORTUNITY! dont hesitate to pop on the thread and ask for help....​
[COLOR=FF0000]UPDATE: [/COLOR] [COLOR=000000]I have pulled extremely helpful NOTES, LINKS & Informational[/COLOR] [COLOR=000000]Post Links from the incubation thread for EVERYONE'S convenience and will continue to put them HERE: [/COLOR] https://www.backyardchickens.com/a/incubating-w-friends-helpful-notes-links-informational-post-links







[COLOR=000000]Incubation Notes, Images, Videos & Links[/COLOR]​

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[COLOR=000000]Including SHIPPED EGGS INCUBATION Techniques.[/COLOR]​
BYC Member VIP Interview - Sally Sunshine​

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[COLOR=000000]Expected Hatch Rate[/COLOR]​
Don’t count your chickens before they are hatched, or even after for that matter!​
Shipped eggs have a MUCH lower hatch rate.​
The percent hatchability in the commercial poultry industry ranges from 78-88%.​

[COLOR=000000]SHIPPED EGGS[/COLOR]​

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[COLOR=FF0000]Shipped Eggs = Change Of Plans![/COLOR] post #53845​
[COLOR=FF0000]REQUEST HOW YOU WANT YOUR eggs SHIPPED PEOPLE!!!! [/COLOR]​
[COLOR=FF0000]HOW TO REQUEST AND SHIP EGGS Sally Sunshine Way...[/COLOR]​
[COLOR=008080]COLD? REQUESTING HEAT PACKS discussion[/COLOR] post #32219​
[COLOR=008080]Heat packs for shipping animals/etc[/COLOR] http://www.tsksupply.com/categories/Heat-Packs/​
Percent Fertility is the percentage of fertile eggs of all eggs set. % Fertility = # of fertile eggs # of total eggs set Percent Hatchability is the percentage of fertile eggs which actually hatched out as live young. % Hatchability = # of eggs which hatch out # of fertile eggs http://pubs.ext.vt.edu/2902/2902-1090/2902-1090_pdf.pdf
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[COLOR=000000]Choosing an incubator[/COLOR]​

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Many different styles of incubators are available, most common are Styrofoam types found at most feed stores. These incubators hold more eggs and are usually less expensive, but they require more involvement in the hatching process. Egg turners are usually optional that can be added for convenience. There are also some great “hands free” incubators, commercial incubators as well as Simple Inexpensive Homemade Incubators. We make “Coolerbators” they work 100% better than our store bought incubator because it has less than .5 degree variance and we have very successful hatches in it!​
Coolerbator & DIY Instructions… CLICK HERE​
[COLOR=0000FF] [/COLOR] [COLOR=000000]CABINET COOLER INCUBATOR & DIY Instructions[/COLOR] [COLOR=000000]CLICK HERE[/COLOR]​
[COLOR=3B5998][COLOR=0000FF] [/COLOR] [/COLOR]​
LL
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[COLOR=000000]HELP How do I decide on an incubator?[/COLOR]​

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[COLOR=FF0000]Still air or forced air incubator?[/COLOR] There are 2 main types of incubator. Still air and forced air. The difference is simply a fan. In forced air incubators, a fan circulates the air around the incubator which keeps the temperature constant in all parts of the incubator. The temperature can be measured anywhere within the airflow. In a still air incubator, there is no fan, the heat stratifies (forms layers) inside the incubator so the temperature is different between the top and bottom of the incubator.​
IMPORTANCE OF FANS and HOW TO ADD ONE! post #58100 ​
[COLOR=008080]Poultry Keeper Choosing the Right Incubator[/COLOR]​
[COLOR=008080]Incubator warehouse.com Egg Incubator Buyers Guide[/COLOR]​
INCUBATORS

CHOOSING an INCUBATOR & SUGGESTIONS post #1901
Incubator Accessories & PARTS c lick HERE or item below...
Adding Fans and Thermostats

IMPORTANCE OF FANS and HOW TO ADD ONE! post #58100
[COLOR=008080]6" 240 cfm DUCT FAN for cabinets[/COLOR] all sizes click HERE
THERMOSTATS/TEMP CONTROLLERS: * Also see Incubator Accessories and Parts Above
  • Temperature Controller Thermostat Control Switch Unit 1 Relay Output with Sensor CLICK HERE
  • STC-1000 Digital Temp.Controller w/Sensor AC110V Install/Wiring Diagrams post #63789
  • How a wafer Thermostat Works Click HERE & HERE
  • Hot water heater Thermostats, Must get drilled Watch Video HERE & See CoolerBATOR
HEATING ELEMENTS: * Also see Incubator Accessories and Parts Above
  • Aluminum PTC Heating Element Thermostat Heater Plate [COLOR=008080]s Click HERE [COLOR=008080] & Ceramic Thermostatics Click HERE[/COLOR][/COLOR]
  • Incubator incubator heat elements Click HERE
Homemade DIY Incubators

BYC MEMBERS Homemade Incubators CLICK HERE
CABINET COOLER INCUBATOR
CoolerBATOR
RUSH LANE~ MUST SEE B4 DIY https://www.youtube.com/user/RushLanePoultry
Links to 'bator building! post #4423
WINE COOLER DIY:
CABINET DIY:
Cooler DIY Incubators & Box Bators:
HOW TO SEAL a BATOR Click HERE
HOW Many VENT HOLES do I NEED? post #24735
DIY WAFER thermostat with ASSEMBLY Click HERE
[COLOR=008080]Aquarium Cheap light to see in Bators[/COLOR] post #68412
DIY Turners & Egg Trays & Hatching Baskets Mics

How to put a turner back together post #63577
Bennys Awesome MANUAL horizontal EGG TURNER post #64262
Easy manual egg carton pvs turners click HERE and another in HERE
https://www.backyardchickens.com/t/9302/semi-automatic-egg-turner
https://www.backyardchickens.com/a/bens-hens-diy-incubator
https://www.backyardchickens.com/t/9302/semi-automatic-egg-turner/10#post_67770
https://www.backyardchickens.com/t/968827/my-diy-automatic-egg-turner
Homemade automatic or manual HORIZONTAL egg turner CLICK HERE
[COLOR=008080]Horizontal DIY Turner[/COLOR] post #64675 [COLOR=008080]DIY Quail Turner[/COLOR] post #64682
Sallys manual cabinet turner with trays post #32186
Manual PVC turner for incubator HERE
Hatching baskets Egg Trays and sizes/depths post #64634
DIY Egg Tray Hatching Baskets out of Hardware Cloth post #64620
CHEAP EGG TRAYS click here and HERE
Egg trays, also look at Cutler Supply and Hawkhead Hatchery Equipment
GFQ Turner Supplemental Maintenance Manual with detailed images PDF CLICK HERE
Rotisserie motor considered using with a timer chkncanoe CLICK HERE
Rotisserie Motor - NEW MODEL 6RPM Click HERE
Replacement Egg Turner Motor for Little Giant, HovaBator, and Farm Innovators Click HERE
[COLOR=FF0000]LOCATION OF INCUBATOR[/COLOR]​
Locate your incubator in a room in which temperature is 70 degrees, free from drafts,​
away from windows and direct sunlight.​
[COLOR=008080]Did you know that the Incubating practice originated more than 2,500 years ago in Egypt and China. Methods of incubation were kept secret for a long time. In Europe attempts to use incubation are known from the 14th century. Owing to the imperfection of incubation apparatus (casks submerged in rotted manure, bakers’ ovens, and so on) and inadequate study of the conditions of incubation, it did not become common. Only since the end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th century, with the invention of better incubators, has incubation become widely used in Europe and the USA; since the middle of the 20th century it has been the principal method of propagating poultry.[/COLOR]​
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[COLOR=FF0000]Collection, WASHING & Storage of Eggs[/COLOR]​

[COLOR=FF0000]Collection, Washing & Storage of Eggs[/COLOR]​
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[COLOR=333333]Choose eggs that are of good size, not abnormally big or small. Do NOT set dirty, cracked, or porous eggs. [/COLOR]​
[COLOR=333333]Clinical studies at the University of Arkansas have shown that if your going to set a dirty egg, set the dirty egg, [COLOR=FF0000]DO NOT SAND, WASH OR WIPE dirty eggs as hatchability decreases with these practices![/COLOR][/COLOR]​
[COLOR=333333][COLOR=808080]Cuticula is the thin membrane that covers the whole eggshell that is made from the sticky fluid when laid which covers it and quickly dissolves due to carbondioxyde activity. [/COLOR][/COLOR]​
[COLOR=333333][COLOR=808080]This membrane can be penetrated by gasses but functions as a kind defensive mechanism to prevent the entry of bacteria.[/COLOR][/COLOR]​
[COLOR=333333][COLOR=000000] The washing and rubbing action also serves to force disease organisms through the pores of the shell. [/COLOR]Place the eggs upright in an egg carton with the FAT, air cell end of the egg UP! Allow eggs to sit in a moderately cool, somewhat humid place for storage. Basements are great. Moderately cool means 55-65 degrees. Rotate your eggs a 3 times a day to keep the embryo from sticking. An easy way to turn all of the eggs at once is to place a thick book under one end of the carton, and later remove the book and put it under the other end of the carton, 3 times a day. Before adding eggs to the incubator always WARM eggs UP slowly to room temperature. IF THE EGGS ARE COLD Condensation can cause bacterial growth on the eggs! You can collect eggs up until 10 days or so, but after the 7[SUP]th[/SUP] day lower hatch rates may result. [/COLOR]​
[COLOR=333333]Stored eggs take longer to hatch (about one hour per day of storage).[/COLOR]​
[COLOR=333333]It is important to ALWAYS wash your hands before handling your hatching eggs![/COLOR]​
[COLOR=333333]Omphalitis, yolk sack infection is caused by a bacterium that enters through the porous egg shell and easily kills embryo's and newly hatched chicks. Unfortunately, incubation conditions are ideal for breeding bacteria as well as incubating eggs. For more information on storing eggs refer to Recommendations for hatching egg handling and storage[/COLOR]​
[COLOR=333333]
LL
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[COLOR=FF0000]If you MUST store longer please see this info HERE:[/COLOR]​

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CONCLUSIONS: ​
When eggs were stored in the [COLOR=FF0000]small-end-up position for 2 to 4 weeks, it was, not beneficial to turn them daily as had been previously demonstrated to be advantageous for eggs stored small-end-down.[/COLOR]​

[COLOR=000000]PLASTIC BAG EGG STORAGE!!![/COLOR] [COLOR=626262] [COLOR=005CB1]http://journals.cambridge.org/action/displayAbstract?fromPage=online&aid=618820[/COLOR][/COLOR]
[COLOR=626262]Temporary heating before incubation and enclosing eggs in plastic bags during storage improves hatchability, especially when storage is prolonged. A high humidity during storage also improves hatchability, probably due to a reduction in water loss. The changes in albumen pH during storage are discussed in so far as they provide a possible explanation for relationships between environmental conditions during storage and hatching results.[/COLOR]
TIPS:​
Use your turners during storage!​
LL

SANITIZING/WASHING EGGS​

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Most commercial hatcheries sanitize their eggs. There are differences of opinions about how to sanitize eggs, if you feel they need to be. Some experts advocate washing and even lightly scrubbing eggs with soft brushes. Others feel that the most that should be done is dipping for a few seconds. Because of the varying opinions on sanitizing eggs, the following is an opinion of Brower and not necessarily a hard and fast recommendation. Accomplish sanitizing by dipping eggs in solution containing disinfectant that is just strong enough to kill bacteria and viruses. However, the disinfectant should not be so strong as to damage the embryos.​
Mix the sanitizing solution according to the manufacturers' instruction. A recommended cleaning solution is Tex-Trol. TexTrol may be available at a local retail outlet. For the name of a retailer search for it online. If using Tex-Trol, mix one half ounce of concentrated disinfectant to one gallon of warm water. You can also use 1 ounce of Clorox to 2 gallons of water. The water should be 100 to 110 degrees Fahrenheit (37° to 44°C). If the egg is warmer than the solution, contamination can be pulled through the pores of the egg before the agent has a chance to neutralize any pathogens.. Submerge the eggs for one to three minutes with dirtier eggs left in solution longer than ones that essentially look clean. Allow the eggs to air dry at room temperature and store as described above--or set in your incubator. A soft paper tissue can be used to dry the eggs but don’t rub the egg with a tissue or any material. Eggs have a natural protective cuticle that helps retard contamination. Rubbing removes the cuticle and can actually drive pathogens through the shell.​
Source:​
(1 Tablespoon = 3 Teaspoons per gal )​
Sanitizing solution of chlorine (bleach) 6% hypochlorite and water at a concentration of 100 ppm (parts per million) = To make a100 ppm chlorine solution, combine 2 ml. (1/2 tsp.) of bleach with one quart of water.​
images
1zdprty.jpg
The Cuticle removal​
in hatching eggs as a means to reduce weight loss: Has actually been found to increase embryo weight during incubation and has direct relationship between rate of egg water loss, embryonic metabolism, and growth during incubation. But that warning of contamination is there if you dont follow cleaning procedures correctly. Chlorine treated eggs were not altered either. So with all that it is found that cuticle removal can be an effective method for increasing growth and egg weight loss.​

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'Sweating' of eggs refers to the phenomenon of condensed water sitting on the egg shell surface. This occurs when cold eggs are suddenly exposed to a higher environmental temperature. The warm air with a certain moisture content cools down rapidly directly around the colder eggs. Since cold air contains less water than warm air, relative humidity will increase until the air is saturated. And at that moment, condensation will take place on the cool egg surface.​
[COLOR=FF0000]Prior to EGG placement in the incubator,[/COLOR]​
[COLOR=FF0000]place the eggs at a room temperature for several hours.[/COLOR]​
Digital Egg Scale - Accurate Humidity Measurement and Egg Sizing HERE
ZONES OF COLD INJURY fro EMBRYONIC DEVELOPMENT post #36213
EGG Quality https://www.alltech.com/sites/default/files/alltech-egg-shell-quality-poster.pdf
PULLET EGGS??? post #41984 UNDER CONSTRUCTION
DOUBLE YOLKERS NOT suggested but they can hatch with assistance post #46649

Is it Fertile or Infertile?​

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To check the fertility, simply break an egg in a bowl.​
Find the white spot on the yolk. If you do not, use a spoon to gently flip the yolk over until you find it.​
Bulls eye look is fertile.​
BOTH of these below ARE FERTILE!!​
Fertility:

07-04Gallus5.gif
Example 57 out of 126 were declared fertile.
07-04Gallus6.gif

[COLOR=000000]Hatch Rates...[/COLOR]

07-04Gallus7.gif
Example 50 of the 57 fertile eggs hatched the % hatch=
07-04Gallus8.gif
[COLOR=FF0000]Clears at CANDLE are not always infertile![/COLOR]​
[COLOR=000000]PURCHASING EGGS[/COLOR]

[COLOR=FF0000]HOW TO REQUEST AND SHIP EGGS Sally Sunshine Way [/COLOR] HOWTOREQUESTANDSHIPEGGSSallySunshineWay.docx 940k .docx file [COLOR=008080]Results Shipped SS Way[/COLOR] post #63575 [COLOR=008080]cree[/COLOR] post #6321 [COLOR=FF0000]REQUEST HOW YOU WANT YOUR eggs SHIPPED PEOPLE!!!! [/COLOR] post #4964 [COLOR=008080]Kristins horribly shipped eggs and hatch[/COLOR] post #57321 [COLOR=008080]DO you have to be NPIP certified to ship hatching eggs? States/Agencies Info see[/COLOR] post #33884 [COLOR=008080]Great IDEAS to find eggs CHEAP! [/COLOR] post #775 [COLOR=008080]Julian date on trader Joe eggs understanding it![/COLOR] http://www.fs.fed.us/fire/partners/fepp/julian-calendar.pdf post #5098 [COLOR=008080]BYC Links for EGGS[/COLOR]........ [COLOR=008080]LOCAL BYC THREADS in the Where am I? Where are you Section![/COLOR] click HERE [COLOR=B22222][COLOR=008080]HATCHING EGGS FOR SALE/TRADE BYC[/COLOR] [/COLOR]https://www.backyardchickens.com/f/36/chicken-hatching-eggs

BIO SECURITY! ​

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Risks associated with hatching eggs of chickens​
[COLOR=FF0000]Record Keeping[/COLOR]​
Accurate and detailed records are very important in incubation.​
In addition to records of individual eggs it is important to keep records of the temperature and the humidity, so that trends in temperature and humidity may be detected early and can be corrected for next hatch.​
[ATTACHMENT=362]Egg Details (19k. xls file)[/ATTACHMENT] [ATTACHMENT=363]Incubating Chart (22k. xls file)[/ATTACHMENT] [ATTACHMENT=914]unprotectedfieldscanbeeditedwithCAUTIONforfunctions.xls (306k. xls file)[/ATTACHMENT]
[COLOR=B42000] [/COLOR]​
[COLOR=333333]Here is a spreadsheet for the intense OCD hatcher there is a sample page and a workbook page[/COLOR] [COLOR=333333] ozexpatbychatchtemplate.xlsx 20k .xlsx file[/COLOR]
[COLOR=000000]INCUBATION RECORDS, SOFTWARE/APPS[/COLOR]

Egg Details 19k .xls file Incubating Chart 22k .xls file unprotectedfieldscanbeeditedwithCAUTIONforfunctions.xls 306k .xls file [COLOR=008080]Hatch / Egg Turning Chart[/COLOR][COLOR=FF0000] [/COLOR] [COLOR=008080]click HERE:[/COLOR][COLOR=FF0000] [/COLOR] Hatch Chart Schedule [COLOR=008080]Setting Chicken Eggs by the Moon's Sign farmers Almanac[/COLOR] see HERE [COLOR=008080]Hatchabatch AP Keeping track of your hatch! see here[/COLOR] [COLOR=008080]Printable Month Calendar[/COLOR]This app can be used to generate a planning calendar for a selected month and year. Click HERE
[COLOR=000000]SPREADSHEETS, APPS & DOWNLOADS[/COLOR]

[COLOR=008080]FIVE Apps To Make You A Better Chicken Keeper ARTICLE CLICK HERE[/COLOR] [COLOR=008080]FREE Homesteading, Farm & Animal Recording Keeping Forms [/COLOR] https://homesteadapps.com/app/free/forms/ Monthly Poultry Record Sheet Form record daily feed rations, bedding, eggs, and other information for poultry
[COLOR=000000]Spreadsheets/online places[/COLOR]

http://www.eggzy.net/ http://homesteadapps.com/app/ https://2013.spaceappschallenge.org/challenge/backyard-poultry-farmer/ https://scratchcradle.wordpress.com/2012/03/01/free-download-egg-spreadsheet/ http://www.instructables.com/id/Chicken-Egg-Calendar/
[COLOR=000000]CELL APPS[/COLOR]

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.rmcore.Eggspense https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/flockplenty-chicken-egg-tracker/id1017524534?mt=8 https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/count-your-eggs/id957518668?mt=8 https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/count-your-eggs/id957518668?mt=8
Incubation Chart​
The following table lists incubation requirements for various species of fowl.​
[TR]
Species​
Incub. Period (days)​
Temp (F.)¹​
Do not turn after​
[/TR] [TR] [TD]
Chicken​
[/TD] [TD]
21​
[/TD] [TD]
100​
[/TD] [TD]
18th day​
[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]
Turkey​
[/TD] [TD]
28​
[/TD] [TD]
99​
[/TD] [TD]
25th day​
[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]
Duck​
[/TD] [TD]
28​
[/TD] [TD]
100​
[/TD] [TD]
25th day​
[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]
Muscovy Duck​
[/TD] [TD]
35-37​
[/TD] [TD]
100​
[/TD] [TD]
31st day​
[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]
Goose​
[/TD] [TD]
28-34​
[/TD] [TD]
99​
[/TD] [TD]
25th day​
[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]
Guinea Fowl​
[/TD] [TD]
26-28​
[/TD] [TD]
100​
[/TD] [TD]
25th day​
[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]
Pheasant​
[/TD] [TD]
23-28​
[/TD] [TD]
100​
[/TD] [TD]
21st day​
[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]
Peafowl​
[/TD] [TD]
28-30​
[/TD] [TD]
99​
[/TD] [TD]
25th day​
[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]
Bobwhite Quail​
[/TD] [TD]
23-24​
[/TD] [TD]
100​
[/TD] [TD]
20th day​
[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]
Coturnix Quail​
[/TD] [TD]
17​
[/TD] [TD]
100​
[/TD] [TD]
15th day​
[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]
Chukar​
[/TD] [TD]
23-24​
[/TD] [TD]
100​
[/TD] [TD]
20th day​
[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]
Grouse​
[/TD] [TD]
25​
[/TD] [TD]
100​
[/TD] [TD]
22nd day​
[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]
Pigeon​
[/TD] [TD]
17​
[/TD] [TD]
100​
[/TD] [TD]
15th day​
[/TD] [/TR]

¹ Measured at degrees F. in a forced-air incubator. For still-air incubators, add 2-3 degrees F. ² Measured as degrees F. using a wet-bulb thermometer. Use chart to convert to relative humidity.​
[COLOR=B42000][COLOR=0000FF]http://www.porterturkeys.com/egghatchingtips.htm[/COLOR] (Turkey)[/COLOR]
[COLOR=0000FF]https://www.backyardchickens.com/a/turkey-incubation-and-hatching-guidehttps://www.backyardchickens.com/a/turkey-incubation-and-hatching-guide[COLOR=0000FF] (yinepu's Turkey)[/COLOR][/COLOR]
HATCHING EMU click HERE

[COLOR=000000]Areas of MOST IMPORTANCE in Hatching EGGS[/COLOR]​

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[COLOR=FF0000]Ventilation (Oxygen),[/COLOR] [COLOR=FF0000]Temperature,[/COLOR] [COLOR=FF0000]Humidity,[/COLOR] [COLOR=FF0000]Egg Turning/Positioning[/COLOR]​
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[COLOR=FF0000]VENTILATION (OXYGEN)[/COLOR]​
Ventilation is VERY important during the incubation process.​
While the embryo is developing, oxygen enters the egg through the shell and carbon dioxide escapes. Oxygen requirements will increases during development and during hatching. Unobstructed ventilation holes, both above and below the eggs, are essential for proper air exchange.[COLOR=FF0000]REMOVE RED VENT PLUGS, TOO MANY PEOPLE FORGET TO REMOVE THEM AT DAY 10! [/COLOR] [COLOR=003366]NOTE: When Lockdown occurs, vent openings are frequently restricted in an attempt to boost incubator humidity. Instead of helping the chick hatch, the chick is suffocated from lack of oxygen. Never decrease ventilation openings at hatching in an attempt to increase humidity. Increase humidity by other methods. If any vent adjustments are made, they should be opened more. Try adding a dampened sponge or towel to help boost humidity during lockdown.[/COLOR]​
[COLOR=000000]VENTILATION (OXYGEN)[/COLOR]

[COLOR=FF0000]Hatching at High Altitudes[/COLOR] post #37908 O2 deprivation to day 10 of incubation followed by regular oxygen concentrations leads to stronger chicks post #33815 [COLOR=FF0000]NEVER USE VENT holes as a means to Control HUMIDITY especially during HATCH DAYS![/COLOR]
​
[COLOR=FF0000]TEMPERATURE[/COLOR]​
THERMOMETERS, HYGROMETERS & CALIBRATION

Celsius to Fahrenheit (ºC to ºF) conversion calculator click HERE
[COLOR=FF0000]Thermo/hygro suggestions [/COLOR] post #13998

Brinsea Incubator Thermometers click HERE
Strombergs Thermometers click HERE Hygrometers click HERE Digital Thermo/Hygros click Here
Hova-Bator GQF Incubator Thermometer / Hygrometer (Wet Bulb) 3018 post #32892
HEAT SINKS/ Stones/Pebbles ADD THEM TO STYRO! post #43903
[COLOR=CC6600]Calibration is a MUST: HOW TO CALIBRATE post #9068 [/COLOR]


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Researchers have found that lowering temperatures will prolong incubation, HOWEVER it is favorable to do so at the end of incubation. ​

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[COLOR=FF0000]Day 19 & 20 Temp Min 98.0 Max 98.5[/COLOR]​

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[COLOR=FF0000]Day 21 Temp Min 97 Max 98.0[/COLOR]​

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for more information please refer here: PAGE 42​
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HAVE A PLAN IN CASE YOU LOOSE ELECTRIC ITS THE SEASON! see post #522 ​

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[COLOR=FF0000]HUMIDITY[/COLOR]​
[COLOR=FF0000]The Air Bubble in the Egg[/COLOR]​
The average chicken egg has thousands of pores running through the shell allowing the embryo to exchange oxygen, carbon dioxide. and water. Soon after an egg is laid, a small air bubble or “air cell” forms in the large end of the egg from this water loss. Humidity levels in the incubator determine moisture evaporation during the 21 days of incubation and hatching. The air cell is crucial for the chick to break out of the egg shell at the end of the incubation period. The chick can drown if the air cell is too small or the chick may be retarded in growth if the air cell is too large. This is why maintaining the proper humidity is crucial. [COLOR=FF0000]Slightly lower humidity levels are more likely to be less disastrous than slightly higher humidity levels.[/COLOR] There are quite a few opinions on Humidity, but it is no set number.​
images
Humidity is [COLOR=FF0000]NOT A SET NUMBER, you need it YES![/COLOR]​
However, you use it as a tool to "adjust" egg weight loss during incubation. [COLOR=FF0000]We candle on days 7,10,14,18 To WATCH WEIGHT LOSS IN EVERY EGG! [COLOR=FF0000] An EGG MUST[/COLOR] lose approximately 13-14% of its weight[/COLOR] during the incubation process. THIS IS YOUR GOAL!! You can monitor this by marking Air cells and also by weighing. Please refer to CANDLING section of this Article for more Air Cell info.​
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Size of air cell on day 7, 14, and 18 of incubation​
[COLOR=FF0000]WHY to MEASURE WEIGHT LOSS IN EGGS, [/COLOR]​

MEASURING PROCEDURES (HOW TO), HOW TO CALCULATE, and HOW to interpret RESULTS
[COLOR=005CB1]http://www.aviagen.com/assets/Tech_Center/BB_Resources_Tools/AA_How_Tos/AAHowto1WaterLossEN13.pdf[/COLOR]
I choose the easier method, keeping a close eye on air cell growth during incubation. You begin by ONLY adding a small amount of water and keep Humidity between 20%-30% and adjusting as you weigh or candle depending on moisture loss. IN SOME AREAS OF THE COUNTRY YOU MAY NOT NEED TO ADD ANY WATER! USE IT AS A TOOL FOR THE CORRECT WEIGHT LOSS IN THE EGG! So if your air cells look too large at each candle period you must add some humidity, too small air cell lower it, and if your weighing you adjust as needed. UNTIL DAY 18 LOCKDOWN,​
then stop turning and raise humidity to 65-70%​
UNDERSTANDING HUMIDITY​
Views of Day 18 Candle.....​
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[COLOR=FF0000]How Does a Hygrometer Work? [/COLOR]​
Shown here is a WET Bulb Hygrometer and wick​
Wet bulb is exactly what it states. It is the temperature relative of the humidity in degrees.​
A Hygrometer Wick is placed over the stem of the thermometer and the other end of the sleeve is placed in a jar or pan in the incubator.​
images
images
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[COLOR=333333]HOW TO CALIBRATE HYGRO with SALT TEST[/COLOR]​
[COLOR=000080]NOTES: It’s a good idea to keep the incubator plugged into a surge protector. Use distilled water in your incubator to help prevent bacteria growth. Omphalitis, Mushy Chick Disease and Yolk Sack Infection may be caused by a bacterium that enters through the porous egg shell. Unfortunately, incubation conditions are ideal for breeding bacteria as well as incubating eggs. Brinsea sells a disinfectant, formulated to be used for cleaning eggs, incubators, safe and effective against yeasts, fungi, viruses and bacteria which can cause fatal damage to the growing embryo. Pennies can be added to water wells. Copper helps to destroy the cell walls of bacteria, thus keeping bacteria out of the incubator. Pennies before 1982 have more copper content and pure copper kills 99.9% of bacteria.[/COLOR]​
A few TIPS & TRICKS!​
Below image is a Simple waterer/suctioner out of aquarium tubing placed through side of incubator and into water wells. Use a Kids medicine syringe to add/suck water without opening or disturbing eggs.​
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In the image below are the different sized cups I use the first 18 days of incubation INSTEAD of using the wells in the bottom of the incubator. I had a hard time getting humidity correct, so I started using different size containers and caps for water holding, I could easily remove & replace as necessary. It WORKS WELL and I can keep them clean and sanitized better and not disturb my eggs! I will remove these cups on day 18 so the chicks don’t drown in them​
and use the lower wells at lockdown at day 18.​
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2" funnel & we shoved it into a small piece of 1/4" tubing, a cleat on the inside of the unit (a wide-crown staple or cable staple would work also) to hold the tubing in place.​
This way you can add water to the middle of the bator without missing the water troughs and without opening the unit. see below (Thanks tlpounds)​
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REMEMBER~​
Surface area of water will increase humidity more so than depth!​
If you need a safe boost at lockdown just add a dampened sponge or rag.​
A "ShamWoW" is great as a wick and can hang from the sides or across top of incubator.​
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[COLOR=FF0000]Setting Eggs & Turning[/COLOR]​
It is important to ALWAYS wash your hands before handling your hatching eggs!​
It is likewise important to SANITIZE your incubator AND equipment before AND after use!​
Omphalitis, yolk sack infection is caused by a bacterium that enters through the porous egg shell and easily kills embryo's and newly hatched chicks. Unfortunately, incubation conditions are ideal for breeding bacteria as well as incubating eggs.​
[COLOR=FF0000]WHY IS EGG TURNING IMPORTANT EVEN WITH SHIPPED EGGS?[/COLOR]​

[COLOR=FF0000][COLOR=000000]REMINDER to see the Shipped eggs section of the article and to treat every shipped egg differently as its air cell is presented to you![/COLOR][/COLOR]​

[COLOR=FF0000]Failure to turn eggs during incubation CLEARLY[/COLOR]​

[COLOR=FF0000]reduces hatchability in every scholarly study and every clinical trial. [/COLOR]​

[COLOR=005CB1][COLOR=0000CD]http://www.aviagen.com/assets/Tech_Center/BB_Resources_Tools/Hatchery_How_Tos/08HowTo8EggTurningEN.pdfhttp://www.aviagen.com/assets/Tech_...ols/Hatchery_How_Tos/08HowTo8EggTurningEN.pdf[/COLOR][/COLOR]
Also [COLOR=0000CD]SEE HEREhttp://books.google.com/books?id=BJ...nepage&q=turning incubation days 1-10&f=false for DETAILED Scientific explanations of WHY TURNING IS IMPORTANT![/COLOR]
HUBBARDS GUIDES: [COLOR=0000CD] http://www.hubbardbreeders.com/managementguides/Incubation guide (english).pdf[/COLOR]

WHAT FACTORS ARE IMPORTANT FOR EGG TURNING?
Frequency of Turning, Angle of Turning, Smoothness/Gentleness of Turning
SIGNS OF TURNING INADEQUACY
Increased Deaths
Malpositions
Sticky Chicks due to unabsorbed Albumen

The effects of turning during a critical period for turning, from 3 to 7 days of incubation, were also recorded. Generally, failure to turn eggs retarded growth of the area vasculosa. Turning during the critical period stimulated the extent of growth of the area vasculosa by day 7 of incubation and of subsequent embryonic growth by day 14. Incubation at low temperature resulted both in reduced expansion of the area vasculosa and retarded embryonic growth in a pattern similar to that observed for unturned eggs. It is suggested that turning stimulates development of blood vessels in the area vasculosa via localized increases in blood pressure.

We were able to demonstrate that it is critical to turn eggs for at least the first three days of incubation and better for the first seven. READ MORE HERE and HERE
Only add room temperature eggs to your incubator to prevent SWEATING. Sweating/Condensation weakens the egg's natural defense mechanisms, providing an ideal environment for the growth of bacteria and penetrated through the shell pores and kill the embryo. Eggs can be laid on their sides or placed in turning tray with pointed end down/big air cell end up. For shipped eggs, please refer to [COLOR=FF0000]SHIPPED EGGS section of this article.[/COLOR]​
Mark eggs, using a pencil, with an X on one side and an O on the other. Make sure to turn the eggs at least 3 times a day, or odd number of times. [COLOR=000000]Turning by hand they should always be turned an odd amount of times and move them to a different part of the tray to protect them from temperature variation. You basically roll the eggs with your fingers/palm from X to O. It is important to NOT ROLL the eggs in the same direction every time. Improper rolling can cause the chalazae that holds the yolk in place to tear.[/COLOR] Turning the egg prevents the embryo from touching and attaching to the membrane inside the egg. The most convenient way to turn eggs is to purchase an egg turner. [COLOR=FF0000]Take extra precautions [COLOR=000000]when turning eggs during the first week of incubation. The developing embryos have delicate blood vessels that rupture easily when severely jarred or shaken, thus killing the embryo. [/COLOR][/COLOR]​
[COLOR=FF0000]When adding Eggs the temperature will immediately drop. DO NOT ADJUST THE THERMOSTAT, or risk accidentally cooking them. Wait 2/4 hours and if the temperature is still low, make a small adjustment, as small as you can. (Note: Small adjustments on the manual Styrofoam incubators make BIG changes!)[/COLOR]​
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[COLOR=FF0000]REMINDER THAT YOU MAY BE ENTITLED TO REIMBURSEMENT[/COLOR]​
[COLOR=FF0000]OF DAMAGED SHIPPED EGGS[/COLOR]​
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[COLOR=FF0000]CANDLING & WEIGHING EGGS[/COLOR]​

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[COLOR=000000][COLOR=FF0000]Sites to refer to for Candling Images and Videos[/COLOR][/COLOR]​
[COLOR=000000]Progression Though Incubation[/COLOR]​
[COLOR=000000]Great pics of CANDLING and good and bad eggs.......[/COLOR]​
[COLOR=000000]Metzer Candling :[/COLOR]​
[COLOR=000000]Development of a Chick:[/COLOR]​
[COLOR=000000]Candling Pics:[/COLOR]​

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[COLOR=FF0000]Understanding the Air Cell[/COLOR]​

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The average chicken egg has thousands of pores running through the shell allowing the embryo to exchange oxygen, carbon dioxide and water. Soon after an egg is laid, a small air bubble or “air cell” forms in the large end of the egg from water loss. Humidity levels in the incubator determine moisture evaporation during the 21 days of incubation and hatching. The air cell is crucial for the chick to break out of the egg shell at the end of the incubation period. The chick can drown if the air cell is too small or the chick may be retarded in growth if the air cell is too large. This is why maintaining the proper humidity is crucial. [COLOR=FF0000]Slightly lower humidity levels are more likely to be less disastrous than slightly higher humidity levels.[/COLOR]​
[COLOR=FF0000]MARKING and OBSERVING[/COLOR] the size of the air cell is a way of checking for correct weight loss of the egg and is commonly used. However, this can be inaccurate due to the different, types, shapes, and ages of eggs. The protrusion of the embryo into the air cell also may effect observations. Again, it is the most common method for non-commercial hatchers. With experience you can adjust your humidity as needed by visual inspection of air cells. However, Weighing is the MOST accurate. [COLOR=000000]If the incubation humidity is too low (very dry conditions), the air sac will be larger than normal and the humidity in the incubator should be increased to reduce the rate of water loss. If the air space is smaller than normal then the opposite applies.[/COLOR]​
[COLOR=FF0000]Track the air sac with pencil tracings when you candle,[/COLOR]​
[COLOR=FF0000]On the 7, 14 & 18th days[/COLOR]​
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[COLOR=FF0000]WEIGHING EGGS[/COLOR]​
Chicken eggs need to lose 13% moisture over 21 days, NOT day 18 lockdown. Weigh all the eggs on the first day, before you put them in the incubator and weigh again days 10, 14 & 18. [COLOR=000000]Several formulas can be used to determine the rate of weight loss or overall per cent weight loss and to correct the humidity if the values are off.[/COLOR] For accuracy, a digital scale should be used which can weigh in grams. Don't forget to subtract the weight of the container holding the eggs from the total weight when calculating the average egg weight. If you use a rack to incubate your eggs it is best to weigh the entire rack instead of each egg to get an average. If you are incubating [COLOR=FF0000]SHIPPED eggs upright in a carton you will also weigh the entire carton so that the eggs are not disturbed.[/COLOR]​
Some Explainations from cochins1088 on weighing Eggs!​
[COLOR=333333][COLOR=000000]Eggs should lose approximately 11% - 12% of their mass at 18[SUP]th[/SUP] day of incubation. To monitor mass loss, a person must keep track of an egg’s weight. Optimally eggs should be weighed right after they’re laid, but this isn’t always possible. When eggs are shipped, weigh them as you remove them from the package. Keep in mind that the eggs will lose some of their mass during storage. According to Aviagen, eggs lose about 0.5% of their[/COLOR] masses per week in storage.[/COLOR] [COLOR=333333]How to Calculate Mass Loss[/COLOR] [COLOR=333333]First subtract the current weight of an egg from the original weight of the egg. This number will give you the weight loss. Then take the weight loss and divide it by the original weight of the egg. This will give you the fraction of weight that was loss. Lastly, multiply the fraction of weigh loss by 100. This will give you the percent of mass loss. [/COLOR] [COLOR=333333]For example:[/COLOR] [COLOR=333333]Original weight (50 g) - Current weight (45 g) = Weight lost (5 g)[/COLOR] [COLOR=333333]Weight lost (5 g) divided by Original weight (50 g) = Fraction of weight lost (0.1)[/COLOR] [COLOR=333333]Fraction of weight lost (0.1) multiplied by 100 = Percent of weight lost (10%)[/COLOR] [COLOR=333333]For those of you who incubate large numbers of eggs, you can weigh the trays to find the average mass of each egg.[/COLOR] [COLOR=333333]For example:[/COLOR] [COLOR=333333]If a tray weigh of eggs initially weighs 700 grams and the empty tray weighs 200 grams, than the eggs must initially weigh 500 grams. If there are 10 eggs in the tray, then each egg weighs approximately 50 grams.[/COLOR] [COLOR=333333]Let’s say that 2 eggs are removed because they were infertile.[/COLOR] [COLOR=333333]After 18 days, your tray weighs 560 grams. If you subtract the weight of the tray (200 grams), than the eggs must weigh 360 grams. There are 8 eggs in the tray, so each egg weighs approximately 45 grams.[/COLOR] [COLOR=333333]With this example, the eggs lost 10% of their mass by day 18.[/COLOR]
[COLOR=0000FF]WHY to MEASURE WEIGHT LOSS IN EGGS, [/COLOR]
MEASURING PROCEDURES (HOW TO), HOW TO CALCULATE, and HOW to interpret RESULTS
[COLOR=005CB1]http://www.aviagen.com/assets/Tech_Center/BB_Resources_Tools/AA_How_Tos/AAHowto1WaterLossEN13.pdf[/COLOR]
[COLOR=000000]For formulas used to determine the weight loss please refer to[/COLOR]​
Weight Loss Determinations:​

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[COLOR=000080]Note: Kitchen scales work great. The WeighMax Pocket Mini CD Digital Scale below works great if you weigh individual eggs. I pasted an egg carton cup firmly to hold the eggs. Be extremely careful not to tip your scale and crack your eggs![/COLOR]​
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[COLOR=FF0000]CANDLE EGGS[/COLOR]​
[COLOR=3366FF]DAY 1[/COLOR]​
Always wash hands before handling eggs.​
The shell of an egg is thin and opaque when held near a bright light. The easiest type of egg to candle is the white shelled egg and some of the hardest eggs to candle are dark brown eggs, like the Maran eggs pictured below.​
You could try two or more flashlights to see into them!​
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[COLOR=FF0000]Candle days are 1, 7, 14 & 18[SUP]th[/SUP] day[/COLOR]​
You will need a Candler, bright light, LED flashlight or build your own Candler. Find Instructions [COLOR=0000FF]HERE[/COLOR]. [COLOR=0000FF]https://www.backyardchickens.com/a/how-to-make-a-homemade-egg-candler-using-common-household-materials[/COLOR]​
Turn on your Candler and shut off the lights in the room so it is dark, evenings are best. Hold the flashlight/Candler like the image below and set the egg air cell/fat end down on your hand. This will prevent any light leakage from the flashlight. Your hand protects the egg from the hard surface of the light and helps more of the light to go through the egg.​
[COLOR=FF6600]CAUTION: Be very careful when you handle the egg[/COLOR]​
[COLOR=FF6600]so you don't accidentally crack it or DROP it![/COLOR]​
Slowly & gently rotate the egg until you can see inside the egg. On Day 1 candling you will mark air cells and check for cracked or porous eggs. Lightly mark the air cell with a pencil. Candle quickly if the light gets hot, you will kill the embryo. On Day 1 candle you will NOT see much inside the egg but you may have a glimpse of yolk moving as you gently rotate lightly colored eggs.​
[COLOR=222222]Chicken Embryo Development, views from the Inside AND Out. *Graphic Photos**[/COLOR]​
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[COLOR=FF0000]CANDLES AND EGGTOPSY[/COLOR]​
Porous Egg​
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TINY Sappy spots possibly due to Rough Shipment of EGGS​
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Day 11 candle funky air cells from shipped eggs.​
BLOOD RINGS clearly visible on light polish eggs​
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Saddle Shaped Air cell, where it dips on two sides​
BLOOD RINGS clearly visible on light polish eggs​
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Note the pictures below on day 10​
The two on the right have “scrambled” contents from shipping​
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[COLOR=FF0000]CANDLE EGGS[/COLOR]​
[COLOR=3366FF]DAY 7[/COLOR]​
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When you Candle on day 7 there should be some light blood vessels surrounding it and you may see the embryo move. See above and below video. My favorite time to candle! Eggs that are clear should be re-candled at 10 days before tossing. If your not sure and it doesn’t smell leave it! If your egg is colored or a brown egg, it is harder to see through the shell, you may want to wait a few days and try again. Or find a better candler. You can see the large round yolk move inside the egg, this is NOT the embryo at day 7! Its just the yolk!​
It IS ALIVE!!!! Video below day 7 Candle​
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[COLOR=FF0000]CANDLE EGGS[/COLOR]​
[COLOR=3366FF]DAY 14[/COLOR]​
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It will begin to look pretty dark in there! Look for movement.​
You should again see some good veining. ​
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THIS is a video of a CANDLE at DAY 14!​
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[COLOR=FF0000]CANDLE EGGS[/COLOR]​
[COLOR=3366FF]DAY 18 & LOCKDOWN![/COLOR]​
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Candle day 18 is to determine growth, weigh, pencil mark air cell size and dispose bad eggs. It will look pretty dark and FULL in there! You may or may not see movement on this candle. Its ok if not, don’t panic! The chick may easily be resting! See how that air cell is beginning to dip more to one side and if you lay the egg down it will roll into the hatching position. I set my eggs with lowest dip in the aircell up. This position for hatching is good so the chick is able to turn into position and I can easily see my pips too! Day 18 laying horizontal for actual hatching helps a chick hatch 1-2 hours earlier. I lay my eggs down LOWEST DIP of the AIRCELL UP! This is the normal and most likely hatching position and the chick will break through or Internally pip and externally pip in that probable area. See the image below with the x, x being lowest dip in air cell and probably pip area/s.​
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[COLOR=FF0000]LOCKDOWN![/COLOR]​
Stop turning, Remove Turner and Raise Humidity to 65% - 70%​
depending on what your air cells may still need​
[COLOR=008080]NOTE: It is now known that the different embryos communicate with each other by a series of clicking sounds,[/COLOR]​
[COLOR=008080]the rate of clicking being the important feature. Ensuring the eggs on the hatching trays are in contact with each other facilitates[/COLOR]​
[COLOR=008080]the synchronization of hatching where the eggs are incubated in a modern machine. This assists in reducing the time between when the first and last chicks hatch.[/COLOR]​
After Day 18 candle you will “LOCK DOWN” your eggs. Lower the temperature see suggest temps below and increase the humidity the last three days. STOP turning and the incubator stays closed, for the next three days while the chicks hatch! If you’re having a hard time with humidity it is OK to open quickly to boost, add warm water or increase the size of the pan or add a wet sponge. [COLOR=FF0000]NEVER ADJUST HUMIDITY BY cutting back airflow.[/COLOR] VENTILATION is EXTREMELY important at this stage!​
Researchers have found that lowering temperatures will prolong incubation,​
HOWEVER it is favourable to do so at the end of incubation. ​
[COLOR=FF0000]Day 19 & 20 Temp Min 98.0 Max 98.5[/COLOR]​
[COLOR=FF0000]Day 21 Temp Min 97 Max 98.0[/COLOR]​
for more information please refer here: PAGE 42​
[COLOR=008080]A REALY GOOD READ[/COLOR]​
[COLOR=008080]on what that chick is doing in that egg at this time![/COLOR]​
[COLOR=333333]Development of motor patterns in avian embryos:[/COLOR]​
[COLOR=333333]hatching behavior http://www.int-ornith-union.org/files/proceedings/durban/Symposium/S46/S46.1.htm[/COLOR]

A GOOD IDEA FOR SOME STYROFOAM INCUBATORS
COVER THE BOTTOM WIRE GRATE with A SMALLER TYPE OF SCREENING
CHICKS can get broken legs in these large sized wire grates
EXAMPLES Window SCREEN, or DOLLAR store rubber Shelf mat with the holes
see below:
[COLOR=000080]Note: foam grip drawer mat on the wire bottom of incubator on day on day 18 lockdown. A cloth, crinoline, or paper towels could work as well. This ALSO protects the navel, the place where the abdomen closes after surrounding the remains of the yolk, from injury. It also makes cleaning the incubator easier. NO the wire on the incubator bottom should not injure or effect your chicks after they hatch. Dollar store baskets are great to keep hatching chicks separated by breed.[/COLOR]​
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[COLOR=333333]VIDEO : Early day 19 INTERNAL PIP[/COLOR]​
[COLOR=333333](shipped initially loose air cell, set after 12 hours and turned upright in the cabinet cooler incubator right from set)[/COLOR]​
[COLOR=333333]Silky embryo in position for hatch and with internal pip (NOTE: NO EXTERNAL YET!) [/COLOR]​
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[COLOR=000080]Note: foam grip drawer mat on the wire bottom of incubator on day on day 18 lockdown. A cloth, crinoline, or paper towels could work as well. This ALSO protects the navel, the place where the abdomen closes after surrounding the remains of the yolk, from injury. It also makes cleaning the incubator easier. NO the wire on the incubator bottom should not injure or effect your chicks after they hatch. Dollar store baskets are great to keep hatching chicks separated by breed.[/COLOR]​
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[COLOR=FF0000]PREPARE BROODER:[/COLOR]​
Prepare everything you need for them once they have hatched.​
Now is the time to do final checks on brooder, heat lamp and feed.​
See bottom of article for links on chick care.​
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Click on the link below for Brooder Ideas!​
Rocking Egg Video! ​
Eggs can rock for several days before hatcing, but how exciting it is!​
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[COLOR=FF0000]Understanding The Hatching Process[/COLOR]​
[COLOR=333333]Between the 15th and 16th days, the chick orients itself so that its head is near the air cell at the large end of the egg. Not long before the chick is ready to attempt to make its way out of the shell its neck acquires a double bend so that its beak is under its right wing and pointed toward the air cell.[/COLOR]​
[COLOR=FF0000]21 DAYS is just a baseline for hatching eggs.[/COLOR]​
[COLOR=FF0000]Many chicks can take 23 - 25 days![/COLOR]​
[COLOR=FF0000]Some pip internally and fully hatch in hours while others will be 24 hours or more.[/COLOR]​
Egg movement! Eggs can “Rock n Roll” days before they are due to hatch!​
The initiation of hatch occurs partially from the increased carbon dioxide level in the egg. This process causes the embryo to begin twitching it's muscles allowing the inner shell membrane to be punctured by the egg tooth. The chick then begins breathing the air in the air cell. Using its egg tooth, it pecks at the shell thousands of times and after a few hours the chick pips a small hole through the shell and begins to breathe air directly from the outside. [COLOR=FF0000]After the chick has made a hole in the shell, it stops pipping for 8+ hours sometimes up to 24 hours and rests.[/COLOR] During this time, it is acclimating its lungs.​
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[COLOR=333333]In regards to opening and closing the bator to remove already hatch chicks; It is important to remember that chicks can go [COLOR=FF0000]3 days[/COLOR] [COLOR=333333]without food/water. It is better to wait for the remaining chicks to hatch to insure reducing the impact to unhatched pipping eggs.[/COLOR][/COLOR]​
[COLOR=333333]But my new chick is running around in the bator knocking eggs around![/COLOR]​
[COLOR=333333]LET THEM GO! DO NOT OPEN THE INCUBATOR! They are fine![/COLOR]​

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MONDAY 5 PM noticed external pip
[COLOR=B42000] [/COLOR]

TUESDAY DAY 20 9AM STILL RESTING,
hole slightly larger but chick is NOT zipping!
[COLOR=005CB1] [/COLOR]



2 PM TUES. CHICK IS ALREADY OUT!
missed the last quick zipping!
Silky on the left, two CCL hatched at the same time!
[COLOR=005CB1] [/COLOR]
ITS IMORTANT TO NOTE:
THIS CHICK TOOK WELL OVER 24 hours to hatch! and absolutely normal!
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[COLOR=000000]Oh NO![/COLOR]​

[COLOR=000000]It PIPPED the WRONG END![/COLOR]​

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[COLOR=000000]MALPOSITIONS[/COLOR]​
It is common to lose about 1-2% of the chicks due to deformities and malpositions. Deformities occur during embryo development, while malpositions occur the last week of incubation. Malpositioned embryos are unable to pip the eggshell and escape due to improper positioning within the egg. The chicks can have difficulty positioning for pipping, absorbing the yolk sac, or changing from embryo to chick breathing air. The majority of malpositioned embryos that have died in the shell probably resulted from exhaustion and/or lack of oxygen. One GOOD thing to remember is that SOME malpositions are Lethal and some are not! Occasionally, malpositioned chicks will hatch unassisted but the hatch does need to be monitored closely to ensure that the chick is not becoming stressed, or stuck. Often as a result of the position in the shell they have been unable to absorb all of the yolk. Please refer to Navel SECTION BELOW.​
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[COLOR=333333]Common reasons of Malpositions are:[/COLOR]​
[COLOR=333333]Eggs are set with small end up.[/COLOR]​
[COLOR=333333]Advancing breeder hen age and shell quality problems.[/COLOR]​
[COLOR=333333]Egg turning frequency and angle are not adequate.[/COLOR]​
[COLOR=333333]Inadequate % humidity loss of eggs in the setter.[/COLOR]​
[COLOR=333333]Inadequate air cell development, improper temperature and humidity regulation, and insufficient ventilation in the incubator or hatcher.[/COLOR]​
[COLOR=333333]Imbalanced feeds, elevated levels of mycotoxins, and vitamin and mineral deficiencies.[/COLOR]​
[COLOR=333333]Lower than recommended temperatures in the last stage of incubation.[/COLOR]​
[COLOR=333333]Normal hatching position and the six recognised malpositions Images:[/COLOR] [COLOR=333333][COLOR=374574]http://www.thepoultrysite.com/articles/1608/investigating-hatchery-practice-examining-the-hatch-debris[/COLOR][/COLOR]​
[COLOR=000000]ASSISTING MALPOSITIONED CHICKS.....[/COLOR]​
[COLOR=FF0000]When to assist?[/COLOR]​
[COLOR=000000]Assisting a chick should be your LAST RESORT[/COLOR]​
[COLOR=FF0000]PLEASE READ the following ARTICLE[/COLOR]​
[COLOR=FF0000]BEFORE you try to assist a chick![/COLOR]​
[COLOR=FF0000]Step By Step Guide[/COLOR]​
[COLOR=FF0000]to Assisted Hatching:[/COLOR]​
[COLOR=000000]She HATCHED! But what's with her butt?[/COLOR]​
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If there is slight bleeding at the navel use corn starch or a dab of cold water to stop the bleeding. You can also swab the umbilicus area with a 1% solution of Betadine and place the chick back in the bator to dry. If you do see this and the chick is already out of the shell dangling with this, use a clean sterile scissors to cut through them, DO NOT PULL as you can harm the chick’s navel!​
[COLOR=FF0000]But only the cords![/COLOR]​
[COLOR=FF0000]DO NOT CUT IF THERE IS UNABSORBED YOLK SACK!![/COLOR]​
Please see HOW TO TREAT & PREVENT yolk sack infections!!​
click on in the link below​
Below is a photo of a "Duck in a Cup" waiting for its yolk sack to finish up!​
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3 Essential Chick Care Tips (pasting up and Cord info)​
YES this CHICK MADE IT through with proper Care!​
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And this one MADE IT! Say Hello to "Yolk"​
Yolk, a WONDERFUL Story of a Chick that stopped pipping midway and ended up having a yolk sack rupture and a bunch of other issues! It is well worth a read and "Rock" has all the footage to boot!​
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[COLOR=FF0000]Links for additional information[/COLOR]​

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What Went Wrong During Incubation
Why break out and analyse hatch debris?
[COLOR=005CB1]http://www.aviagen.com/assets/Tech_...os/05HowTo5-BreakOutandAnalyseHatchDebris.pdf[/COLOR]
Procedure for breaking out hatch debris Common MalPositions IMAGES HOW to Analyze Possible causes of Hatch Debris Embryo Mortality

[COLOR=005CB1]http://www.slideshare.net/HenryArts/pas-reform-academy-2012[/COLOR]
High Humidity ~ cause read page 36
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Trouble Shooting Failures with Egg Incubation​
Hatchability Problem Analysis​
Troubleshootting Incubation​
This is also a great pdf with pics: paste link in browser search:​
Eggtopsy: What happened to my egg?​

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[COLOR=2F4F4F][COLOR=800000]"Shrink wrap" vs. "Sticky chick"?[/COLOR][/COLOR]​
[COLOR=333333]Signs of Deficiency in the Embryo[/COLOR]http://books.google.com/books?id=bb...7-2 Signs of Deficiency in the Embryo&f=false
WHY MEASURE CHICK YIELD? • Chick yield (the weight of the chick at hatch as a percentage of egg setting weight) is a simple method of checking whether hatch timing and incubation parameters are correct.
[COLOR=005CB1]http://en.aviagen.com/assets/Tech_C...atchery_How_Tos/02HowTo2MeasureChickYield.pdf[/COLOR]

New Chick Care Links and Info​
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How to Spot Problems of Newly Hatched Chicks​



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[COLOR=333333]
[COLOR=B22222]GROW GEL / FEED Newly hatched chick! [/COLOR]​

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[COLOR=333333] WHY I always add little soda caps full of grow gel when my first chick is fluffed in the incubator. [/COLOR]​
[COLOR=333333]Does it do anything? I thought they had the yolk! [/COLOR]​
[COLOR=333333]
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DIP THE BEAK OF THE CHICK IN THE WATER BEFORE YOU TURN IT LOOSE in the brooder. A taste of water right away helps them to find more water soon. If your chicks are at all stressed, add about 3 tablespoons of brown or table sugar to each quart of water for extra energy. Most baby bird loss is caused because the bird doesn't start to eat or drink. Never let your bird run out of water. http://odysseyranch.com/Chick Care Tips.html​
Homemade Electrolyte Recipe for weak/ill chicks 2 C. Water 2 TBL. Brown Sugar, honey or molasses 1/2 tsp Salt 1/2 tsp. Baking Soda​
Mix until all dry ingredients dissolve & Keep refrigerated​
You could also use electrolyte drinks Gatorade or Pedialyte, or​
3 drops of POLYVISOL (liquid childrens A-B-D vitamins)​
Slowly drip along inner edge of lower beak.​
How To Raise Baby Chicks​
[COLOR=000000] Raising your chicks[/COLOR]​
[COLOR=FF0000]Dont forget to have Sav-A-Chick
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Electrolyte and Vitamin Supplement on hand![/COLOR] AND ITS CHEAP at TSC its Balanced electrolytes supplement for newly hatched and adult chickens, ducks, turkeys, and other domestic poultry. Fortified with vitamins A, D3, E, C, K, B1, B2, B3, B5, B6, B9 and B12. Convenient, single-use packets each mix into one gallon of drinking water. Use during hot weather or other stress to support optimal hydration and bird health. JUST IN CASE you have a weak bird! OR You can add sugar to the water in the first couple of days.​
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WRY NECK / Torticollis​
Wry neck is a condition in which the baby chicks head or hangs it sideways or tilts backwards, causing it to be off balance and fall over. Sometimes chicks can be weak and fall over but if its tilting of head back is causing toppling its typically wry/crooked neck.​
Torticollis is a symptom from different illnesses. Marek's disease, a possible vitamin deficiency in magnesium, vitamin E, thiamine, avian encephalomyelitis or listeriosis, food poisoning/botulism, heavy metal/lead toxicity, Fungal aspergillosis, ear infections, and head injuries with some vulted skull breeds.​
Vitamin Deficiency-Induced Neurological Diseases of Poultry​
AWESOME links here!​

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Vitamin E with Selenium, Water Soluble Multi Vitamins plyvisol NO IRON, Probiotics & Electrolytes, Prednisone,Bayer Brand Baby Aspirin​
MASSAGE, Vit B, Vit E, Selenium​
help them get out of their twist!​

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[TD] [/TD]​
Some causes of EARLY CHICK MORTALITY ~​
[COLOR=E3BA5C]
[COLOR=0000CD]Vitamin Deficiencies in Backyard Chicks and Chickens [/COLOR]​

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[COLOR=E3BA5C]
[COLOR=B42000]http://networkedblogs.com/Unsff[/COLOR]​

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Chick in a babyfood container to help "bring legs" together​
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[COLOR=990002]CHICKEN ORTHOPEDICS[/COLOR] [COLOR=990002]~[/COLOR]​
[COLOR=000000]Curled[/COLOR] [COLOR=000000]Toes[/COLOR]​
Understanding Splayed Legs and incubation distress that easily leads to splayed legs​

This condition has been associated with high humidity during incubation, but the results of our research indicate that higher temperature conditions during the last phase of embryo development may have a bigger impact. Splayed legs are also observed when newly hatched chicks are placed on slippery floors.

[COLOR=005CB1]http://www.worldpoultry.net/Breeder...tress-easily-leads-to-splayed-legs-WP009251W/[/COLOR]​


Culling ~​

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Small Animal Euthanasia at Home http://www.alysion.org/euthanasia/index.php​
[COLOR=B45F06]Medicine Chart for Chickens & other Poultry[/COLOR]​
Sexing Chicks ​
[COLOR=008080]Learn CPR: Save A Bird’s Life[/COLOR]​
CPR can save a bird’s life in the correct circumstances, so learn how to perform CPR on your bird with these tips.​
VACCINATE!​
SmallScale Poultry Flocks Resources​
a PDF Filled with Informative links to EVERYTHING POULTRY!​
BYC BEST LINKS!​
[COLOR=800000]FINISHED ~[/COLOR]​
[COLOR=800000]SANITIZE EQUIPMENT & PAT YOURSELF ON THE BACK![/COLOR]​
A few Cool Videos!​
THIS is a video of a CANDLE at DAY 10!​
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Day 13 Duck Candle below​
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[COLOR=B22222]Everyone is MORE than WELCOME to come join the Incubation thread with us![/COLOR]​
you can find us here...​
Just pop in and say hello and what your plans are in the bator!​
Experienced Hatchers also needed to help out with the growing demand for help with incubating!​
Its not just for shipped eggs! Its awesome, most check daily and are there to help and support!​
Disclaimer: Please note this information is offered as friendly advice only and, whilst I have made every effort to ensure it is accurate, I can not be held responsible if it proves not to be useful in your case!​
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A little fun compliments of my friend Oz!​
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175x400px-LM-4a3e464a_350x700px-LL-6a3e6ab6_101_5001_crop.jpeg
My new Avy Created by my friend cochins1088 from BYC,​
How cool is that!​

[COLOR=008080]"BE NICE OR LEAVE"[/COLOR]​

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[COLOR=008080]is our motto here[/COLOR]​

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