INCUBATING w/FRIENDS! w/Sally Sunshine Shipped Eggs No problem!

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HOW many people have turkeys that aren't thawed through? mine is still freezing!!!

HOW much does your turkey weigh?

WHAT MAKE MODEL AND BREED IS YOUR TURKEY?
Our turkey should be thawed, it's been sitting out the last two days, so I doubt it's still frozen. Not sure how much it weighs, but probably around 15 Lbs.
It's a Standard Bronze Tom we harvested earlier this year.
 
We are doing 2 Turkey's from a local farmer that are already thawed and Pekin duck breasts that are from my own flock.
I would also be doing duck if I would have found some "french white scovy eggs" to hatch my father has this picky taste and must have a specific duck
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Mine is still solid according to DH. I will let in soak in a hot tub (aka kitchen sink) all day while I make pies. 24+ lbs. Butterball. Homegrown heritage next year.

I have friends who don't eat meat. They have tofurkey. I have not tried it. The first year (of many) she made it, she called and asked my opinion. It is this little meatloaf size thing and said it serves 12 to something. I said that was because everyone only needed a tiny bit....oh no, that's plenty for me. Lol
tofurkey
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i will never understand those that wish not to eat meat still want things to represent it
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oh well leaves more for me!

we have a 20lb butterball premium allllllllll natuuuuuural
whatever that means now adays




Mine were never frozen, they were harvested Friday.

3 Bourbon Red hens, 8 pounds each. Two will be traditionally oven roasted, and one roasted in a wood fired oven.
sounds wonderful!!!!
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I am certain your table and home is certainly one that people cherish @WalnutHill
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I tried to keep humidity around 70%, sometimes when I got back home from work, it had dropped to 60% & had to be raised. I didn't open the incubator during lockdown except when I took the 5 chicks out ( 1 had been in there for 48 hours the others 24 hours) ( 1 was drinking the condensation off the bator window ). But because I had put some in a day (or it might have been 2 days ) after the originals possibly opening the bator to quickly grab out the chicks might have messed things up. I didn't think my air cells look exceptionally low and the chicks seem to be average in size, a couple of them I would even say are on the smallish side ( the white one and the all black one that was last to hatch).
It is odd to me that only 2 of the green eggs actually hatched because those looked really good going into lockdown ( I couldn't really see well into the blue eggs & all but 1 of them hatched;and the brown egg that looked good didn't do anything either). I haven't done eggtopsies yet, but plan to do them today to see what was up.

oh, another thing that is probably important, I kept smelling a funky smell during most of the incubation ( last have of it anyway), but when I candled none of the eggs smelled like they had gone bad... I am making sure to extra clean the bator incase it just wasn't cleaned well enough after the last use. I use bleach water to clean it, but...
gotcha! awesome to do the eggtopsies! it helps you try to figure out what could have gone wrong. esp when you first start

Our turkey should be thawed, it's been sitting out the last two days, so I doubt it's still frozen. Not sure how much it weighs, but probably around 15 Lbs.
It's a Standard Bronze Tom we harvested earlier this year.
thats what I thought oh well I do it every time nothing new.....
 
Thank you, good info! I'd want to hatch eggs or even let a hen go broody each year...

I have about 8 acres but unfenced in Bob cat coyote fox dog cat snake werewolf country. Lol jk on the werewolf but dang we have every other predator like crazy.

Id like them to go up in a coop at night and in the yard in the day, heck probably build them a run like the chickens...

Narris and other heritage turkeys will roost in trees. 20 feet up if they have branches they can hop between, like in a row of trees. So they will be pretty safe from ground predators at night, but during the day they are out foraging.

They do fine in a big covered pen. Hen turkeys want to go find a hiding place to nest, so if you build a hay bale and tree branch pile inside they should be just fine. They can do an eight foot vertical leap so be sure there are no tree branches over the pen if it's not covered or they'll be out in no time.
 
If you just want some chicks my hens are still giving me between 6 and 9 eggs a day. They will be mixed and some will be olive eggers but you won't have the stress of shipped eggs. I travel to Rathdrum pretty often.


It's ok. I'm trying to get a couple breeds that I can breed and sell their chicks. I know that the stress and expense in the beginning is all part of starting up. Thank you though, I really appreciate the offer. I want to breed the brahmas and some of the orpingtons.
 
It's ok. I'm trying to get a couple breeds that I can breed and sell their chicks. I know that the stress and expense in the beginning is all part of starting up. Thank you though, I really appreciate the offer. I want to breed the brahmas and some of the orpingtons.


I think that is awesome. I want to get my hands on some silkied ameraucana eggs in the spring to hatch and breed. I can't decide if I want to replace some of my existing girls with them or if I want to try and sneak a second small coop onto the property....
 
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How to Prevent
Chickens from Getting Coccidiosis

A few good management practices will help control coccidiosis. Contact your veterinarian for full details.
  • Anticoccidial drugs mixed in the feed are used to limit high levels of infection.
  • Keep chicks, feed and water away from droppings.
  • Roost birds over wire netting if brooding arrangements make this possible.
  • Place water vessels on wire frames to eliminate a concentration of wet droppings, in which the chicks can walk to pick up or spread the disease.
  • Keep litter dry and stirred frequently. Remove wet spots and replace with dry litter.
  • Avoid overcrowding.
  • If coccidiosis does break out, start treatment immediately.


http://www.merckvetmanual.com/mvm/poultry/coccidiosis/overview_of_coccidiosis_in_poultry.html

http://www1.agric.gov.ab.ca/$department/deptdocs.nsf/all/agdex4616


typically alot of runs, and lethargy, blood in the poo, sometimes blood doesnt show in the poo, death. you can take a sample of poo to the reg vet and they can check it too for about $15. as the chickens get older they build ammunities to them just like puppies do, they have a vaccine you can give chicks if you order them or you can give yourself, but I dont know much about that vaccine. or you can just have some sulfa meds/corid on hand if you are going to hatch and grow out chicks alot and if you see anything odd treat them, the med is an antibotic. you can research it.

I keep a sulfa product from jeffferslivestock.com
called SMZ-Med™ 454 this on hand





Soluble powder containing 100% sodium sulfamethazine per packet.
Add 2 Tbsp to each gallon of drinking water of chickens for the control and treatment of infectious coryza, coccidiosis, acute fowl cholera, and Pullorum disease and turkeys for coccidiosis.
Treats bacterial pneumonia, bacterial scours and E. Coli in swine.
Treats cattle for bacterial pneumonia (BRD), shipping fever, foot rot, calf diphtheria, and acute mastitis.


http://www.jefferspet.com/products/...84af9fa2600f00000499/533884af9fa2600f0000049c

Quote:
The vaccines above can actually cause some lesions and occurrence of coccidiosis in birds because they are not “attenuated” or weakened in some way. It is a controlled occurrence, but it may be necessary to treat for secondary gut disease, using antibiotics or alternatives such as probiotics. In contrast, coccidiosis vaccines used in Europe are attenuated. They are altered because the coccidia used in the vaccine are designed to mature quickly and have a short (“precocious”) life cycle and low fertility. They are not pathogenic – disease-causing – and are more costly to produce than the nonattenuated vaccines. They include Paracox
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, Livacox
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, and Viracox
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which are marketed in other countries but not currently in the U.S.

More types of vaccines are likely to be developed, because the government approval process is much cheaper for vaccines than for anticoccidial drugs.

Since immunity is species-specific, anticoccidial vaccines include mixtures of species of Eimeria that affect chickens. It is especially important to include the three types that cause the most damage in chickens: Eimeria acervulina, Eimeria maxima, and Eimeria tenella.
Using Vaccines

Birds need good protection by the time they are three weeks old, so vaccines should be given at the hatchery or by one week.
It is important to apply vaccines uniformly to ensure the birds get equal exposure.
Methods of application:
  • Spray cabinets: These are used at hatcheries on day-old chicks and may include a dye to indicate application. This is the most uniform method of application, resulting in 90 to 95 percent of chicks exposed to the vaccine. (Chapman, 2000)
  • Edible gel: Gel pucks are placed in transport crates or on the floor of the house when the chicks arrive. The gel is brightly colored to attract the attention of the chicks. Immucox
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    is administered in this form.
  • Feed spray: Vaccines are mixed with water in a garden pressure-sprayer and sprayed on a 24-hour supply of feed. Advent
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    is either sprayed on the feed in this manner or applied in a spray cabinet at the hatchery.
  • Drinking water: The chicks should be slightly water-starved to encourage them to drink. Since oocysts are heavy and fall to the bottoms of drinkers, they are mixed with a suspension agent to keep them evenly distributed. (Chapman, 2000) This method can be used for older chicks. Vaccines cannot be given through proportioners or nipple drinkers.
To confirm the method of application, check the tag. For example, Coccivac
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is given to turkey poults by spray cabinet at 1 day old; feed spray at 1 to 3 days old, and via drinking water from 3 to 14 days old.

It is important to apply vaccines uniformly to ensure the birds get equal exposure. If birds receive too much of a nonattenuated vaccine, the parasites can cause lesions. If attenuated vaccines are not given in adequate doses, the birds will be susceptible to field strains of the coccidia. (Chapman, 2000)

The environment must allow the oocysts to sporulate, since the goal of vaccination is to introduce the parasite in small numbers. Litter should be damp but not wet. (Chapman, 2000) After vaccination, birds excrete fresh oocysts onto the litter. Birds then eat these (second cycle) oocysts. (Chapman, 2000) Two cycles of replication are needed for good protection.

Vaccines are usually sold only in large amounts. Advent is sold in 1,000-dose vials that cost about $13.50 each and must be purchased in boxes of 10 vials per box. Immucox can be purchased in smaller amounts. A tube of gel costs about $70 and has 28 “slices.” Each slice serves 100 birds. Half tubes can also be purchased for about $35.

Since the vaccines contain live oocysts, they should not be frozen. Birds need access to their droppings in order for the vaccine to work, since oocysts must be reingested. Vaccines are not effective for birds raised in batteries or cages with wire floors.

Chick and Chicken Vitamins HAVE SOME ON HAND post #61039
Fecals can be done at home, which might be an option for some: https://www.backyardchickens.com/t/1047614/doing-fecal-floats-at-home
From Penn State Poultry Health Handbook
http://pubs.cas.psu.edu/freepubs/pdfs/agrs52.pdf


If possible, zoom in on macroscopic lesions
http://cdn.backyardchickens.com/6/6c/6cf9ae39_IMG_1745.jpeg



Quote: CLICK HERE FOR SLIDES AND INFO http://cal.vet.upenn.edu/projects/parasit06/website/lab2.htm
 
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while I am sitting with Misty

I am going to go back to last Thursdays post go through and update links to posts with info to save in that notes stuff and add your silly gender ages to post 2 if I can still edit it. oh and all the new friends too
 
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