INCUBATING w/FRIENDS! w/Sally Sunshine Shipped Eggs No problem!

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Well, I now know how to make an adult scream or cuss depending on the adult. Put down your cane and tough it out doing chores come in sit down to ice it, fall asleep for two hours and then try to even set it on the ground much less stand. I am really excited to try getting up in the morning.
Thanks for letting me gripe.
Have a great night
 
What about your car?
400
 
I love this thread at 3AM. No annoying new posts while I'm trying to answer a question.

Short, and hopefully easy question for y'all. Consider all other issues ideal, does a chick need to be able to move the egg shell to zip, or does it turn inside the shell to zip?
It turns in the shell day 18+.
Normal position after 19 days is: Head at large end, head to the right under right wing, beak toward air cell, feet toward head and embryo aligned so its long axis is the same as long axis of egg.

Malpositions can be from a variety of causes.
eggs set small end up or horizontal
high or low temperature
high humidity
improper turning
old breeders
round or very large eggs
nutritional deficiencies (vitamin A or B12)
egg handling prior to incubation
retarded development (for many reasons)

I had several malpositions in my last hatch. My cabinet was out of commission and I used a LG with horizontal positioning and perhaps not enough turning.


Really want to build an incubator just need to do a lot of reasearch
Go for it. You can modify it later when you determine what works and what doesn't.
Your first one is a prototype. The second one will be nearly perfect.

You need 2 goats for milk and you are fixed !
Can't. After a long battle to get chickens legalized, I'm now allowed 85 chickens and 5 roosters. (I think I saw 9 today but technically some are cockerels) I'm ready for that battle in court.
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According to the ordinance, no other poultry/livestock allowed unless I had 5 acres and then I could have horses.

Goats will have to wait for the move to the slopes of a volcano in Costa Rica.

Here are some beds with chicken pasture planted flanked by a bed with cool season crops.


After the meat birds moved in.



Yeah, I didn't know what to expect; never given them pineapple before.
Mine got cantaloupe seeds and rinds today.
The pineapple tops are way too coarse. They don't even like mature grass. It is just too fibrous and doesn't have much nutrition to it.

Baby pigeon picture:



-Kathy

Now that is an ugly critter. No wonder they hide them in nests.

Of course the same applies to other birds that are beautiful as adults.











That's what's to love about chickens. They're ready to fend for themselves right out of the egg.
It's similar to the comparison of a newborn opossum or rabbit as opposed to a newborn antelope. However, all the mammals need milk so need a mother whether or not they have fur and can run when they're born.

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I know I'm gonna ruffle a lot of feathers with this comment. Why insult one group of people, when I can insult two with a single sentence! Ready? That bird is so ugly, it's even uglier than a Show Girl.
That's the best laugh I've had today.
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It also has a swollen head, which I've seen many times in peachicks, but never in chicken chicks. Anyone know what can cause this?


-Kathy
Swollen head is a nutritional deficiency. Most likely selenium or vitamin E.
It is known as exudative diathesis caused by oxidation of various tissues creating increased capillary permeability due to a deficiency of those vitamins and minerals.
http://www.thepoultrysite.com/disea...lacia-exudative-diathesis-muscular-dystrophy/
http://www.avpa.asn.au/veterinarian-support/exudative-diathesis-selenium-deficiency/

This is the reason I cringe every time I read about people wanting to mix their own feed so their birds will get "healthier food". Not gonna happen.

IMHO, after temperature, humidity and adequate turning - breeder nutrition is the primary cause of hatchability and chick vitality issues.

Now I'm on a soapbox and this doesn't apply to you but just a general comment. When adding things to poultry diets over a complete ration, make sure it is adding nutrition, not diluting. Scratch dilutes nutrition. Even fruits and vegetables, if making up a significant portion of the diet, can dilute complete nutrition. While nutritious in their own right, there's not an appreciable amount of essential amino acids in fruits and vegetables.
Regular feed, whether layer, grower or all flock is adequate for egg laying but not necessarily for hatchability. I'm saying this because when I look outside, there is very little forage and no bugs alive this time of year, so they can't supplement with what they can find. There isn't any nutrition in snow so those of you that live in mild climates with succulent greenery and bugs year round - this doesn't necessarily apply to you.
There are breeder rations (which I haven't found at most feed stores, TSC, Farm&Home, Rural King, etc.) which are formulated with boosted vitamins, minerals and essential amino acids. I used to get one from our currently defunct feed co-op. Ideally, the breeder ration should start a month before collecting eggs for incubation.
Without current access to a breeder ration, I make fermented feed with a mix of all flock and layer feed, some fishmeal, kelp and flax. I give a poultry vitamin/mineral supplement in the water once or twice a week.
That's just me. Y'all do whatever you please.


HOW I PERSONALLY SHIP EGGS AND THE REASONS BEHIND IT ALL

ALWAYS REMEMBER YOU ARE THE CUSTOMER REQUEST HOW YOU WANT YOUR EGGS!!!

This will become an article at some point, I didnt get images yet, but I will and add it.... I have been asked three times today for the same info so here it is unfinished but the words are there to explain the missing images....



The most important thing is no older than 2 days hatching eggs. When you get older than that the air cells and PH are different as is sizes/grades of air cells.



grade AA is a fresh to two day air cell. The bigger the air cell the more it can wiggle and jiggle loose, air cells upright because of course gravity will want that air cell to head the opposite direction.


Packing air cell up in a priority mail box so that the eggs remain upright! NEVER in a rectangle/long box like a shoe box that will be stacked all different ways.
I get these free usps the small one is the inner box and the bigger is the outer which still falls under the 12x12 box size for lower shipping rates.
If at all possible never ship more than 16 eggs in a box, the weight itself will damage the eggs. If someone orders 2 dozen its always best to ship separate despite extra costs. I always suggest this and so far everyone chooses to separate because of the expensive breeds they order. the stickers are to close the eggs up in the bubble wrap




Here is where I am gonna throw in some of my Sally Sunshine
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Most people will say leave the ends open on the bubble wrap the egg needs to breathe!!!
NOTTTTTT roll that sucker up in there and use those stickers to keep it all in that plastic!


SOOOOO in the smaller box, scrunch up a bit of bubble wrap to support the bottom of the eggs. place a plastic bag from the groc store open in the box over the bottom bubble wrap... place eggs bubble wrapped AIR CELL UP next to each other in the box, and shove more bubble wrap around to keep them tight from movement, you dont want any air space that the eggs can move, add more bubble wrap on top of the eggs and knot the plastic bag shut. add more bubble wrap or now you can use newspaper to be sure that inner box is solid and full with no room for movement, tape lid shut.




in the bottom of the large box, open up a lightweight styro egg carton and lay it in the bottom, set your egg box on this egg carton cattycorner as seen above in the image.

then tape lightweight egg cartons closed and cut in half and shove in each side to prevent movement, if you must you can add newspaper also. I find the inner box doesnt move much if at all in this position. as you can see, its protecting the inner eggs and its not letting those hits to the outer corners of the big box to damage the inside box.

then open another styro egg carton and lay on top of the box and it should fit tightly and perfectly closed, tape the box well



then on all four sides of the box in BLACK I put thick arrows pointing up......

marking the sides

FRAGILE
SYRUP IN GLASS


(because what mail person wants to clean up that mess on a machine or in their truck?)

The same goes on the top as well as DO NOT XRAY and then the shipping label and if they want held

"PLEASE HOLD FOR PICK UP AND CALL 210-222-5565" the customers number they gave you if they want held.

if you use ice or heat packs, see what I was saying about the air flow in the outer box? adding heat packs or ice packs this way doesnt harm the inner eggs but has a good space to keep them as you want them.
I love the arrows and syrup idea. That can work.
I also agree that the eggs don't need oxygen. Actually they're better off completely cut off from ambient air.
I don't mark eggs other than how the customer requests. If they want them marked 'FRAGILE, LIVE EMBRYOS', I'll do so. If they want them marked, 'HATHING EGGS', I'll do so. Otherwise I don't mark but may start using your syrup idea.
Once when I put LIVE EMBRYOS on the box they wanted me to pay for Express Shipping because there were 'Animals' in the box. The express shipping cost would have been more than I got for the eggs, packaging and shipping together. I got out of it by convincing her that eggs were not live animals but EGGS!!!!

IMO, unless one pays additionally for special fragile handling, the package will rarely see human hands. I once applied for a programming job at the USPS. That job is akin to what happens at a brewery canning facility or any other high speed manufacture or sorting operation. Most of the time from acceptance to destination, those packages spend an amount of time on conveyors passing scanners, dropping into bins or on trucks, planes or buildings. 95% of the time, the package won't see human hands or human eyes see it except at the accepting office or the destination office.

Here's how I ship eggs.
I use the priority boxes that are just a bit bigger than my foam shippers. I reinforce the boxes with more corrugated board and any additional space gets packing peanuts.















The foam shippers are pricey but have great success and are a little less time consuming.

.... I cant account for usps handling, unless I ship in a wooden box. that wont happen..... I cant control the workers at USPS

of course!
See above

Ok, has Amazon started delivering packages with drones yet? If they have that might explain my issue.... I decided to try the horizontal watering nipples . I ordered 2 different kinds. I got one package January 3rd or so, the other package showed it was delivered on 12/28. So, I clicked on the tracking. Seems MY order was delivered to MORGAN, UT 84050.... problem is, I live in California.....

Somebody in Utah got a package that they probably have NO IDEA what it's for.
..
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I've used 3 types of nipples and 2 types of drinker cups.
The one you pictured is my favorite of the 5 but can't handle freezing temps. For winter, I switch to horizontal nipples.
There is another drinker cup with a float that keeps the cup full and works well for baby chicks.
There are at least 2 types of vertical nipples. One is all stainless steel and made to go into PVC pipe. It won't work in buckets because the plunger/seal aren't captive and the chickens push it into the bucket and the bucket empties.

Can anyone help me.what if I can't mark the air cells.
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What if I am not able to mark the air cells.
I don't mark or care to. It isn't necessary. Commercial hatcheries don't mark air cells. That's for people that are obsessed with hatching.
No real offense intended to anyone here.
Set them, turn on the turner, periodically check temperature and humidity and forget them till at least day 18.
The only thing I usually write on the eggs are rooster #, hen #, date laid and weight. If I have my crap together, the egg only gets an egg number and all the other info goes into a spreadsheet.

I neve mark my air cells CH I think it is more a matter of preference . what you like to do if your hatching a few no big deal .If your hatching a lot its very time consuming . up to you how you lock down the egg is the most important thing .
X2
I'm still torn on weighing since it is so time consuming. Eventually, I may be able to afford a high dollar hygrometer electronically tied into my humidifier.

I have to train my self to resist staying on the byc all the time . addictive you know .
So true.
I'd probably be done with all my chores without this place.

If you convince yourself that you'll have a hard time in life, you certainly will. That's called a defeatist attitude, and it'll tear you down. You've got to be determined not to let a disability beat you. You have two hands, even if one or both of them don't work perfectly. There are lots of people in this world that don't even have hands. They learn to compensate. They find other ways to do whatever they want to do. I've seen video of people who don't even have arms, but are successful commercial artists. I know of a lady named Joanie Erickson who was paralyzed in an accident. She taught herself to paint by holding the brush in her teeth. There's always someone who's worse off than you are.
This is one of the best thing's you've written (among many).
I have a great friend, known to some as the 'coop fairy'. She is brilliant, has 2 successful businesses and is constantly depressed. Your last statement is what I tell her. Think of all the people in Syria that have lost everything minding their own business and just trying to escape with their lives. Or the soldier that was blown up by an IUD before the US decided to start armoring humvees.
You move on because you can't change the past.
I guess I'll never understand depression.
Just like I'll never understand boredom. However, that's because I never spent more than one night in jail.

What's wrong with Mondays? I like Mondays.
It was Monday?

Where did you find a good thermometer and hydrometer?
Thermoworks is one of my favorite places to get precision instruments at a wide range of prices.
http://www.thermoworks.com/products/low_cost/
http://www.thermoworks.com/products/humidity/

OK....I was wrong.....I was wrong once before
I made a mistake once.
I bought a pencil with an eraser on it.

I've got them all. Powerstrokes, Duramaxs, and Cummins. Doesn't matter. Biggest POS's are the GM's. City folk trucks.
I'm not a diesel expert but I had a Detroit diesel in a Ford F700 bucket truck for a few years recently. No glow plugs.
I wish I would have done more work with it around here before I sold it.

Best truck I ever owned was an '89 GMC Sierra 3/4 ton extended cab...traded a TWH mare for it.
Best truck/trucks I've ever owned were Fords with the 300 cubic inch in line 6. Indestructible power train whether automatic or manual. I've had about 8 of them - both F150 pickups and E250 cargo vans.

After many Ford vehicles, I still loved my Saab 900 Turbo convertibles.

Quote:
Time for me to turn in, too
Whoever's left, have fun
Hasta luego
Vaya con Dios!
 
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